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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will a broken sway bar end link cause a tire to wear unevenly? I noticed I have a broken one on the front passenger side, and I plan to replace it when I do the next oil change (within the next two weeks). I'm not sure how long it's been broken, but the tire on that side has a lot of wear on the outside and inside edges. Is this likely due to the broken link or is it more likely an alignment issue?

And if anyone has any suggestions on how to get the broken section removed without an impact or cutting it off, I'm open to ideas.
 

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I doubt the wear is due to the broken link unless it was interfering with something. Or broken for a long time. I noticed a broken front link when changing to winter tires on my 03 a couple of winters ago. Replaced it when it got warm enough for me in the spring - at least 55 degrees :). The car handled fairly well as long as you didn't push it and there was absolutely no sign of any unusual wear.

Sorry, no great words of advice for you. I spent a good deal of time with a dremmel cutting the sucker off. There must be a better way! Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's quite possible that it's been broken for a long time. I've been taking it to a quick lube place by me because with a coupon they could change the oil for about what I would pay to do it myself (or less). Plus the place where I bought the tires does free rotations. Because of that, I haven't even had that wheel off except to do the brakes... and it's possible that I missed it at that point. For all I know, it could have been broken since I bought the car 65k miles ago.

Here in Florida, I do the opposite. I wait until winter to do work on my car if it can wait.
 

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I think it's a ball joint so imparts no directional force on the suspension, other than up or down, so toe, caster, and camber are not greatly impacted.

Rip the cup off and put large vise grips on the ball and wrench on the nut.
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Will a broken sway bar end link cause a tire to wear unevenly? I noticed I have a broken one on the front passenger side, and I plan to replace it when I do the next oil change (within the next two weeks). I'm not sure how long it's been broken, but the tire on that side has a lot of wear on the outside and inside edges. Is this likely due to the broken link or is it more likely an alignment issue?

And if anyone has any suggestions on how to get the broken section removed without an impact or cutting it off, I'm open to ideas.
How is your passenger side compliance bushing?
When my right side sway bar link was broken, the passenger side compliance bushing was torn, which may be related to each other. Torn compliance bushings can affect the camber.

The key to remove swaybar links: cleaning off the rust! The more time you send on cleaning off the rust, the easier it gets off.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/1...sway-bar-links-do-they-always-break-like.html
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/1...waybar-link-removal-w-o-cutting-torching.html
 

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Broken anti-sway bar end links do not cause tire wear. In fact the 7th Gen Accord VP has no rear sway bar. I have driven with no rear antisway bar for a month, with no strange tire wear. The first thing you need to check is alignment, then worn ball joints, bushings, strut.

Getting a vice jammed on the back side round collar then trying to wrench off the nut, ONLY works if the rust isn't so severe. If the rust is severe and you've already tried cleaning the threads as much as possible, then you need to cut it off using a sawzall. Believe me, I destroyed 2 vice grip wrenches doing on on my dad's car. Then I just went at it with a Milwaukee sawzall, which took just 15 minutes, when I already tried wrenching the damn nuts off for over an hour. There is no room to fit a high torque impact in there either at an odd angle.
 

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I am clearly not sure why Honda does not change the collar design of its OEM anti-sway bar end links, this is why I use aftermarket ones with a hex nut on the back side. This allows you to put a wrench on it squarely then you can turn the nut off easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As an FYI, the rust on my 13 year old parts was minimal. I was able to break them loose after a little penetrating oil with an adjustable crescent wrench. Once they are freed up, they will obviously spin. I noticed that the end of the threaded portion of the factory links, you can insert a hex head to keep it from spinning while wrenching off the nut. It took a good bit of force, but they came off fine without heat, impact (which wouldn't fit anyway), or resorting to cutting. Of course, if you live anywhere where they regularly salt the roads in the winter, this isn't going to work for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Nice - yeah, up here in the salt belt, that hex head is all but TOAST by the time they brake. No chance to use that in the 3 I've replaced.
I hear you. I moved down here from PA so I know what cars look like underneath after a few years. I owned a car that spent the first 15 years of its life in New England... everything I tried to work on just snapped off from rust.
 

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Rotating the summer tires on and found the left front broken today. Just thought I'd add a few pics of what it took to get those bolts out. As you can see, I just twisted the piece off the ball joint part of the bolt, for better access to putting a vice grips on it. Turned difficult even after wire wheeling the threads, but she came off.
 

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