[JohnNH]

Here is a step-by-step write-up on replacing the starter in a 2007 4CYL Accord. There were a few slightly non-obvious steps so this might benefit others going through the process for the first time.

Step-by-step starter replacement DIY (PDF file):

Mechanical – DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Accord Repairs

Posts about Mechanical written by John C

accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com

Here is a step-by-step write-up on rebuilding the starter in a 2007 4CYL Accord:

Rebuilds – DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Accord Repairs

Posts about Rebuilds written by John C

accordrepairsdiy.wordpress.com

DriveAccord member "JohnNH" thread on rebuilding the starter:
Starter Rebuild DIY

 

[Drew03Accord]

John, as usual, excellent instructions. I know the many extra hours it takes to document a job and post-editing. Much appreciated here. What symptoms were you getting that led you to diagnose starter failure?

 

[JohnNH]

Thanks Drew. It was the original starter at ~350k miles so I took it out to rebuild it -- and good thing I did, the brushes were down to a little over 1mm! (new = 11.5mm, service limit = 4.3mm). I will post the rebuild DIY once I finish putting it together -- it was pretty straightforward and the parts (brush set) is about $29 (for the OEM part). I put in a new plunger set as well (about $6) but the original plunger set looked fine. Amazingly, you can also get a brand new OEM armature for $24! (I just resurfaced the commutator on the original armature).

I didn't have any significant symptoms. There were two times when it was cranking and it seemed to have a very slight pause in the middle of cranking which made me wonder if it was starting to go. Also, it did seem slightly slower than usual when cranking (and the rebuilt starter does seem to crank faster, though I am not sure how much of that is my imagination or not...)

 

[chris918]

Thanks, I'm sure I'll be using this in the future.

Looks like more of a PITA than installing TL-S front sway bar with jackstands.

 

[Guardian10]

Just looking at the pictures. I'm glad that I have a V6. I don't have to do all of that. :grin

 

[Drew03Accord]

Thanks, I'm sure I'll be using this in the future.

Looks like more of a PITA than installing TL-S front sway bar with jackstands.

No... like the sway bar, you now have the instructions. But feel free to let everyone know how you busted it out all by your lonesome. :grin

 

[chris918]

No... like the sway bar, you now have the instructions. But feel free to let everyone know how you busted it out all by your lonesome. :grin

I took your method and added one step and made it 10x better

 

[AccordSam]

Thanks for this. I did the starter on mine a few months back and found quite a bit of misinformation online. People taking off the fuel rails, removing the rad fans, etc. Pretty sure I saw one or two videos where people took off the front bumper and radiator for extra room to work.

That lower bracket bolt was such a PITA, being right against the front motor mount, and the edges of the bracket being raised. (And not having a lot of tools.) Overall though, it was a very doable task and saved at least a couple hundred dollars in labor.

 

[BLCKFLSH]

Great job, very detailed. The fancy hose clamps and digital torque wrench made me feel like a caveman with my clicker, haha.

 

[I am Confused]

Thanks for the write-up. Very helpful.

 

[200366HFP]

Excellent write-up, I'll be doing this tomorrow night.

Its AMAZING what that SEARCH button can do!!

 

[t-rd]

Don't give away your old OEM starter, rebuild it with new solenoid and brush. WAY BETTER than aftermarket rebuild ones.

 

[200366HFP]

I have a line on a new one for $85. I won't be tossing the old one, if someone is interested in it.

 

[200366HFP]

Just thought I would add a pic for the 2003-2005 I4 guys - the manifold is configured slightly different for the vacuum line, its on the back of the manifold, not easy to see, but not hard to realize.

And, you can leave the coolant lines and throttle cables connected to the throttle body, and just tip the whole manifold to the side, out of the way as you can see I did.

Maybe 9 bolts, and a dozen or so connectors and hoses. That front starter bolt comes right out with a pipe slipped over the 1/2" ratchet (Not in pic). Then, for easier reinstallation of that bolt, be sure to clean off that last thread on the end of the bolt, it is exposed to the elements and makes for a tedious removal, but goes right in if you clean that thread off.

Hour and a half, done. Easy to do.

 

[chris918]

Just reused the intake gasket? Would you recommend that?

 

[200366HFP]

Just reused the intake gasket? Would you recommend that?

I actually put a new one in, because a friend of mine said it is a crush gasket and its cheap. I'm sure you could re-use it, but I did not.

 

[spiritof76]

I actually put a new one in, because a friend of mine said it is a crush gasket and its cheap. I'm sure you could re-use it, but I did not.

Is there anything typically added to the manifold gasket when installing it?

 

[200366HFP]

Is there anything typically added to the manifold gasket when installing it?

Nothing I'm aware of. Nothing in the service manual.

 

[Straight Drive]

I actually put a new one in, because a friend of mine said it is a crush gasket and its cheap. I'm sure you could re-use it, but I did not.

I don't think its a crush gasket but I think there is a black coating on it that produces the seal. Did the new gasket have a black coating on it? I just did this on my 4 cylinder and reused the old gasket, haven't started it yet but I think most of the coating was worn off the gasket. So I am probably going to take the manifold back off and use a new gasket.

 

[200366HFP]

I don't think its a crush gasket but I think there is a black coating on it that produces the seal. Did the new gasket have a black coating on it? I just did this on my 4 cylinder and reused the old gasket, haven't started it yet but I think most of the coating was worn off the gasket. So I am probably going to take the manifold back off and use a new gasket.

Did your old one have a little crinkle around the edges of the intake holes? Mine did - the new one comes perfectly flat. I'm not sure that black "coating" or what ever you want to call it is going to seal much if anything. It was totally dry.