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I've been slowly piecing my system out for my '15 EX-L 7 speaker and finally close to having it installed...

I'm replacing the fronts with a pair of Kenwood Exceleon XR1700's, a pair of Kenwood Exceleon KFC-X174 in the Rears, 1 Kicker (44VL7S122) 12" L7 Solo-Baric L7S in a Kicker ported box, and powered by a Kenwood XR900-5 5channel amp... I'm keeping the factory head unit to maintain the MID screen...

The question I'm asking is ... is there a way to splice the wire from the factory subwoofer and feed that to the amp and into the 12" Kicker sub and maintain the control of the sub from the factory head unit ???? I dont want to have to install a bass knob...

The shop I was planning on taking it to ... already said it couldnt be done. And the guy was talking all snobbish; so they lost my business already....
 

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My only concern is how you plan on getting a signal to the Kenwood amp. You can pull the signal from the HU/before the factory amp, or you can pull it after the factory amp.

The factory touchscreen HU puts out a differential balanced signal to the factory amp, but I don't see where the Kenwood amp accepts that type of signal, nor does it say it accepts high (speaker) level inputs. If you want to pull the signal from the radio, you'll have to get an amp that accepts differential inputs. There should be several options at or slightly above $500 (Alpine PDR-75, JL Audio RD900/5, Kicker CX 5 channel, etc). That way you can tap into the outputs from the factory HU (skipping the factory amp altogether).

The other option is to get an integration processor/dsp that will take the signal from the factory amp and output a clean, unprocessed signal. The first option is cheaper as I haven't seen one for less than $350.

I use the Fix-86 to feed a JL Audio RD900/5. It takes the factory amplified signals and converts them into front, rear and subwoofer preamp outputs. As far as the bass knob, I'm glad I bought one. I kept the factory HU so I could maintain the factory "sound settings" (bass, treble, fader, balance & subwoofer). While they work as they did before, the factory HU's subwoofer control is downright pathetic. There is little difference between the minimum and maximum settings. I'm convinced that control was made purposely weak to protect the factory sub. Any aftermarket amp's bass knob will do a far better job.
 

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i have those same speakers (Kenwood) in my car and i'm very happy with them
are you controlling your sub thru your head unit or have a bass knob ???

My only concern is how you plan on getting a signal to the Kenwood amp. You can pull the signal from the HU/before the factory amp, or you can pull it after the factory amp.

The factory touchscreen HU puts out a differential balanced signal to the factory amp, but I don't see where the Kenwood amp accepts that type of signal, nor does it say it accepts high (speaker) level inputs. If you want to pull the signal from the radio, you'll have to get an amp that accepts differential inputs. There should be several options at or slightly above $500 (Alpine PDR-75, JL Audio RD900/5, Kicker CX 5 channel, etc). That way you can tap into the outputs from the factory HU (skipping the factory amp altogether).

The other option is to get an integration processor/dsp that will take the signal from the factory amp and output a clean, unprocessed signal. The first option is cheaper as I haven't seen one for less than $350.

I use the Fix-86 to feed a JL Audio RD900/5. It takes the factory amplified signals and converts them into front, rear and subwoofer preamp outputs. As far as the bass knob, I'm glad I bought one. I kept the factory HU so I could maintain the factory "sound settings" (bass, treble, fader, balance & subwoofer). While they work as they did before, the factory HU's subwoofer control is downright pathetic. There is little difference between the minimum and maximum settings. I'm convinced that control was made purposely weak to protect the factory sub. Any aftermarket amp's bass knob will do a far better job.
problem with all those 5 channel amps they dont put enough wattage to hit the sweet spot on the L7S solo baric compared to the kenwood... With is why I picked the amp because of the 75watt rms x 4 and 600watt rms x 1 @ 2Ω
 

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Depending on how you get the signal into the amp will determine if the OEM sub control will still work. Like ominae stated, your amp doesn't seem to accept balanced differential which is how the OEM H/U sends the signal to the OEM amp. This signal path is the preferred, and will give you up to 5 outputs depending on how you wire it. I tapped onto the signal wires before the OEM amp and can use the OEM sub control, though I don't because my processor also have a sub control and it's better to keep the signal side as high as possible.

If you choose to keep the amp that you have, you'll have to use some sort of LOC on the speaker side of the OEM amp. I would look into an Audio Control LC6i or LC7i.
 

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are you controlling your sub thru your head unit or have a bass knob ???
for my system, i have the Excelon components and coaxials being pushed by a 4 channel JL amp. my sub is a powered Rockford Fosgate under the driver seat. the sub has gain, low pass filtering, boost, etc controls on the box itself, but i do have a bass control knob that runs to the left of the dash, just under the Eco Button where there's a couple empty panels. i attached a picture below to show you where i'm talking about (not my car, i have a MT, but it will still give you an idea). i like having the control there, its easy to access, and visually it doesn't stand out.
 

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