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If you have the Sport (no separate amp), I highly doubt that just adding a sub will be sufficient. For those that also swapped the front speakers, did you have trouble surface mounting the tweeters? None of the ones on crutchfield are “drop in”.
 

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Does anyone have the harness wiring diagram? I want to see which color wire belongs to which speaker. I’ll most likely be tapping Into the front speakers but I rather tap into the wires without going through the doors.

Any help appreciates!
If you have the Sport (no separate amp), I highly doubt that just adding a sub will be sufficient. For those that also swapped the front speakers, did you have trouble surface mounting the tweeters? None of the ones on crutchfield are “drop in”.
We have done these before. Please follow the link.
https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/249-audio-electronics-lighting/528193-speaker-upgrades-subwoofer-install-2018-accord-sport.html
 

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Does anyone have the harness wiring diagram? I want to see which color wire belongs to which speaker. I’ll most likely be tapping Into the front speakers but I rather tap into the wires without going through the doors.

Any help appreciates!
If you have the Sport (no separate amp), I highly doubt that just adding a sub will be sufficient. For those that also swapped the front speakers, did you have trouble surface mounting the tweeters? None of the ones on crutchfield are “drop in”.
We have done these before. Please follow the link.
https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/249-audio-electronics-lighting/528193-speaker-upgrades-subwoofer-install-2018-accord-sport.html
Thank you!

For those who installed just a powered sub or a sub+amp and kept everything else stock, did you find that you needed to add a line driver?
 

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No line driver needed. Installed 8" powered sub. Only issue was ANC, which I just unplugged the module under the dash. Otherwise sound is significantly improved!
 

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I added a transported JL Audio Basswedge to my 2.0 Touring this morning. It literally took 10 minutes to tap off of the existing sub wiring. Sounds fantastic! No need to change the amp as the stock amp has enough to push it. I did not have to disable the ANC

The Basswedge has 2 10" JL W0-V3 subs ported to 2 ohms that can handle between 150 and 600 watts. The stock subwoofer was also 2 ohms so the amp should not have any problems driving the JL's. I do think that ported systems will work better than sealed, but a sealed box will probably work too, with a lower output. The ease of this install gives me some hope that Honda built in some easy upgrade capabilities in this system. Of course, this setup will not break any SPL records and I presume that the amp has probably crossed over the sub a little high, but it really helps fill out the sound and adds some much needed bump to the low end. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested, but it is very simple to do this. Easiest upgrade ever.

Cant post a link to the Basswedge cause Im a noob:-(
A bit late to the game, got my Touring 2.0, a couple months ago, but would like a picture and also the exact brand and model speaker you got as well. Thanks.
 

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Hi Folks, I'm new here (also introduced myself on the new member section). I have the 2.0 T.

Like many of you, I was underwhelmed by the audio system and so, after reading up on threads here, I purchased 2 x JBL 3-ohm speaker sets - total 4 x 6.5 speakers with 4 tweeters - for the front doors and rear shelf panel. Also bought a Pioneer 2-ohm/twin coil 8-inch subwoofer to replace the factory sub speaker.

I just finished installing the front door speakers; the obvious improvement was from the tweeters. I can even say that the stock 6.5 inchers had a slightly stronger bass if not as tight and accurate as the JBLs. That said, if you're OK with the bass as is, just change the tweeters and the upgrade would be worth it.

I'll be putting in the rear 6.5 inchers & tweeters plus the 8" subwoofer in a weekend or two. I'm hoping the new Pioneer sub will produce satisfying bass for jazz and rock music, i.e., just natural, cabin-filling but not glass-shaking bass. If not I'll probably add a relatively low-power bass amp with LOC to drive the Pioneer.

I'll keep y'all updated.
 

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I need help too, please

Hi. I have the 2017 accord touring and although most of the speakers sound good enough for me the sub is not good at all. I’d love to hear/ see how you did this please.
 

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did you route it from the engine to the inside or from inside to the engine? do you pictures from more angles? im trying to to pass a wire from the the engine bay inside as well.
 

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Amp in the Touring model's

I understand theres a seperate amp in the touring models. Does anyone know where its located ? Is it behind the H/U , or is it just a whole different H/U ?
 

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I added a transported JL Audio Basswedge to my 2.0 Touring this morning. It literally took 10 minutes to tap off of the existing sub wiring. Sounds fantastic! No need to change the amp as the stock amp has enough to push it. I did not have to disable the ANC

The Basswedge has 2 10" JL W0-V3 subs ported to 2 ohms that can handle between 150 and 600 watts. The stock subwoofer was also 2 ohms so the amp should not have any problems driving the JL's. I do think that ported systems will work better than sealed, but a sealed box will probably work too, with a lower output. The ease of this install gives me some hope that Honda built in some easy upgrade capabilities in this system. Of course, this setup will not break any SPL records and I presume that the amp has probably crossed over the sub a little high, but it really helps fill out the sound and adds some much needed bump to the low end. I'll post pictures if anyone is interested, but it is very simple to do this. Easiest upgrade ever.

Cant post a link to the Basswedge cause Im a noob:-(
basswedge
 

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I have a 2018 EX-L With Factory sub. I am installing a dual 12" sub setup. My amp has speaker level inputs so I will be tapping the wiring at the factory sub for my signal. My question is, will this same tap work for my remote turn on wire? I'd appreciate any advice.
 
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