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Discussion Starter #1
I just got done ordering all the parts needed for my speaker system upgrade and subwoofer install. The subwoofer system I went with was an Alpine PWE-S8 Restyle Compact Powered 8-Inch Subwoofer. This will be mounted in the trunk near the space where the stock sub would have been installed. The dimensions are: 13.5” L x 9” W x 3” D and I have already measured the area and found a good mounting spot between the 2 rear deck speakers. More to come...

Main Parts List:
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1x Alpine Electronics PWE-S8 Restyle Compact Powered 8-Inch Subwoofer
4x Infinity REF-6522EX Reference Series Shallow-Mount 6-1/2"
4x Infinity REF-275tx 135W Reference Series Textile Car Tweeters, 3/4"
Pair Front / Rear Speaker Adapters + Speaker Connector Harness

Misc Parts List:
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Sponge Neoprene Stripping With Adhesive 5/16 Inch Wide X 5/16 Inch Thick X 30 Feet Long
BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit
 

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You're planning to put the sub below the rear deck trim piece? Are you planning on using sound dampening material like dynomat or sound skins to prevent vibrations on the bare metal? Also are you going to use a
LOC for the sub? or are you just going to use the high frequency signal from the rear speakers? Keep us updated on the install.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You're planning to put the sub below the rear deck trim piece? Are you planning on using sound dampening material like dynomat or sound skins to prevent vibrations on the bare metal? Also are you going to use a
LOC for the sub? or are you just going to use the high frequency signal from the rear speakers? Keep us updated on the install.
Great questions. For the mounting location, I have attached a pic as reference. Not really sure as yet if I will be using sound dampening material. The plan was to use the Neoprene sponge strip on the mounting points of the sub to avoid metal to metal contact. No LOC will be used. I will be utilizing the high speaker inputs on the sub supplied from the left and right rear speakers. Not looking to go overboard. Just a clean practical setup.
 

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Very nice layout. I was considering putting my compact sub under the passenger seat, but this layout makes it very easy to keep everything in one spot without having to run speaker wires throughout the car. Let us know how the sub sounds in the trunk! Thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Very nice layout. I was considering putting my compact sub under the passenger seat, but this layout makes it very easy to keep everything in one spot without having to run speaker wires throughout the car. Let us know how the sub sounds in the trunk! Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, its easier since the rear speaker wires are across from each other. I have just got done with the sub woofer install. Turned pretty good. I will have to disconnect the ANC because I'm getting feedback from the sub when driving. The hardest part of the install is removing the panels and trims in order to get the rear deck out.

I was able to get the constant +12v and ACC 12v from the fuse box under the dash. These add-a-circuit was used.

Slots 26 and 27 are available for constant +12v. I used slot 26 for my constant +12v and slot 5 for ACC 12v remote.

These side pieces have to be removed in order to remove the rear deck.

Rear deck removed.

Sub mounted.

Outside from the back glass showing the bolts for the sub.


Sub volume knob mounted.

Used a 3/8" wire loom conduit for the power cables and sub volume knob wire.

Sub powered on.

Tapped into the rear speaker adapters for the sub left and right input.



I still have not reinstalled the rear deck because I am working on getting the tweeters installed. Tomorrow, I will be swapping the front speakers and tweeters and also disconnecting the ANC.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is how I modified the OEM tweeter housing to accept the infinity tweeters. With a little soldering, I am able to keep the stock connections plug and play.

OEM Tweeter with the front cover removed.

Removed the capacitor and modified the front cover.

The infinity tweeters installed in the OEM housing. 3M plastic glue was used to hold them together.

Front view.

Side view.
 

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Very nicely done! :notworthy :thmsup: Im not looking forward to taking the panels off, but it has to be done! Did you modify and cut out the factory component speakers from the frame to fit the aftermarket ones? Ive seen youtube vids were they did this on a Civic and it looks factory. I see you used the accessory fuse box for the remote turn on, but it sounds like you used it to power the sub as well? I saw your components list show the power wire kit to be wired to the battery? Just curious on how you did it.

How loud are the vibrations coming from the rear deck? Would you recommend sound dampening material to dampen them? Awesome job!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Very nicely done! :notworthy :thmsup: Im not looking forward to taking the panels off, but it has to be done! Did you modify and cut out the factory component speakers from the frame to fit the aftermarket ones? Ive seen youtube vids were they did this on a Civic and it looks factory. I see you used the accessory fuse box for the remote turn on, but it sounds like you used it to power the sub as well? I saw your components list show the power wire kit to be wired to the battery? Just curious on how you did it.

How loud are the vibrations coming from the rear deck? Would you recommend sound dampening material to dampen them? Awesome job!
Thank you. I am sure this will help out a lot of people looking for a better sound quality without a huge investment in sound equipment. There is no going around the panels. They have to come off, trust me I tried. There was no modification done on the front and rear speakers. With the 6 1/2 speaker adapters and speaker wire adapters, its 100% plug and play. Slot 26 was used for constant +12v and slot 5 accessory for remote. Its a small sub and the fuse box was fine for me but if you choose to go directly to the battery go for it.

Note: I was not impressed with how the sub sounded after the install. But, after I disconnected the ANC behind the glove box, the sound quality is now night and day. So, disconnecting the ANC is a must. I am now getting more depth and less shallow tones as before. The sub woofer is definitely what our sport have been missing. The balance is just right, not heavy and not soft. You can feel the bass but its not obnoxious were its vibrating everything in the car. I bought some sound deadening material but never needed to use it.

Final stages of soldering up tweeters to the OEM connectors.


Tweeter Installed back into the trim piece.

Zip tied the tweeter wires to the existing wire harness.

Rear deck tweeters mounted and deck ready to be reinstalled.

In order to remove the front door covers, you will need to remove this screw. The rest are all clips.

Front comparison of the Infinity speaker vs OEM.

Rear comparison of the Infinity speaker vs OEM.
 

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Thanks for the pics and the explanations for panel removal. I am doing this next week for a complete sound system overhaul.
 

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Thanks for the pics and the explanations for panel removal. I am doing this next week for a complete sound system overhaul.
You got it. Also, if you don't have some upholstery/trim tools I would strongly recommend this kit. It made the whole process easier and I was able to remove and reinstall all the panels without damaging a single clip. Good luck and let us know how its goes :smile.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice work. I did something similar with the tweeters but didnt modify anything from the stock tweeter. Just used hot glue.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
You also zip tied around the housing to help hold the tweeter in place. This is a great alternative for someone not looking to do any soldering. The only reason I had to solder was because I wanted to keep the connections plug and play. Great job!
 

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Yeah, the zip tie was useless. I was trying to get the zip tie to hold it in place through the mount holes, but didn't held at all. So glue gun here we come. Used the infinity tweeter mout glued to the factory mount so the tweeter is fully removable, just in case.

Did you use the factory wiring to the tweeter housing? I rewired everything with the amp/dsp install, so none of the factory wiring was used, other than to feed the dsp.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for posting this!

I didn't realize that the Sport 1.5T doesn't come with upgraded sound in the US. It has the same system as the Touring in Canada (which still needs upgrading, badly). I was initially confused as to why you weren't mounting the sub in the original sub area.

Anyway, learned a lot just looking through this thread and the images you were kind enough to post.. Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the write up! I'm a first time Honda owner and love everything about the car --- except the sound. Couple of noob questions if you don't mind:

Why not just put that compact sub under the passenger seat? Not enough room?


Was there a big difference replacing the 6.5" 's? Or was the bulk of the improvement from the sub?

Would it be possible to use something like a dremel and cut out where the sub would go (as on the Touring trim)?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah, the zip tie was useless. I was trying to get the zip tie to hold it in place through the mount holes, but didn't held at all. So glue gun here we come. Used the infinity tweeter mout glued to the factory mount so the tweeter is fully removable, just in case.

Did you use the factory wiring to the tweeter housing? I rewired everything with the amp/dsp install, so none of the factory wiring was used, other than to feed the dsp.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Oh, you have a dsp in place. Where did you mount it and the amp? I used factory harness. Only replaced OEM speakers and tweeters and added a sub.


Thanks for posting this!

I didn't realize that the Sport 1.5T doesn't come with upgraded sound in the US. It has the same system as the Touring in Canada (which still needs upgrading, badly). I was initially confused as to why you weren't mounting the sub in the original sub area.

Anyway, learned a lot just looking through this thread and the images you were kind enough to post.. Thanks!
Yeah, the pics paint a great picture as to what was done. As for the sub location, I really didn't want to dremel out the mounting hole for the 8" sub. Thats is why I went this route.


Thanks for the write up! I'm a first time Honda owner and love everything about the car --- except the sound. Couple of noob questions if you don't mind:

Why not just put that compact sub under the passenger seat? Not enough room?


Was there a big difference replacing the 6.5" 's? Or was the bulk of the improvement from the sub?

Would it be possible to use something like a dremel and cut out where the sub would go (as on the Touring trim)?
1. Great question, there is not enough space under the seat for any thing much. I measured the space and it was around 5" from the AC shroud to the rear floor. On the driver's side that is.
2. Just having 6.5" and tweeters alone made the audio system sounded more premium. The sub helped to fill the void of lack of bass. But I will be making some changes to my setup soon...:wink
3. At first I was looking into doing just that, but I didn't want to deal with lying in the trunk on my back dremeling a hole out of the sheet metal. It can be done, just takes a bit more time and patience.
 

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I installed a 5 channel amp with a sub in the trunk and the DSP under the shifter. The signal comes from the factory harness with the speaker adapters and new wiring from the amp to speakers.

Still fighting with the DSP. Windering how DSP owners pick a house curve, tune to it and call it a day. It sounds so flat and harsh after tunning that make the default settings sound tuned.



Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Install Questions

The signal comes from the factory harness with the speaker adapters and new wiring from the amp to speakers.
I haven't taken delivery of my car yet, but I've been doing a lot of (very) preliminary research. What adapters are you using that allow you to grab sound from the factory harness (without any cutting/splicing I'm assuming?). And secondly, was running the speaker wire into the doors as simple as it sounds or did you have to fight through any molex connectors or anything else special.

Still fighting with the DSP. Windering how DSP owners pick a house curve, tune to it and call it a day. It sounds so flat and harsh after tunning that make the default settings sound tuned.

Have you considered (or tried) using an RTA to get a feel for exactly what is going on in the cabin when all of the levels are flat first? I bought a pretty cheap one on Amazon on my last vehicle to help adjust for cabin imperfections and get a truely flat response, and then made small changes that suited my ears. Its a process, but just picking a curve may not give you what you're looking for.


Thanks.

Long first post I guess?
 

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1. Great question, there is not enough space under the seat for any thing much. I measured the space and it was around 5" from the AC shroud to the rear floor. On the driver's side that is.
2. Just having 6.5" and tweeters alone made the audio system sounded more premium. The sub helped to fill the void of lack of bass. But I will be making some changes to my setup soon...:wink
3. At first I was looking into doing just that, but I didn't want to deal with lying in the trunk on my back dremeling a hole out of the sheet metal. It can be done, just takes a bit more time and patience.

Makes sense! I just ordered most of the same things you had in your guide (minus tweeters, and the speakers you l
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I installed a 5 channel amp with a sub in the trunk and the DSP under the shifter. The signal comes from the factory harness with the speaker adapters and new wiring from the amp to speakers.

Still fighting with the DSP. Windering how DSP owners pick a house curve, tune to it and call it a day. It sounds so flat and harsh after tunning that make the default settings sound tuned.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Thanks for the pics. There seems to be a lot of space below the center dash. But from seeing those clips and screw holes I take it wasn't that fun getting all the trims and panels off. Great job! The DSP might require an audio analyzer so you can see each outputs coming out of the DSP. Otherwise you are adjusting it by ear. Do the think it would be easier going with a LC2i or LC7i? Their controls seemed to minimal.
 
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