Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well to start off, my heat was a bit cold and it's really cold out. Its a 10 mile drive to work through the city so I figured it was normal for the heat to be a little cool. Someone told me to replace my thermostat so I did and now it gets way to hot. I have a digital gauge that tells me the temp and before I put it in it would get to about 181 F going down the highway. If i turned off the heat it would get to about 195-200 F. After the new thermostat it goes to about 215-220 F with the heat on full and when i turn the heat off it jumps to about 240 F and the needle on the dash is getting up past the half way. I've never seen it get that high, even sitting in traffic at 90 degrees out. So anyway I was a little low on coolant so I topped it off and its still gets very hot. The upper hose is extremely hot and the lower hose is ice cold. But AFTER i turn off the car the lower hose gets hot. even after driving 30 miles on the interstate. The radiator cap was slightly warm. I took it off right away with no problem. And yes I know you shouldnt do that, but there was coolant right to the top of the radiator but very little steam. It didn't make a sound when I opened it. I did go with an aftermarket thermostat.. Anyone have any suggestions? And can someone tell me what the normal operating temp should be?
 

·
Solving Problems Daily
Joined
·
89 Posts
Well to start off, my heat was a bit cold and it's really cold out. Its a 10 mile drive to work through the city so I figured it was normal for the heat to be a little cool. Someone told me to replace my thermostat so I did and now it gets way to hot. I have a digital gauge that tells me the temp and before I put it in it would get to about 181 F going down the highway. If i turned off the heat it would get to about 195-200 F. After the new thermostat it goes to about 215-220 F with the heat on full and when i turn the heat off it jumps to about 240 F and the needle on the dash is getting up past the half way. I've never seen it get that high, even sitting in traffic at 90 degrees out. So anyway I was a little low on coolant so I topped it off and its still gets very hot. The upper hose is extremely hot and the lower hose is ice cold. But AFTER i turn off the car the lower hose gets hot. even after driving 30 miles on the interstate. The radiator cap was slightly warm. I took it off right away with no problem. And yes I know you shouldnt do that, but there was coolant right to the top of the radiator but very little steam. It didn't make a sound when I opened it. I did go with an aftermarket thermostat.. Anyone have any suggestions? And can someone tell me what the normal operating temp should be?
What year is your car?
 

·
need 6 speed!
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
did you bleed the system after you replaced the thermostat?
was it an oem thermostat?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I opened the bleeder valve on the thermostat housing and fluid came out with no air bubbles so i figured it was good. am I wrong? and I got the thermostat from Napa Auto Parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Where is your digital temp sensor located? Those readings may be ok depending what it is really sensing. Do your fans run when it gets "too hot"?
Your new stat could be defective. I'd try an OEM stat next.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's actually the scangauge II tool. It plugs in under the dash and tells you everything about your car. My fans do not turn on. The top of the radiator doesn't even really get hot. I use to burn myself on it all the time so I know something is wrong. I probably will try an OEM thermostat tomorrow. Would having air or not enough coolant in the system cause something like this? Or is the t-stat just bad?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,595 Posts
Dumb question, which way did you install the stat? Pellet side towards engine, right?

It does sound like air. You filled it with the bleeder open till the fluid came out, correct. Not while it's running.

Get a Honda stat, aftermarket is junk IMO for these. They don't open progressively as the Honda stats do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Low coolant level can result in overheating problems as it will not circulate properly, but if you are getting liquid coolant out the bleeder and the radiator is full to the top, then the sytem is filled properly.
Your symptoms sound like the thermostat is not opening. You could remove it from the car and drop it into a pan of boiling water and see if it physically opens. I don't know if it is possible to install the NAPA stat backward or not, but that would cause the symptoms you have. The sensor end goes toward the intake manifold.
If the stat has an air vent built in it should be installed in the up position.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did install it correctly. the radiator is full and fluid is coming out of the bleeder. Now whats wierd is i have had it running in the garage at idle. and it will not overheat. the stat opens and the lower hose gets hot and the fans turn on. but when im driving the hose is not even warm and the fans do not turn on at all.....
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,595 Posts
The fans should never need to come on while driving the air being forced into the rad.
The OEM stat should start to open at 176 and fully open at 194. Closing is the opposite. If you didn't watch the temps it was opening, it could be opening too early. But, since you said the temp was running at 181 or thereabouts I'd say it was working ok.

The fans normally come on around 200-205, the switch in the stat housing is for the fans.

Before you put the stat in, the car had no issues other than poor heater output? If so....

Put the old stat back in and see what happens. I've never liked non oem stats for any import car. Been burned before by them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yea before I put the stat in there were no problems. It just wouldn't heat up real fast. I'll go pick up a stat from Honda and slap it in. I'm not real worried right now. I can drive with the heat on full and it won't overheat. I just dont wany any surprises when it gets warm outside again. Thanks for the help and all the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Auto cooling systems have to be designed to work in all climates including 110 degree summer conditions. In the winter the radiators are very efficient and the upper hose can be hot while the lower hose can be cold. The thermostat needs very little cold water from the radiator to maintain the 180 degree engine operating temperature in the winter.
I agree with Fredsvt on using OEM Honda thermostats.
Regarding you original lack of heat problem, you might want to check the heater water control valve in the hose in front of the firewall to see if the control cable is moving the valve to the full open position (angled toward the front of the car) when you set the control knob to max heat. The valve should stroke aprox 90 degrees from open to closed.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think you are on to something. With the heat off the control valve arm is pointing pretty much directly down. When i turn it all the way to hot it only goes probably 45 degrees toward the front of the car....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
If the valve arm is pointing aprox 45 degrees toward the front, it would be correct for max heat (full open). That should not be causing your low heat problem. Not sure why it only goes part way closed, but the heater and AC are computer controlled and the temperature control knob is not directly connected to the heating valve. I would still recommend installing a Honda thermostat next.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So your saying the little arm pointing down is not all the way closed? There is some cable left too when i turn it all the way to cool. Is that not normal? I am going to put a Honda stat in sometime. If the valve is all the way closed should the outlet hose from the heater core be cold? When I have it set to cool with no A/C in the summer the air coming out is a little warmer than outside... And the A/C isnt that cold, even after I recharged it. Everything's starting to go wrong with the car. I need a new tranny next. Third one! ;). It jerks very hard in first gear.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,595 Posts
take the cable off the valve, can you move it through it's normal range with little effort?
Also, put the hvac to face vents, max heat setting.
manually open the valve, do you get around 140 out the vents? Do both heater hoses get nice and hot. You should see engine op temp going in, slightly cooler coming out.
Now turn the temp to full cold and close the heater valve, do the hoses to the core go cold and the inside air get cold?

If you're not getting full heat or full cool, you'll need to get the codes out of the system. Even the manual hvac can flash codes on the lights on that panel.
You could have another issue, and not an engine related one (other than that Napa t-stat!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Both the hoses get hot and when i turn it to cool it gets cold, but it is only about 15 degrees outside. I'm confused on the codes. What codes? If all else fails, I can just put in the old t-stat and it will go back to the way it was.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top