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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I already posted this in DIYMA, but then I though that here much more people work with honda, so I would like to give it a shot.

The reality is that If you are here probably you already worked with OEM HUs from Honda, I would like to know how noisy was your install and how you wire it. I ask because I have a Honda Accord 8th gen OEM HU (premium, without navy) wired to an audison bit ten DSP.
I am really happy with the work from my installer, the before and after the bit ten is very noticeable, I think he did a good job tuning the DSP. However, before the DSP I already had some noise and a slight alternator whine, after the DSP those are less noticeable probably due to amp gains re-tuned, but the noise still there. The amps are always turned on when car is running, independently of the HU, because the remote is wired to the ignition key, but the noise only is noticeable when the volume is over "01". When the volume is 00, I can't hear any noise, the noise stays at the same volume always, so when I listen to a moderate volume is almost unnoticeable. The noise is there with the car on or off, but the alternator whine obviously only with the engine working. Maybe I can live with that small quantity of noise in my system, but if there is a way to eliminate it I definitely want to try.

The bit ten is connected directly to the OEM HU, but I am not sure what of the three available channel available (+,-, and shield) were tooked to be connected to the DSP.

Any advice?

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Some extra info:

1st setup used a LOC and connected after the OEM amp, no noise, but without flexibility to tune.
2st setup aftrmarket amps connected directly to the HU, noise appear but sound better, it seems the LOC was blocking some frequencies.
3st setup DSP connected to the HU before the amp, sound, stage, etc. improve a lot, but some noise and alternator whine remains.

For the three configurations the same RCA was used, it only was connected differently in each opportunity.

The first thing I would like to verify is if we took the good pair of wires to get the signal from the HU, I am not sure what I should choose from the 3 available in the harness (+,-, shield)
 

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When I installed my amp on my 9th gen, I had alternator whine. I installed a LOC between the HU speaker outputs and the amp. The alternator whine went away, but I still have a slight hiss. I only hear it when idling and the radio is off, so no huge deal. I had to unplug my ANC module so the amp did not resonate the signal. Other than that, I'm not sure if there is a way to completely eliminate the hiss. I'm guessing the signal from the factory HU is just a dirty signal that is cleaned up mostly by a LOC or a processor, but not completely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well something unusual at least for me is that when HU is off or at 0 volume, there is no hiss or alternator whine although the volume in the DSP is not zero and the amps are always ON, because the remote is wired to the ignition key. My thought is that if the noise is induced somewhere in the wiring, then the hiss should be present always that the amp is ON, but I am not an expert, so probably I am forgetting something. But as soon the volume go from 0 to 1, the hiss start, its note very very bad, I probably can live with it, but if there is a way to dissapear it I want to try.

What about this kind of products?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5262_PAC-SNI-1.html
 

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It is the active noise cancelation. pull the wire from the back of the head unit or disable it on your factory headunit diagnostic menu. Unplugging the ANC mics are not enough to disable it with some 8th gen accords. The later option does not stay disabled and you have to re-disable it every time you start your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the suggestion, I will try it and report back as soon as I go to my car. I only disconnect the MICS in this car, so worth trying
 

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I’d check your grounds as well. Make sure you’ve grounded your battery to the transmission (Adding another ground) Check your RCA wires. I’ve used RCAs from the car installation kits and the noise they pic up is unbelievable. Also, I would not bolt down your amps to bare metal. Ground loop hum can be a serious PITA to resolve without purchasing ground loop isolators. But it can be fixed. In-line power conditioners are useless in my opinion.
 

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1st setup used a LOC and connected after the OEM amp, no noise, but without flexibility to tune.
2st setup aftrmarket amps connected directly to the HU, noise appear but sound better, it seems the LOC was blocking some frequencies.
3st setup DSP connected to the HU before the amp, sound, stage, etc. improve a lot, but some noise and alternator whine remains.
1st: Not ideal, and I avoid it if possible, since the factory amp does signal processing. You get a purer signal straight from the HU, instead of attenuating a post-amp signal.

2nd: Which amps? Some amps have balanced differential inputs; some don't. Amps with BDI's will work directly with the factory radio. Otherwise you'll get noise. I had a 2011 Accord, had Alpine PDX amps going straight to the HU outputs. No problem whatsoever.

3rd: Again, if nothing in your chain is specifically designed to reduce the whine from balanced outputs, it will remain in your final output sound.

DIYMA has many threads for amp recommendations. I used to hang out there a LOT, when I had time and money. Now, I have neither :grumpy:

TLDR- what amps and DSP are you using.. it will go a long way to solving your problem.
 
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