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I was trying to figure out which model I should go for and love everything that comes with the sport but I am a little worried about the lack of a sub. Looks like the EX-L upgrades to the nicer stereo (8 Speaker 180W vs 10 Speaker 450W). I am guessing an aftermarket sub on the Sport is going to be difficult. Anyone try it or have any thoughts?
 

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I have a 2.0 touring and the 400 watt system is lacking bass. The subwoofer is very weak.(this of course is my personal opinion) I will maybe replace all speakers
And back subwoofer or maybe just add an Inclosed sub. My hesitation is having to disable the noise cancelation feature. I’m just waiting to see what others do so I can see their outcomes and decide from there.
 

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2018 Touring 2.0T
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I agree. The factory sub in the Touring is weak. Over all, this system sounds ok, but if you want to crank it, you’ll be disappointed. #ItIsWhatItIs
 

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to me the speakers in the sport are weak as hell. I want to add a subwoofer eventually but have no idea as no one has brought this up. Don't know how hard it is exactly do integrate it.
 

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I was trying to figure out which model I should go for and love everything that comes with the sport but I am a little worried about the lack of a sub. Looks like the EX-L upgrades to the nicer stereo (8 Speaker 180W vs 10 Speaker 450W). I am guessing an aftermarket sub on the Sport is going to be difficult. Anyone try it or have any thoughts?
Hi, you might want to view this...'Are you changing your stock speakers? post15'
 

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V4 Watch
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Whatever you do, do it right, use the right gauge wire, use fuses ect. Someone in my old high school did a sub install in some toyota corolla. Something went wrong, it caught on fire and they poured water on it, it only got worse. Ended up burning the whole car down. Get yourself a fire extinguisher rated for chemical and electrical fires. Make sure to properly mount it too, there are car brackets available.
 

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REV29K
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I'm with you guys on the Accord Sport 2.0T needing some kind of audio upgrade. It's okay, but not nearly as good as our 2017 CR-V Touring. I'm thinking maybe just start with a speaker upgrade and see how that goes. Classically, just doing a speaker upgrade makes a big difference in how good a factory Honda system will sound. If it's still not enough of an upgrade you can just keep going but you haven't wasted any money since the next steps I would think would be to add an amp and a sub.
 

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Aftermarket subs are pretty easy. They just use an adapter to get signal from the speaker wire to the amp (speaker to RCA conversion). Then run power to the amp as usual.

Just be sure to disable the ANC or you’ll get a bunch of buzzing from your new sub.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I've noticed ANC is supposed to cut out other frequency's but counter acting the sound with other frequency. I don't know if I hear it or not but sometimes even playing the radio I hear a high pitched ringing sound. Not sure if that's it ?
 

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I added a transported JL Audio Basswedge to my 2.0 Touring this morning. It literally took 10 minutes to tap off of the existing sub wiring. Sounds fantastic! No need to change the amp as the stock amp has enough to push it. I did not have to disable the ANC

The Basswedge has 2 10" JL W0-V3 subs ported to 2 ohms that can handle between 150 and 600 watts. The stock subwoofer was also 2 ohms so the amp should not have any problems driving the JL's. I do think that ported systems will work better than sealed, but a sealed box will probably work too, with a lower output. The ease of this install gives me some hope that Honda built in some easy upgrade capabilities in this system. Of course, this setup will not break any SPL records and I presume that the amp has probably crossed over the sub a little high, but it really helps fill out the sound and adds some much needed bump to the low end. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested, but it is very simple to do this. Easiest upgrade ever.

Cant post a link to the Basswedge cause Im a noob:-(
 

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I added a transported JL Audio Basswedge to my 2.0 Touring this morning. It literally took 10 minutes to tap off of the existing sub wiring. Sounds fantastic! No need to change the amp as the stock amp has enough to push it. I did not have to disable the ANC

The Basswedge has 2 10" JL W0-V3 subs ported to 2 ohms that can handle between 150 and 600 watts. The stock subwoofer was also 2 ohms so the amp should not have any problems driving the JL's. I do think that ported systems will work better than sealed, but a sealed box will probably work too, with a lower output. The ease of this install gives me some hope that Honda built in some easy upgrade capabilities in this system. Of course, this setup will not break any SPL records and I presume that the amp has probably crossed over the sub a little high, but it really helps fill out the sound and adds some much needed bump to the low end. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested, but it is very simple to do this. Easiest upgrade ever.

Cant post a link to the Basswedge cause Im a noob:-(
Here's a link https://www.crutchfield.com/S-6IrVMK3g8Am/p_136210W0V3/JL-Audio-CP210-W0v3.html
please post pictures, show how you tapped into the sub wiring.
 

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Acoustics BSEE
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I snagged a 1-day subscription to
https://techinfo.honda.com
And i've been downloading many of the related audio schematics and pin diagrams for the 2018 models.

The Sport has 2-way speakers front and rear, which totals 8. The step up from that adds a center and sub for a total of 10.

The other upgrade is the external amplifier. The speakers in the LX/Sport/EX are powered by the in-dash radio. The step-up (EXL and up) adds an external amplifier with RS485 between the in-dash unit and the amplifier. RS485 means no more snagging a signal before the amp. Additionally, the amplifier does mixing of the ANC signals, System beeps, voice recognition, etc.

I would remove the factory sub if you add one in the trunk powered from the factory amp. I wouldn't run them in parallel.
 

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Agree that you should definitely disconnect the factory sub. Hooking it up in parallel would take the load down to 1 ohm in my case which is a no go for this amp.

Do any of your downloaded docs give any output wattage per channel? Im gonna get some voltage outputs to calculate, but would like to know what Honda is saying it is supposed to be.
 

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Acoustics BSEE
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Agree that you should definitely disconnect the factory sub. Hooking it up in parallel would take the load down to 1 ohm in my case which is a no go for this amp.

Do any of your downloaded docs give any output wattage per channel? Im gonna get some voltage outputs to calculate, but would like to know what Honda is saying it is supposed to be.
No info like that, I looked.

I perform two tests on a stock system. The first is playing test tones and putting my oscilloscope and DMM on the outputs (to see if they are balanced or not). The second is connecting the output through a LOC and feeding a soundcard in a PC running an RTA app. That gives me frequency response of the output.
 

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Acoustics BSEE
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Subscribed. I may look into speaker & sub upgrades if someone posts a simple, cost effective upgrade, to the factory system.
Simple is relative. Some just add a sub off the factory sub signal and are thrilled. Others try to re-engineer the whole car. Most are somewhere in the middle. Anything is possible and it gets easier if you can fork out money for a nice DSP and learn how to use it effectively. But replacing all speakers, re-wiring, adding amps, etc. is no different than other cars.

I'm doing a system in a 2017 Malibu and that radio isn't removable or relocatable. I have to tap the signal into the factory amp, and then do whatever I want. The trick is where to get the signal as the amp output has all information but also has distortion. If you tap before the amp in some cars you lose chimes and maybe BT audio since some factory amps have the mixer in them and not in the HU. Some factory amps are just amps and the input signal is perfectly clean. When tapping the factory amp output you really only want to use 60%-70% of the HU volume range (typical for any stock head unit) unless you scope the outputs and find the >1% THD point. The hassle this creates is remembering to not exceed that range since your gains will be based on it.

Older cars let you just swap head units, but they also had zero useful features or tech.
 

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Subscribed. I may look into speaker & sub upgrades if someone posts a simple, cost effective upgrade, to the factory system.
Curious what would your budget be? I haven't listened to it yet, but how bad are we talking with the Sport sound system? And is the 1.5 the same as the 2.0? (I believe it is) Depending on how bad it is, better speakers could be three or four hundred or less?

I'm wondering if there's a hack to get Sirius/XM back into the 1.5 since it uses the same infotainment system I think. No idea if the 1.5 Sport is pre-wired for sat radio or not. Would be nice if it was and Honda just didn't hook it up. That's my biggest issue for long drives with the 1.5 Sport.....taking away sat and HD radio. Streaming via my phone or a tablet just isn't as seamless as built into the unit.
 

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REV29K
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On my test drive I thought the 8-speaker setup in the Accord Sport was a bit below average when compared to our CR-V Touring. I'd probably consider spending up to $400 or so on some upgrades.
 
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