Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Noobie here. I'm planning on adding some bass to the "premium stereo" on my 2014. My goal is to upgrade the sub and, maybe most importantly, power it with a dedicated amp to give more power to the other speakers from the HU. Problem is I DO NOT want a box in my trunk.

I want opinions on IB setups in this car or if there are any other good alternatives. I know there are some opinions out there - I think I've read every thread on here so please don't ask me to search. I'm just looking for some more feedback from people who have upgraded the sub in its STOCK LOCATION.

To be honest, I've just been told by 2 separate installers that free-air is a terrible idea and I'm just hoping someone can give the other side (if it exists). I don't need a thumper, I just want something to fill the voids in lows with some crisp SQ.

I'd be putting in a decent sub (Dayton, ID8, TC Sounds Epic 8, GTO804 etc.) and deadening as much as possible. Haven't really got to amp choices yet. Think I'll be happy?

Really appreciate it guys.
 

·
Newb
Joined
·
136 Posts
The problem that you are going to have is that 8" subwoofers really aren't great for infinite baffle applications. Nearly all 8's require the additional suspension that some sort of enclosure provides. Without that you will easily over extend the cone unless you run very low power. One thing to consider is creating a custom baffle that will allow you to mount a 10" or 12" sub to the factory opening.

The other problem that you are going to have is that in order for the IB sub to work well you really need to seal off the rest of the trunk. That means that the opening from the trunk to the rear seats needs to be completely sealed when the back of the rear seat is up. Think of the trunk as one really large enclosure. If the box is too big or leaky it can't provide the suspension that the cone requires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow that looks exactly like the email I received from the installer. Ha!

Thanks so much. A couple (newbie) questions though:

1. Re: creating a custom baffle. By this do you just mean cutting the factory sub "hole" larger to accommodate a bigger sub?

2. Re: sealing the trunk. I plan on sealing the trunk the best I can (or the installer can if I go that route). Whether it's done well is another question but theoretically, can you seal the trunk well enough and keep your passthrough? I just ask because my installer said "to make your trunk airtight you will lose your passthrough" but you said "that means that the opening from the trunk to the rear seats needs to be completely sealed WHEN the back of the rear seat is up."
 

·
Newb
Joined
·
136 Posts
Wow that looks exactly like the email I received from the installer. Ha!

Thanks so much. A couple (newbie) questions though:

1. Re: creating a custom baffle. By this do you just mean cutting the factory sub "hole" larger to accommodate a bigger sub?

2. Re: sealing the trunk. I plan on sealing the trunk the best I can (or the installer can if I go that route). Whether it's done well is another question but theoretically, can you seal the trunk well enough and keep your passthrough? I just ask because my installer said "to make your trunk airtight you will lose your passthrough" but you said "that means that the opening from the trunk to the rear seats needs to be completely sealed WHEN the back of the rear seat is up."
1. The baffle on the bottom of the deck would be 8", and on the other end it would be 12" to accommodate the larger sub. You or your installer could do this by layering MDF rings to eventually get to the appropriate diameter.

2. Really we're getting into semantics here. You could keep your pass through, but you'd need to get creative about sealing it. I'm thinking you would need to add some stiff foam all around the pass through to get it to seal and even then it will still probably be leaky.

Honestly, you're chasing unicorns here. With all of the slimline subwoofers available these days, why not just use one in a low profile box and call it a day? Personally, I am running two standard size 8's in a sealed box in my trunk. The entire box is like 20" x 6" deep. It tucks all the way into the back of the trunk and it doesn't impede me from using the car like I would without it. If I need to take it out, it has terminals on it and could be removed very easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you.

Where did you get your box?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
608 Posts
OP, look into a custom fiberglass enclosure on the rear trunk corners as you'd give up very little in the way of usable trunk space (one trunk corner usually suffices). Nobody seems to have made a mold to sell them over the counter, probably because the 9th gen is just too new yet and doesn't have the market numbers. So you'll have to find an installer who is very experienced with fiberglass to do the work for you. You can also try doing it yourself but it's a messy job and not at all easy to do the first time around.

I too do not like premade square or rectangular boxes. Those are more made for trucks where they have a flat wall behind the seats, or have seats that sit so high they can easily accommodate large boxes directly underneath.
 

·
Thunder Up!
Joined
·
2,559 Posts
OP, look into a custom fiberglass enclosure on the rear trunk corners as you'd give up very little in the way of usable trunk space (one trunk corner usually suffices). Nobody seems to have made a mold to sell them over the counter, probably because the 9th gen is just too new yet and doesn't have the market numbers. So you'll have to find an installer who is very experienced with fiberglass to do the work for you. You can also try doing it yourself but it's a messy job and not at all easy to do the first time around.

I too do not like premade square or rectangular boxes. Those are more made for trucks where they have a flat wall behind the seats, or have seats that sit so high they can easily accommodate large boxes directly underneath.
I might know someone who does good work that could do this.....let me look into this :thmsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I might know someone who does good work that could do this.....let me look into this :thmsup:
Interesting. Let me know. I just ordered a shallow 10" and a shallow box. Not an audiophile upgrade but to be honest I think having a sub with a dedicated amp will give that much more juice to the speakers and for the sub I figure anything is better than the current rattle.

All that to say, got some stuff on the cheap so fiberglass remains an option.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Newb
Joined
·
136 Posts
Interesting. Let me know. I just ordered a shallow 10" and a shallow box. Not an audiophile upgrade but to be honest I think having a sub with a dedicated amp will give that much more juice to the speakers and for the sub I figure anything is better than the current rattle.

All that to say, got some stuff on the cheap so fiberglass remains an option.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
What do you mean "I think having a sub with a dedicated amp will give that much more juice to the speakers"? Just because you're adding a dedicated subwoofer and amplifier you shouldn't be expecting an improvement in the other stock speakers in the car.

What did you wind up getting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What do you mean "I think having a sub with a dedicated amp will give that much more juice to the speakers"? Just because you're adding a dedicated subwoofer and amplifier you shouldn't be expecting an improvement in the other stock speakers in the car.

What did you wind up getting?
You would if you're bypassing the stock sub therefore giving the rest of the speakers a bigger piece of the stock amp pie.

I got a Rockford Fosgate R2 ultra shallow 10" with a .67 cubic ft shallow box. Just hoping for something complimentary; this is my first audio upgrade.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Do you guys have pics of your boxes...love to get some visual ideas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·

·
Newb
Joined
·
136 Posts
You would if you're bypassing the stock sub therefore giving the rest of the speakers a bigger piece of the stock amp pie.

I got a Rockford Fosgate R2 ultra shallow 10" with a .67 cubic ft shallow box. Just hoping for something complimentary; this is my first audio upgrade.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
I'm sorry, but your logic isn't correct. By bypassing the stock sub and "unloading" that channel of the factory amp you're not going to improve sound to the other speakers connected to the same amp.

I like the new Rockford stuff, thats what I am running. What are you going to use to power it?
 

·
Newb
Joined
·
136 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm sorry, but your logic isn't correct. By bypassing the stock sub and "unloading" that channel of the factory amp you're not going to improve sound to the other speakers connected to the same amp.

I like the new Rockford stuff, thats what I am running. What are you going to use to power it?
I'll admit that I know F-all about this stuff but the guy who was going to do my install said that complete opposite (and what I had originally said). I wasn't expecting night and day but I was really hoping it was somewhat true...

I'm buying a JL JX250/1.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
On my last car I had an aftermarket HU with DSP built in. Thing sounded amazing.

I was considering installing a DSP unit that interfaced with the factory stereo to help the doors and rears. I found this on Crutchfield for cheap...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XDPPK1K/Sony-XDP-PK1000-Digital-Link-Sound-System.html

For like $200 its a Sony DSP that can be wired into your high inputs, plus a sub in an enclose, PLUS an amp.

I'm not trying to enter any competitions, but for cheap upgrades, what do you guys think about this, plus some major sound deadening, plus new doors and rears?

I'm thinking I can get away with like 500-600 dollars total for a pretty decent setup.
 

·
Thunder Up!
Joined
·
2,559 Posts
I'd do:

MS-8 used: $300-325
Sub/box (or go IB): $100-200
5-Channel: $200-300

You're at say...$650 there. You're now able to go active and pick out individual drivers instead of purchasing component sets, in which you'd be paying for packing/size/crossovers/etc. You can pick up a few cheap 6.5's and a pair of tweeters that will kill most component sets under $400 or so for like $100-150. You don't need to do it all at once...so if you can't, just do it over time. For a few hundred more you could have a MUCH better setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I know we have gotten way away from baffle but what about the JL Audio baffle subs? http://www.jlaudio.com/marine-audio-subwoofer-drivers-m-series-infinite-baffle-subwoofers

I am looking for the same thing the starter of this thread is looking for. I want to keep it stock but add a little more to the stereo. I am not looking to rattle windows I just want more than what I have. A small amp under the passenger seat and a baffle sub even a 8inch won't that give me enough. While the trunk in not totally sealed won't that be enough?

Or would I be better off with one of those soundstream compact subs under the passenger seat. Surely that changes things!
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top