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Discussion Starter #1
I have an issue with my temperature gauge, when i leave my house in the morning for school, it takes like 5 minutes to warm up, normal... not the problem, the problem is that it will warm up and then i sit at a light about 3 miles down the road every morning, because i happen to catch it red every morning, and the temperature gauge will fall down to the cold line and then slowly jump back up. Then, this only happens once in a while, I could be driving 60mph down US19, like I do every morning, and the gauge will just fall out of nowhere down to the cold mark again, then jump back up seconds later. My question is that could this be a temperature sending unit or something of that nature??? This happens 3-4 times out of the 5 mornings I drive to school. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks

Jason
 

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Try running with the heat on, see if the gauge stays lower than what it normally does.

By your description, it sounds like the cluster is losing the signal, which goes from the sender to the engine computer then to the gauge. Check the plug at the sender make sure it's tight, the sender is going to be the least expensive part of all this. The cluster could also have a bad connection inside as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Try running with the heat on, see if the gauge stays lower than what it normally does.
It doesn't, it stays the same.

EDIT: I pulled the code tonight (NO CEL ON) and there was a pending code (P0128).
 

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P0128 is engine temperature below thermostat regulating temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
P0128 is engine temperature below thermostat regulating temp.
Yes that is what my reader said in the explanation, does that mean i should just replace the temp. sending unit?
 

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No.
That code usually means the engine itself is running too cold.

Pick up a new oem thermostat and coolant. More than likely the stat is stuck open or opening too early.

Have you noticed your fuel mileage worse than normal?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No.
That code usually means the engine itself is running too cold.

Pick up a new oem thermostat and coolant. More than likely the stat is stuck open or opening too early.

Have you noticed your fuel mileage worse than normal?
Actually yes I have. I was wondering what was up with that.
 

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Engine running colder than normal will use much more fuel.

If you change the t-stat, you should also change the oil. It's probably somewhat fuel diluted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, went to change the thermostat today and my Haynes manual says follow the top radiator hose to the engine block and remove the thermostat housing. Well I did and guess what, It wasn't there... I found out it is located if you follow the bottom radiator hose the the rear of the motor. The first pic is where i thought it was, and the other is where it actually is. I am a little frustrated cause now god knows when ill get to doing it...



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That's one reason why I'd never buy a Haynes manual, the factory Helm's manuals, though more expensive are worth it.
 

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I'd prob put in a new oem pcv valve for safe measure. For some reason these engines can turn into oil burners over night.

There was an old lady that was burning a quart every 600 miles in her 02 I4. Maybe even more with stickly highway use. :paranoid:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'd prob put in a new oem pcv valve for safe measure. For some reason these engines can turn into oil burners over night.

There was an old lady that was burning a quart every 600 miles in her 02 I4. Maybe even more with stickly highway use. :paranoid:
Ya I did that as soon as I got the car because I heard about that.
 

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I don't think your car will end up drinking oil, since the stat is either stuck open or opening early. The ones that have issues are the one that stick closed and overheat.

For the gauge to register overheating, it has to be way HOT for at least 40 seconds for the gauge to move up.

All the ones I've had that drink/drank oil, were highway cars that I really feel would get way hot, without the driver ever noticing, since the gauge never moved. I only had one female customer that "thought" she saw the gauge pegged in Tennessee, but by the time she looked again it was "normal", and immediately after that the car used a qt every 100-500 miles on the highway. The F23 oil control rings don't like heat, they contract once overheated and do nothing. On her car, I did find the rubber seat melted on the stat, and on a few others as well at higher mileage replacements.

I now recommend at each timing belt interval or 105k/110k, replace the stat, since most if not all use the rubber seats to seal the stat valve.
 

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I've got a similar problem with my 1999' Accord 2.3L.

The temp gauge on the cluster seems to bob around some times. Never hot, it just either goes cold or moves around. If I tap on the instrument bezel it'll go back to where it's supposed to be. That started about a year ago. I never worried with it since I could just tap the dash and things were fine.

For the past 6 months my fuel gauge has been wonky. It rarely reads correctly and makes huge movements in short periods of time. It'll bob anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 difference at random times.

I pulled the sending unit out of the tank and ohm'd it out and it had correct readings of:

E 106.2
1/2 36.4
F 4.2

I went ahead and replaced it anyway with one from a salvage yard since I had it apart, but it didn't correct the problem obviously since the ohms were correct to begin with.

So now I'm thinking it must be something in the cluster. It looks like the fuel/temperature meter assembly is about $90 from the dealer. I can get an entire gauge cluster off ebay for about $65. How is the mileage stored?

Fred, you've helped me in the past...got any ideas on other things I should check?

I have had the cluster apart a few years ago to replace bulbs in it for the "D" for drive and the bulb behind the tach but other than that it's always been good to go. Do gauges go bad or should I take it apart and try a good cleaning of the contacts before trying new parts?

Car has 158K on the clock.
 

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Honda had issues with the senders and redesigned them. The junkyard one could be working badly as well. Even though you got good values, when its soaked in fuel, it can react with the sulfur that's in the fuel and give false readings.

The '98 here had the issue way back when it was about a year old. The senders at that time were about $30, I think they are about double that now.

I've not seen the gauges go bad, at least on the ones I see on a routine basis.

The mileage is written into the cluster, you'd need to find someone who has an odometer writer. They aren't cheap, and many people with them aren't the most upstanding citizens, they usually charge $350 to rewrite a cluster.

Honda's HDS will only write mileage into a new cluster that's zeroed, as far as I can remember. Many times, they won't even do that and put in clusters with zero miles on them.

What's the last 8 of your vin?
 

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Thanks Fred. Interesting that the temp gauge is acting flaky. I'll grab the VIN. I'll also double check for any codes related to the temp this weekend.

Got a lot of work to do on this car at the moment. Tie rods, rear brakes, try to get the gas and temp gauges working, and finally repair/paint the bumper cover and paint/install a new hood. Hit a deer (ouch). Gonna try my hand at painting with base coat/clear coat.
 

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Is there a digit missing at the end? There should be six numbers after the A
can you put up the full vin?

Sorry, could just be me. I just want to make sure what I'm reading is applicable to your car.
 

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Well, thanks to Fred giving me some ideas via PM on how to test the fuel gauge I think I found the problem.

Looks like I have a short in the instrument panel's circuit board. I took it out tonight and if I wriggle the right side with the ign keyed on the temp gauge flicks around from C to mid way to 1/4, etc. Seems the fuel gauge is likely also affected but since it reacts more slowly it doesn't show up as quickly.

I can be driving along and one minute the Fuel gauge is 1/2 and the next minute is past F like I just filled up. The temp gauge sometimes is at C while driving and if I tap the gauge it flicks back up to about 1/2 like it should read.

I measured 5.80V across pins 1 and 2 at the fuel pump connector with the ign keyed on. I also jumpered pins 1 and 2 and the fuel gauge rose to about 3/4 then stopped. I waited about 2 minutes then tapped the dash above the gauges and the fuel read went the rest of the way to F.

Options to resolve this are a bit limited since Honda decided to store mileage in the instrument cluster rather than in the ECM. I'm thinking about buying a cluster off Ebay just to see if it might be the actual gauge panel that contains the Fuel and temp gauges, but I find it highly unlikely both would fail simultaneously leading me to believe it's the circuit board.

Thanks again Fred.
 
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