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6th Gear
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had to change the controls arms on my 04 accord, and all was going well until the rear bolt snapped when I used a breaker bar that was rented from autozone. The compliance bolt didn't even budge with the impact wrench, but I got the bolt loose with the breaker bar. This sucks.....I gave up right when the rear bolt broke:dunno: I used PB Blaster and torched the damn bolt!
 

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Are you talking about the front lower control arm?

You have to start pre-spray every bolt involved a week before, this helps a lot.
 

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6th Gear
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I'm talking about the fronts.....well it's too late now. I'm taking it to the mechanics.

Are you talking about the front lower control arm?

You have to start pre-spray every bolt involved a week before, this helps a lot.
 

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Even if you spray the bolt going through the compliance bushing, you'll most likely still need to break the bolt. The key is to have spare bolts from Honda. There are posts from the past about this.
 

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Fear The Turtle!
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Never do suspension work without having spare bolts. Also, always expect to have to cut/drill a bolt out and spend all weekend on it. Just experience talking, I use lots of PB, heat, cold (follow heat with the upside down compressed air can), impact gun, breaker bar, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Any recommendations for DIY.....I have a drill and various drill bits.

Never do suspension work without having spare bolts. Also, always expect to have to cut/drill a bolt out and spend all weekend on it. Just experience talking, I use lots of PB, heat, cold (follow heat with the upside down compressed air can), impact gun, breaker bar, etc.
 

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Most cheaper shops should only charge an hours labor. I dont have all weekend and for the cost its worth it.
 

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Fear The Turtle!
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Any recommendations for DIY.....I have a drill and various drill bits.
Start small and work your way larger. It's a long painful process but I enjoy it. A corded drill is a must for power.
 

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I had to change the controls arms on my 04 accord, and all was going well until the rear bolt snapped when I used a breaker bar that was rented from autozone. The compliance bolt didn't even budge with the impact wrench, but I got the bolt loose with the breaker bar. This sucks.....I gave up right when the rear bolt broke:dunno: I used PB Blaster and torched the damn bolt!
Your talking about the arms with the cam-bolts for the toe adjustment right?

If so, not that big of a deal. Get a strong sawzall and make a cut between the ear on the rear subframe and the arm to cut the bolt. Then pry the ear of the frame outward a bit to drop the arm out. If you cant get it out than make another cut on the opposite side. keep the blade wet with wd-40 and make sure its sharp or youll be there forever. all these parts are short money. and the 17mm nut that holds on the opposite end almost never binds up or breaks. at least i havent seen one break yet.

Look on the bright side. Youll be able to get all 4 wheels aligned properly.
 

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oh and i forgot. Dont drill. The bolt broke becuase it is stuck withing the metal sleeve of the arm bushing. you need a new arm, camber bolt, camber washer, and nut. drilling is not how we go about it. This can be fixed in 10 minutes at my dealer. so im guessing an hour on ur back with a sawzall
 

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That sucks man. I did mine on an 06. Your car is two years older so I can see rust being even more of an issue.

Sometimes going to a professional is the only option.

Good luck.
 

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6th Gear
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, on top of that I got this Michigan weather that destroys the car....man it was so rusted. I tried using the diy method provided here (http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=162857)
The rear bushing bolt was so frozing that it just twisted off with all the torque used with the breaker bar....haha

I got quoted $250 for labor.....is this reasonable for replaced both lower front arms and stabilizer link?

That sucks man. I did mine on an 06. Your car is two years older so I can see rust being even more of an issue.

Sometimes going to a professional is the only option.

Good luck.
 

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Take it to a shop.

I bought complete arms with bushings already pressed in. I don't have all weekend to do this, plus if I'm already at a shop, I can get the alignment done right there. I don't have to wait another day to get alignment done.
 

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Fear The Turtle!
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oh and i forgot. Dont drill. The bolt broke becuase it is stuck withing the metal sleeve of the arm bushing. you need a new arm, camber bolt, camber washer, and nut. drilling is not how we go about it. This can be fixed in 10 minutes at my dealer. so im guessing an hour on ur back with a sawzall
Sometimes you need to. On my Pathfinders I had to use a combination of angle grinder / cutoff wheels, reciprocating saw, drill, and impact hammer to work off the bolt, nut, sleeve, etc. The user needs to determine which tool(s) are best for his project.
 

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this job can go both ways - juice or nightmare.

when seized I generally start with tightening the bolts excessively. this causes the bushing collar to seize up and the bolt inside to turn ever so slightly. after several attempts at this the bolt usually frees up.

sometimes it doesn't. this is when the torch comes out. I use an old license plate or cat heat shield to protect the trans or drive belt and melt the bushing and turn the bushing collar cherry red to again start with the tightening and loosening method. an impact gun helps here because usually the collar will spin with the rubber melted. sometimes vice grips are needed. generally this portion of the extraction process takes about 10 minutes. on your back you'll be dying here.

anyway, we don't replace the lower arms ever, unless bent. they are mostly solid metal and a solid re-useable part. we replace only the compliance bushings.

labor for compliance bushings and front sway bar links would run approx. 3.8 hours at our shop. so 3.80 x (hourly labor rate) = your cost (plus alignment if needed which is $139.95 here)
 

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this job can go both ways - juice or nightmare.

when seized I generally start with tightening the bolts excessively. this causes the bushing collar to seize up and the bolt inside to turn ever so slightly. after several attempts at this the bolt usually frees up.

sometimes it doesn't. this is when the torch comes out. I use an old license plate or cat heat shield to protect the trans or drive belt and melt the bushing and turn the bushing collar cherry red to again start with the tightening and loosening method. an impact gun helps here because usually the collar will spin with the rubber melted. sometimes vice grips are needed. generally this portion of the extraction process takes about 10 minutes. on your back you'll be dying here.

anyway, we don't replace the lower arms ever, unless bent. they are mostly solid metal and a solid re-useable part. we replace only the compliance bushings.

labor for compliance bushings and front sway bar links would run approx. 3.8 hours at our shop. so 3.80 x (hourly labor rate) = your cost (plus alignment if needed which is $139.95 here)
wait, have we been talking about compliance bushings this whole time? i thought we were talking about the arms in the rear that have to camber bolt/washer for the toe adjustment. if were talking about the front than i sure hope that kid doesnt listen to a word i posted before. LOL
 

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this job can go both ways - juice or nightmare.

when seized I generally start with tightening the bolts excessively. this causes the bushing collar to seize up and the bolt inside to turn ever so slightly. after several attempts at this the bolt usually frees up.

sometimes it doesn't. this is when the torch comes out. I use an old license plate or cat heat shield to protect the trans or drive belt and melt the bushing and turn the bushing collar cherry red to again start with the tightening and loosening method. an impact gun helps here because usually the collar will spin with the rubber melted. sometimes vice grips are needed. generally this portion of the extraction process takes about 10 minutes. on your back you'll be dying here.

anyway, we don't replace the lower arms ever, unless bent. they are mostly solid metal and a solid re-useable part. we replace only the compliance bushings.

labor for compliance bushings and front sway bar links would run approx. 3.8 hours at our shop. so 3.80 x (hourly labor rate) = your cost (plus alignment if needed which is $139.95 here)
HondaTechAV6, what shop are you at? i'm in chicago/ chicago suburb area
 

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Bernardi Honda. Natick MA. about 15 min west of boston. if i drive anyway.

I could be mistaken but i think we spoke a few times. are you the "engine ninja?" if so i tried your method with the civics. taking the accessories off in the car. It was an interesting approach.... but i ended up frustrated after the 6.5 7 hour mark cause i would have been running by then. just goes to show how differently we all go at a project. even from one tech to another.

whats your name bud?

chuck
 

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Sometimes you need to. On my Pathfinders I had to use a combination of angle grinder / cutoff wheels, reciprocating saw, drill, and impact hammer to work off the bolt, nut, sleeve, etc. The user needs to determine which tool(s) are best for his project.
Hey, if it works then its right. I personally wouldnt waist my time with a drill when i have a perfectly good acetyline torch, 3/4" gun, and $60,000 worth of other tools in my box next to my lift, but hey thats just how iv always done it.

Iv been using a magnetic inductor lately. it runs negative ions through...
ill stop there before i even bore myself. but it gets shit hot if its magnetic, but you can touch it to your hand and it wont heat it. its nice for cramped areas.

u at a dealer?
 
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