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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, both for my own tracking, and to share with the Interwebs, here is the history of my 2006 V6 6-speed manual Accord Coupe.

My previous car was a 2001 I4 5-speed Accord Sedan. Just 9 months after I rebuilt the engine with new rings and a complete head job (to cure my oil burning), and literally 2 weeks after installing new shocks and CV axles, it was totaled. Great timing, huh? Someone rear-ended me on the freeway and pushed me into the car ahead of me just to maximize damage. So time for a new car.


On the plus side, it did give me the opportunity to upgrade to the V6. I just wish I had had enough time to search for a sedan. So the rest of this post is going to be a "complete" listing of everything I've done to the car since I got it.

Car Bought September 2011, with 102,445 miles on it

Installed iPod Adapter, September, 2011, ~104,000 miles
UneekSupply iPod Auxiliary Adapter from eBay (Plugs into XM radio port)

Bought Manuals, September, 2011 ~104,000 miles
Main Helm Factory Service Manual - 61SDA08
Helm V6 Supplement - 61SDA09
This was before I learned that these manuals were available in PDF format. Although it IS still really helpful to have the hard copy to do quick references in the garage when I'm already dirty.
I also bought a reproduction Owner's Manual from eBay to keep in the glove box for quick reference items.

Replaced Rear Brakes, October 2011, ~105,000 miles
Akebono Street Performance Pads - ASP537
Centric Premium E-Coated Discs - 120.40055

Air Filters, October 2011, ~106,000 miles
Engine Air Filter, WIX - 49063
Cabin Air Filter, WIX - 24815

Interior LEDs, December, 2011, ~108,000 miles
I bought a kit from Diode Dynamics for two map lights (31mm), dome light (31mm), trunk light (194), license plate (194), and door puddle lights (194)

"Permanently" Installed GPS Unit, April 2012, ~115,000 miles
Fabricated a base/mount out of Styrofoam to hold my Garmin Nuvi 2460 in place in the lower cubby. I installed a cigarette lighter splitter behind the cubby and hid all of the wiring behind the cubby. Then I just used a block of foam that is wedged into the cubby to hold the Garmin's suction cup mount in place. I pretty much expected it to be a temporary solution, but it's worked so well that I haven't touched it since I installed it. It's only now, 3 years later, that I wish I had taken the time to paint it or cover it in felt to make it look more finished. Oh well. It's hidden when you close the cubby anyway.



Replaced Front Brakes, June 2012, ~116,000 miles
Akebono Street Performance Pads - ASP787
Centric Premium E-Coated Discs - 120.40046

Trunk Lock Actuator Assembly, June 2012, ~116,000 miles
Remote trunk lock stopped working, so I had to replace this part. 74851-SDA-K02

Did Some Major Maintenance, September 2012, ~119,000 miles
Replaced Clutch
LUK 08-047 clutch kit
Clutch Release Fork - 22821-PYZ-000
Clutch Fork Pivot Bolt - 22825-P0S-000
Clutch Fork Release Boot - 22841-PPP-000
Honda High Temp Urea Grease - 08798-9002
Honda Thread Lock - 08713-0001
Power Steering TSB O-Ring - 91345-RDA-A01
Honda Power Steering Fluid - 08206-9002
Honda Manual Transmission Fluid Replaced -
Thermostat w/ Gasket, Gates - 33992
Manifold to A-pipe Gasket (2) - 18212-SA7-003
A-pipe to Pre-Chamber Gasket - 18393-SDB-A00
Air Filter Inlet Tube - 17228-RCA-A00
Motor Mount, Front - 50830-SDP-A13
Upper Transmission Mount - 50870-SDB-A02
Right Motor Mount, Anchor - 9297 (Honda units weren't in stock when I needed it)
Removed the clutch slave cylinder one-way restrictor valve while it was out of the car

Replaced/Upgraded Some Suspension Components While it Was Taken Apart
TL-S Sway Bar, Front - 51300-SEP-A21
Front Sway Bar Brackets (2) - 51308-SDA-A00
Front Sway Bar Bushings (2) - 51306-SEP-A01
Front Sway Bar End Link, Left - 51321-SEP-A01
Front Sway Bar End Link, Right - 51320-SEP-A01
Front Sway Bar End Link Nuts (4) - 94050-12080
TL-S Sway Bar, Rear - 52300-SEP-A11
Rear Sway Bar Brackets (2) - 52308-S3M-A00
Rear Sway Bar Bushings (2) - 52306-SEP-A11
Rear Sway Bar End Link, Left - 52325-SFY-J01
Rear Sway Bar End Link, Right - 52320-SFY-J01
Compliance Bushings (2) - 51394-SDB-A11
Tokico Front Struts (2) - TOHTS507F
Tokico Rear Struts (2) - TOHTS507R
Cardone Select (New) CV Axle, Left - 66-4221
Cardone Select (New) CV Axle, Right - 66-4207
Replaced Timing Belt & Water Pump
Aisin Timing Belt / Water Pump Kit - TKH002 (includes timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, hydraulic tensioner, & water pump)
I did all of this work all by myself, except for the couple of hours that I needed an extra pair of hands to realign/reinstall the transmission. Even with two people that was a hug pain the butt!
It was a LOT of parts. And this doesn't even include some stuff like engine mounts I found as I took things apart.




Installed New Spark Plugs, January 2013, ~125,000 miles
NGK 5266
This wasn't as bad as I feared it might be. But maybe that is just because I have skinny arms. I didn't have to remove any parts to get access to the rear plugs.

Installed New Upgraded Headlight Bulbs, February 2013, ~126,000 miles
Philips HIR2 9012 Standard Halogen Headlight Bulb, trimmed to fit. I just used a set of the large size of nail clippers to trim the plastic. It was a little bit tough, but it worked really well.

Got New Tires Installed, August 2013, ~131,000 miles
Got a new set of BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2 tires installed. Compared to the crap tires that were on the car when I got it, these were a massive improvement in performance. Although next time I think I'll look for something with a stiffer sidewall for better transient/turn-in response. (And not to rub it in, but I love the fact that here in Phoenix, I can run High Performance Summer category tires all year round.)

Bought New Spare Tire/Wheel, August 2013, ~131,000 miles
Finally got around to finding a decently priced spare tire that works with the V6 MT's larger diameter rotors. (Embarrassed to admit that I drove around for 2 years without a spare tire. But I DID at least have a can of Fix A Flat in the trunk!)

Replaced Window Tint, August 2013, ~131,000 miles
The window tint on the rear window was getting wavy and hard to see out of. And the driver's window had some scratches on it. So I removed the tint and installed some fresh tint. This is necessary in Phoenix.
eBay window tint. 35% for front, 20% for all other windows

Body Work, September 2013, ~133,000 miles
After a minor hit and run fender bender I had to have some work done on the left front corner of my car. Replaced front bumper cover, front left fender, and a bunch of little support brackets and clips, and had the bumper and fender painted, with a blend to the driver's door.


CAPA certified bumper cover from eBay, primered. Looked like it could have come from the same mold as the bumper I took off. Seems, date stamp locations, etc., all identical.
I tried buying these "Various MFR" inner fender liners and splash shield from RockAuto.com (HO1249117, HO1248117, and HO1228117), but they were complete crap. They were flimsy, which I could deal with, but the mounting holes didn't even line up. I ended up trashing these and buying the OEM parts from Honda.
Fender, primered, Honda - 04630-SDN-A90ZZ
I did all of the remove and replace work on this project to save a few bucks. I installed the new fender and had the body shop spray the fender and blend to the door, and they sprayed the bumper off of the car to get the best coverage. Then I installed the bumper and the rest of the trim. I've got other Honda part numbers for the brackets I replaced if anyone is really interested. But I figure most people would just let the body shop buy these parts, so I'm not going to bother listing them individually.

Installed New Wiper Blades, October 2013, ~133,000 miles
Trico 16-260 NeoForm Driver's Side Wiper Blade with Teflon. I got this from RockAuto.com on a closeout item sale for only $3.82!
Trico 16-180 NeoForm Passenger's Side Wiper Blade with Teflon. I got this from RockAuto.com on a closeout item sale for only $3.80!

Maintenance, February 2014, ~138,000 miles
Engine Air Filter, WIX - 49063
Hood support struts, Monroe (2) - 901670

September 2014, ~149,000 miles
Finished removing the rest of the pin striping from the body panels that didn't get repainted during the body work.

New Key, November 2014, ~151,000 miles
Bought a new complete key from eBay to replace a cracked key case that I have. The metal key shank actually broke free from the plastic case, so the remote part of the case would periodically fall off of the metal key while I was driving. Not ideal. Bought the new complete key (because it was cheaper than buying just the blank key), had the key cut to match at ACE Hardware, and transferred the keyless entry remote and the RFID chip from the broken key into the new key case. New working key for less than $50.

Installed iPod Mount, February 2015, ~155,000 miles
Installed a Vena Clip Grip dash mount to hold my iPod in place for easier music selection/playback. It's not exactly how I envisioned installing it, but it was the best I could do with the adjustments available with this mount. The main reason I went with this one was because it was cheap, and it was rated to have very good sticking power, which it does!


March 2015, ~157,000 miles
Bought and installed some new LED lights for the 31mm map and dome lights (3175) since the previous ones had died several months ago. I have additional info on this change in another post, here.
Topped off the clutch fluid in the master cylinder
Rechecked the torque of all of the spark plugs. I tightened each one a few degrees with a beam torque wrench, and they were all right in the range of 13-15 ft-lbs.

Other Miscellaneous Items
Many oil changes.
I don't remember when I did this, but I replaced several burned out bulbs in the seat heater and moonroof switches with these units from Radio Shack - 272-1092. I learned later that they are Neo Wedge Type A (T3) units, so next time I think I will seek out LED versions to replace them.
Replaced the battery with a CostCo battery. Maybe even twice. For some reason I don't have receipts for this.

Gas Mileage
I'm one of those nerds that tracks my gas mileage religiously. Mostly because I like looking at data.
Gas Mileage for a Full Tank Refill
Minimum - 18.5 mpg
Average - 22.4 mpg
Maximum - 29.2 mpg
Average 15.3 gallons per refill, with 342 miles per tank.
I once managed to go 435 miles on one tank.
One time it took 16.8 gallons to refill. This was a little bit too close for my comfort.

Blue points/line is mpg at each refill
Magenta line is lifetime average mpg
Black line is a rolling average of the last 10 tanks
First red vertical line is when I installed new clutch, timing belt, etc.
Second red vertical line is when I installed new plugs
In March of 2012 I moved into my new house, which has a much shorter/more city driving commute. You can see the reduction in average mpg.
 

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Bought Manuals, September, 2011 ~104,000 miles
Main Helm Factory Service Manual - 61SDA08
Helm V6 Supplement - 61SDA09
This was before I learned that these manuals were available in PDF format. Although it IS still really helpful to have the hard copy to do quick references in the garage when I'm already dirty.
I also bought a reproduction Owner's Manual from eBay to keep in the glove box for quick reference items.
Joe, very impressive on how you keep records, and keep on top of things. Thank you for writing it up. I look forward to updates.

Just wanted to give a shout out to the paragraph above that I am quoting....some guys buy a car with the owner's manual and never read it- you sought out additional service manuals and use them!

(And not to rub it in, but I love the fact that here in Phoenix, I can run High Performance Summer category tires all year round.)
Oh yeah?! Well, .....I got nothing. :(
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Replaced Coolant Overflow Tubing/Parts, January 2016, ~166,000
So, I was having a small coolant leak at the top of the radiator where the overflow tubing connects.

Hoping it would be something simple/cheap, I decided to replace the 90 degree tubing connecting to the radiator. When I disassembled it I also noticed that the plastic overflow tank cap was cracked, so I decided to just replace all of these small components.

Code:
19103-RCA-A00	3	TUBE A, RESERVE TANK      2.65
19106-PA0-020	5	JOINT, RESERVE TANK       1.90
19102-PM5-A00	2	CAP, RESERVE TANK         1.57
19108-PCX-000	6	WASHER, RESERVE TANK      1.78
19104-RCA-A00	4	HOSE, RESERVE TANK        2.72
Total cost was about $11, and as you can see from the picture above, I haven't had any coolant leaking from that spot in the last three months.
 

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After a minor hit and run fender bender I had to have some work done on the left front corner of my car.
Sounds like they didn't catch you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No. Some idiot essentially changed lanes right into me while we were virtually stopped at a red light. When I looked to my right to see if I could pull off into the Burger King parking lot, he pulled a u-turn and took off. By the time I tried to go after him the gap he left had already closed up with more traffic and I was screwed!
 

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That hose actually expands over time and it starts leaking. So it will happen again. I had to put worm gear hose clamps on both ends. If you ever have to do work around that area and just pull up and swing the overflow tank out of the way, it will leak once more. I had to re-position the hose clamps again once more recently to create a new seal to stop the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When it was time for some new tires I decided it was also time to upgrade the wheels. I wanted something that would allow my to go with a wider tire with a shorter, straighter sidewall for better turn-in response, without adding much if any weight. After a long search I ended up getting a set of Enkei Tuning Fujin wheels in 18x8 with a 50mm offset, and weighing 18.7lbs. I paired the wheels with a set of Bridgestone S-04 Pole Positions in 235/40-18 size.

My previous set was the OEM 17x6.5 6-6 wheels with 215/50-17 tires (don't remember the model right now). The average weight of the set I took off was 44.1lbs with a range of 1.2lbs between the lightest and heaviest wheel/tire. I weighed the new combo and all four came in at exactly 44.4 lbs. Nice and consistent. :)

I've had them on for almost 2 months now, and I love them! I almost wanted to stick with OEM wheels, but to get something in this size, the weight starts to get quite a bit higher. Here's a simple glamor shot (I'm no photographer).
 
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Overflow tubing....

Replaced Coolant Overflow Tubing/Parts, January 2016, ~166,000
So, I was having a small coolant leak at the top of the radiator where the overflow tubing connects.

Hoping it would be something simple/cheap, I decided to replace the 90 degree tubing connecting to the radiator. When I disassembled it I also noticed that the plastic overflow tank cap was cracked, so I decided to just replace all of these small components.

Code:
19103-RCA-A00	3	TUBE A, RESERVE TANK      2.65
19106-PA0-020	5	JOINT, RESERVE TANK       1.90
19102-PM5-A00	2	CAP, RESERVE TANK         1.57
19108-PCX-000	6	WASHER, RESERVE TANK      1.78
19104-RCA-A00	4	HOSE, RESERVE TANK        2.72
Total cost was about $11, and as you can see from the picture above, I haven't had any coolant leaking from that spot in the last three months.
You're not supposed to run that hose up to the neck? Mine is leaking as well but it looks as if it's an after market hose. I bought the Honda hose and am looking to put it on tomorrow. Thanks!
 

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Have you had the common 3rd gear "grinding' issue at all? You've done quite a bit of work but I saw you were still putting in OEM Honda MTF.

I also have a 6-6 and the previous owner never had the recall work done on the gearset, so I'm forced to run Syncromesh fluid (which has worked like a charm, 20,000 miles not a single grind).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You're not supposed to run that hose up to the neck? Mine is leaking as well but it looks as if it's an after market hose. I bought the Honda hose and am looking to put it on tomorrow. Thanks!
I'm not sure what you mean by that question. The hose should be hooked up just as it's shown in my picture. From the radiator neck overflow nozzle to the top of the overflow tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have you had the common 3rd gear "grinding' issue at all? You've done quite a bit of work but I saw you were still putting in OEM Honda MTF.

I also have a 6-6 and the previous owner never had the recall work done on the gearset, so I'm forced to run Syncromesh fluid (which has worked like a charm, 20,000 miles not a single grind).
Yes, I did have some 3rd gear "reluctance" and the very rare "pop-out." It was rare enough that I lived with it for quite a while. I did look into what it would cost to have the 3rd gear set replaced when I did the clutch, but the added cost was more than it was worth to me given how rarely it gave me trouble. But I did recently switch to the GM Synchromesh FM fluid since I was getting close to fluid replacement time anyway. It really does make a huge difference in the 3rd gear issue. And now that it's been in there for a few months I guess I really should add it to the list of things I've done here. :)
 

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Yes, I did have some 3rd gear "reluctance" and the very rare "pop-out." It was rare enough that I lived with it for quite a while. I did look into what it would cost to have the 3rd gear set replaced when I did the clutch, but the added cost was more than it was worth to me given how rarely it gave me trouble. But I did recently switch to the GM Synchromesh FM fluid since I was getting close to fluid replacement time anyway. It really does make a huge difference in the 3rd gear issue. And now that it's been in there for a few months I guess I really should add it to the list of things I've done here. :)
Yup, I'm super glad I made the switch. I bought my car (unknowing of the issue) and put in the OEM fluid, but before long I hopped on the Syncromesh bandwagon - especially once it got worse in the winter and started happening every time I drove the car. Now it feels a little "clunky" when I go into gear but it's not too bad, and the grinding\popping issues haven't happened once since I did a drain and fill.

How much did replacing the clutch cost you by the way? And what did you replace it with? The Luk one that's pretty common? I'm at 162k miles on what I assume to be the original clutch (didn't get any info from previous owner when I bought the car at 130k). And while it's still holding up good and I haven't had any issues, I know that will only last for so long.
 

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Think I'm going to switch to the syncromesh stuff as well. I'm 10k away from a fluid swap and it's not going into first gear like it should with new fluid
 

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Okay, maybe that's one V6 that I'd consider having. That car is pretty sweet, and I like that you do the common sense upgrades like the TL-S sway bars. I bet it's a blast to drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How much did replacing the clutch cost you by the way? And what did you replace it with? The Luk one that's pretty common?
Yep. I used the Luk clutch kit 08-047 from PartsGeek.com. The total for the Luk clutch kit and some other parts like the clutch release fork, pivot ball bolt, grease, etc. was just over $200. I think the prices have gone up some since I did it. But the real savings are in the labor, if you have the time and tools to do it yourself. I also spent about $70 to buy the engine support bracket from Harbor Freight, which is currently holding up the engine in my CR-V while I wait for the auto tranny to come back from the shop. So I got double use out of it!
 

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Yep. I used the Luk clutch kit 08-047 from PartsGeek.com. The total for the Luk clutch kit and some other parts like the clutch release fork, pivot ball bolt, grease, etc. was just over $200. I think the prices have gone up some since I did it. But the real savings are in the labor, if you have the time and tools to do it yourself. I also spent about $70 to buy the engine support bracket from Harbor Freight, which is currently holding up the engine in my CR-V while I wait for the auto tranny to come back from the shop. So I got double use out of it!
Well lucky you, that's good you're able to pull it yourself but you do need the investment in tools\time to pull it off. I have neither sadly, nor the space to even do a swap like that. So 12+hr's @ $90\hr it is!

Still, I'm glad the clutches are so cheap. And it's unfortunate that so many other things need to be done "while we're already in there....".
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Some New Updates...

It's been a while since I filled in some of the minor stuff I've done to my car this year. Mostly this is just to help me keep track of things, but hopefully there are some other tidbits in here that may help others as well.

Repaired the Passenger Seat Release Lever, November 2011, ~107,000 miles
This was so long ago I almost forgot to list it on here. In the Coupe, the passenger seat release lever not only tilts the seatback forward, but it also slides the seat forward to make it easier to access the back seat. The release point felt tight, and sluggish, so I took it apart and repaired it. I posted a thread on DriveAccord about the repair along with a DIY way back when I did it. You can see the details here.

Installed New Windshield Wipers, March 2017, ~182,000 miles
Anco RainyDay wipers from RockAuto closeout sale. RDB26 for $1.93 and RDB18 for $1.42. (If you register at RockAuto.com and enter all of your cars' information, they will send periodic emails with closeout items that apply to all of your vehicles. You can get some good deals this way sometimes.)

Installed New Pioneer Speakers, May 2017, ~184,000 miles
Front Speakers: Pioneer TS-A1676R 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speaker Pair. From Amazon.com for only $28. (I checked the price history on camelcamelcamel.com and then set a price watch near the low end of the historical pricing, and it sent me an email when the price dropped that low. It's great!)
Front Speaker Adapters: Xscorpion HSA-6554 5-1/4"-6-1/2" Speaker Adapter for 2003-up Honda Accord (pair). I got these from Amazon.com for $9.95.
Rear Speakers: Pioneer TS-A6966R 6" x 9" 3-Way Speaker, Pair. Also from Amazon with Camel price notification for $42.

The Xscorpion adapters worked perfectly for the front speakers. I pulled some of the foam backing off of the factory speakers and stuck it to the adapters to make sure I didn't get any rattling. But the adapters were so snug that I actually had to pull some sections of foam back off to get it to clip into the door. The new speakers came with wire leads that had spade connections to connect to the new speakers, and plain wire ends on the other end. Rather than spending another $10 for a wiring adapter, I just snipped the wiring socket off of the stock speaker and then soldered the wiring adapters to it.

Here is the wiring socket in the stock speaker. I just snipped the plastic with diagonal snips.


Here is a picture that shows the stock wiring harness plugged into the relocated speaker socket. You can see the heat shrink tubing to cover the wiring, and I zip tied it to an existing door harness to ensure that it didn't rattle against anything.


The rear speakers were easier to install as they didn't require any mounting brackets. I still had to pull the wiring socket off of the stock speakers and rewire it as I did in the front. And I guess I also had to trip some of the plastic off of the speaker grille/covers. The new speakers have a taller lip that interfered with the plastic cover snapping into place, but it was fairly easy to trim off with a box cutter. I forgot to get a picture of the socket before I removed it from the speaker, but you can see below where it was mounted.


Overall I'm very happy with the speakers. Not a HUGE improvement, but definitely noticeable. Just generally a cleaner sound than the stock speakers. I like to turn my bass up a bit (+3 on stock radio, sometimes +4), but with the old speakers I would have to turn it down to zero when I was listening to talk radio. With the extra bass it just really muddied the speech. But this is no longer an issue with the new speakers.

Installed New Alternator, May 2017, ~184,000 miles
My battery light kicked on while driving home from work, and after some troubleshooting, came to the conclusion that my alternator was dead. Took it to Advance Auto Parts to have it tested it, and it was clearly not right. The second the machine turned on the load, you could just hear it bog down, desperately trying to maintain speed. It's like it was overproducing so much that it was bogging down the test rig. Anyway, I got a lifetime replacement CarQuest unit from Advance Auto for $130 minus 30% off coupon ($97 total with tax). Installation was actually very easy. The manual says you have to remove one of the radiator fans, but I got it out pretty easily without removing anything. All I had to do was pull the power steering reservoir out of its mount and gently push the PS and AC hoses out of the way. Easy!

Although right after I completed this installation I started getting an annoying squeaking noise when the car is started up cold. The sound definitely matches engine speed, and it sounds like it could be a bearing squeak. But I guess it could also be a slipping belt. It goes away fairly quickly, so I haven't had a chance to fully diagnose it. Hopefully it wasn't a mistake to go with the cheap alternator. But at least it's got a lifetime warranty!

Replaced Missing Inner Door Weatherstrip, July 2017, ~186,000 miles
I've always felt that the noise level in the area of the driver's B pillar was very high in my car. At first I thought it was due to the door gasket shrinking and pulling away from the door frame, as you can see in this picture:


So I finally broke down and cut the door gasket in the middle of the bottom to get enough slack to reposition the gasket all the way into the corner (see picture below). I figured the wind noise would be lowest and farthest away from me at that point, compared to right next to my ear. Unfortunately, this didn't help much if at all.


When I was installing my speakers I also cleaned my door panels while they were out of the car. While doing this, I noticed that one of them had a rubber gasket along the top edge and the other didn't! The way these are installed, they are very hard to see when the door panels are in place, because they attach under the lip of the door panel. I ordered a WEATHERSTRIP, L. FR. DOOR (INNER) from Majestic Honda for about $15, and installed it. This made my car SOOO much quieter!! I am kicking myself that I didn't notice this sooner.


I think that's it for now. Sorry for the huge update...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Valve Adjustment

I finally got the chance to do some needed work over the Labor Day weekend. I got the car at about 104K miles, presumably because the previous owner didn't want to do the timing belt job, so I'm pretty sure the valves have never been adjusted. I also replaced the PCV valve, checked the EGR actuator, and did some cleaning while I was in there. Nothing too serious.

Valve Adjustment with New Intake Gaskets, September 2017, ~188,000 miles
FEL-PRO Intake Plenum Gasket Kit, MS96410 from RoackAuto.com for ~$18
FEL-PRO Valve Cover Gasket Set, VS50607R from RoackAuto.com for ~$26
BECK/ARNLEY PCV Valve, 045-0358 from RockAuto.com for ~$12

There was a little bit of varnish on everything, but for the most part no thick build-ups. I did clean the throttle body where the tolerances are the tightest, but I didn't bother cleaning anywhere that the casting roughness was taller/higher than the buildup. The thing that bothered me the most were the little black chunks at the bottom of the intake manifold. I definitely cleaned that stuff out.





Pretty much all of the valves were a little bit on the loose side, but not horrible. I didn't take the time to measure the existing gaps, but most of them were out of spec enough to allow my 1-thousandth over "no-go" feeler in the gap. All of my spark plugs were nice and snug, and looked pretty good. It did seem to have a rattle at part throttle acceleration. I haven't driven it enough since the work to really say for certain if this is gone or not. It does SEEM smoother and quieter, but that could just be my false perception after all of that work!

Here are the EGR actuator ports:



And here are what my spark plugs look like after about 60k miles. Let me know if you see signs of anything bad that I'm not seeing.

 
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If you got down to the intake runners, you'll see that they are caked with oil/fuel/carbon mix. All that gunk is from EGR and PCV valve returning oil/exhaust/fuel back into the intake path for reburn. I did a similar job over the weekend, but not valve adjustment. I decided not to touch the valves because I don't have any issues with the engine but I did have power loss. I gained quite a bit of torque back by cleaning the entire intake path. Did you remove the EGR pipe in the intake manifold? That exposes a port underneath that you should clean. Hopefully you torqued down all intake manifold bolts also. good job.
 

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Honda Buff
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467 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yeah, I saw the oily film on the intake runners. And I did try to wipe it off, but this is where the casting was so rough that the film was just filling in the low spots. Even with some denatured alcohol on my rag I couldn't get a significant amount to come off of the surface. If the film is that thin and tenacious, it's not going to be effecting the air flow at all, so I just left it alone. I also really didn't want to remove the fuel rails and/or risk anything getting into the combustion chambers.

No, I didn't remove the EGR port cover assembly thing. I thought about it, but given the condition of everything else I didn't expect it to be in any worse shape than the EGR actuator port. If I really get anxious about it it's really easy to remove the top cover and take a look at it. But I probably won't. :)
 
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