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Discussion Starter #1
I need advice on a sub/amp selection. I contacted Crutchfield and they suggested a kicker ported comp 10 in a truck box or the JL Basswedge 10 with a JBL 300 watt amp

Kicker:44TCWC102
JL Basswedge:CP110WoV3
JBL Amp: A3001

My question is, which is the better option? I’m confused as to why a truck box sub would be recommended for our accord, would it work well? The Kicker is about $100 less than the JL.
Thanks in advance for your opinion.
 

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Either of those would work, but yes, a truck box is a bit of a strange choice. All depends on how much of the trunk you want used for an enclosure. Of those two, the JL is probably the better choice as the enclosure is larger, but you're really not limited to just those as the trunk is huge. The 300w amp is a bit on the small side, though probably a good choice for those 2 boxes.

Personally im using a JL Microsub+ model ACP110LG-TW1, its a single ported 10" with a built-in 400w amp. It uses hardly any space in the trunk and sounds pretty good, although its not super loud, good match for the stock speakers. I'd probably want more if they had additional external amplification though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. I’m planning an audio build, while trying to be budget conscious. I have a 1,500 budget, but I know nothing about car audio-so this is my first attempt.
 

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Thanks for the reply. I’m planning an audio build, while trying to be budget conscious. I have a 1,500 budget, but I know nothing about car audio-so this is my first attempt.
$1500 is plenty of money to get started especially if you keep your stock speakers or dont amplify them (they do sound better once they break in) An option like my powered JL microsub ($569) or the bass package suggested by another member would work fine. I guess we need to know, what are you hoping to achieve? better bottom end, or to have people hear you from 1/2 mile away? we can make better suggestions once we know what you want. Your original post with the kicker truck box or jl box with outboard amp are also fine if you want to keep things small. Let us know!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
$1500 is plenty of money to get started especially if you keep your stock speakers or dont amplify them (they do sound better once they break in) An option like my powered JL microsub ($569) or the bass package suggested by another member would work fine. I guess we need to know, what are you hoping to achieve? better bottom end, or to have people hear you from 1/2 mile away? we can make better suggestions once we know what you want. Your original post with the kicker truck box or jl box with outboard amp are also fine if you want to keep things small. Let us know!
Thanks for the help!
I am looking for clarity with enough bass to fill in. I don’t need anything too extreme. The Touring audio sounds good IMO, it just lacks a small amount of volume, clarity, and seems to lack bass more than anything. I’m just trying to make the premium audio feel a little more premium if that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey what do you guys think about this setup?

JL Audio CP110-W0V3 Ported 10" Enclosure w/ 1 10W0v3 Woofer

AudioControl LC7i 6-Channel Factory Integration

JL Audio RD900/5 75W x 4 + 500W x 1 Car Amplifier

(2X) JL Audio C2-650 6-1/2" Component Car Speakers
 

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All good stuff, but perhaps a little too much amp for a single 10w0 (of course you could back the gain off a bit) but you're on the edge, the RMS for that driver is 300W, now a pair of them, like in a c210-W0v3 that would be a better match. Sticking with JL, something like a HO110RG-W3v3 (or the 112, 12" model) if you really want a single driver would also be a good choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So i
$1500 is plenty of money to get started especially if you keep your stock speakers or dont amplify them (they do sound better once they break in) An option like my powered JL microsub ($569) or the bass package suggested by another member would work fine. I guess we need to know, what are you hoping to achieve? better bottom end, or to have people hear you from 1/2 mile away? we can make better suggestions once we know what you want. Your original post with the kicker truck box or jl box with outboard amp are also fine if you want to keep things small. Let us know!
So I went with a RF P2 with a 300 watt amp w/ bass control knob. I was able to remove the bass from the door speakers and the system sounds great! Not too much, but just enough. Basically it’s exactly what the premium audio was missing. I do need to sound deaden the rear deck - oh and I removed the factory sub to add somewhat of a port to let the sound pass through.

I may end up adding speakers and another amp later, but for now this is more than enough.
 

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Congrats on the new setup, The buzzing rear deck is a huge problem, I have it too, but if you wanted to removed the factory sub, you have to remove the cover anyways to access the screws. Perfect opportunity to fix it! You will also find as the factory speakers break in, they tend to sound a little better and maybe even a tad louder. As a final thing, do a search (i cant remember the procedure at the moment,) but if you go into the head units developer mode, there is a toggle for PS Audio on/off or some such. Turning it OFF made a huge improvement on my Sport 2.0 by removing the factory EQ curve. I have the 8 speaker audio system though, so YMMV.
 
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rmurad38
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