[II Kings 9:20]

Tiny battery and oil filter too. Tha Accord handles better than competition (flatter cornering IMO) and any increased thickness will likely be unnoticed as stated.

Changing to more aggressive summer tires will make a much larger difference than a couple mm of sway bar thickness. No need to wait for the aftermarket there.

 

[II Kings 9:20]

Nice mod. I might appreciate the thicker roll bar if I felt there was a deficiency-may be a case of "you don't know what your missing"

I drove the '13 Altima SL and it felt fine in all but a 65 MPH off ramp under braking where I did a series quick right left moves of the steering wheel and the rear end felt very skittish. Not as much a twitchiness but the suspension was upset and seemed as if the rebound and compression were out of sync with the direction the car was attempting to go. The Accord was rock solid on the same ramp under the same circumstances.

Corners flatter is what it is supposed to do. Any impact on impact harshness or road noise. My 750 had hydraulic roll bars that were decoupled when going straight (giving a smooth ride with effectively no roll bar) and increased stiffness depending on lateral G.

 

[II Kings 9:20]

Installed the new sway bar in the back it is a night and day in the corners, but it just made me realize how the chasis needs some stiffening up. I might wait for a FSB to come out or maybe use the V6 (i have a 2013 accord sport) I havent quite decided but overall this was cheap overall with bushings was 80 bucks. you can't beat that lol. Thank on2

Where did you get your bar and bushings?

 

[II Kings 9:20]

Oversteers at the limit. Normal driving is very neutral.

With factory Michelins

Hmmm, oversteer at the limit on a FWD would be a bear on the track given that no power goes to the rear there would be little opportunity to correct it with the throttle since 100% of the torque is at the front wheels. Nearly all FWDs inherently understeer. How do you correct this oversteer if the rear end starts to swing around in a FWD? Of course countersteer is a given in any slide.

With a RWD (old 911 is the best example) you keep your throttle foot planted (steady not necessarily WOT to the floor) and do not lift . If you do, there is a relative weight transfer forward and the rear end swings around with only very little weight lifting off the rear while you are at the limit and the rear tires need every ounce of grip to maintain traction. Lift throttle = lost rear tire grip at the limit.

In an old 911 (before the days of the AWD C4 and new multilink rear), that bad boy would snap spin if you lifted the throttle in an oversteer and even a pro would have great difficulty gathering up the pendulum as it swung around. I attended a course in the late '80s and got to experiene this in a 911 and it is scary.

 

[II Kings 9:20]

As I've mentioned throughout this thread. The oversteer comes on gradually. You feel it coming and you adjust your driving as you feel it.

I have been following along from the beginning. When you feel it coming on gradually, what exactly are you doing to adjust your driving? FWD oversteer is a odd duck (you can't steer with the throttle) that I have never experienced be it gradual or not. If indeed it is mild and gradual it may be just an issue in vitro and not clinically significant on the street.

 

[II Kings 9:20]

Sounds to me like you need to get out there and drive more.

Thanks but I have plenty of experience on the track with AWD and RWD and even one FWD (TSX). No real need for me to practice with my FWD sedan although I may still do the mod if it tightens things up without adding harshness.

 

[II Kings 9:20]

Ralph Nader scared every mfg other than Porsche out of selling cars with terminal oversteer. I'm familiar with and appreciate the stick your foot into and steer like a madman solution when you overcook in a 911.

Some mid-late 80's Toyota rentals I drove had snap oversteer on throttle lift. Discovered on decreasing radius NJ jug handles. Nothing that bad since.

This no doubt be why Accords are set up with a less than optimal diameter rear bar....to protect appliance operators from themselves...as it should be for a machine like this.

Tinker with the stock suspension at your own risk. And I don't mean that badly/negatively at all.

Got it bro, and I agree. Interestingly I used to autocross a '65 Corvair (the new suspension design) which was a huge improvement over '60-64. Not only did the 60-64 have terminal oversteer (as did the Beetle), under braking, the rear wheels would toe in severely and flip the car. Oversteer is one thing but flipping is a whole new game.

I test drove a Taurus SHO in the early '90s and dam near swapped ends on a decreasing radius on ramp.

 

[II Kings 9:20]

I am still waiting. I read many many pages ago about the rear bar touching the body or sub frame. I have not seen any recent commentary about it. What's the word on that.