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Just bought a pre-owned 2013 Accord Sport with 38 k miles. I'm in the Chicago area so it is pretty cold. The car is acting like the thermostat is sticking. It sat for a while this morning running and the temp gage barely moved above the C mark. After about 20 minutes of driving the gage finally moved to normal. Did it again after car sat and cooled down. .?? Can't believe it wold have thermostat issues already. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Happened to me last night... It was windy 20 degrees out. Drove and got up to normal temp. Got to where I needed to be and sat for 5 mins, the thermostat dropped. I had the heat and fan on high, fresh air mode. I believe its because the additional cooling from the fan taking in cold air. It takes the engine go up to normal operating temp even longer if you drive and have heat and fan on high.


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Dude, the car will take forever to warm up if it just sits there.

Your thermostat is fine, just drive it after you let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute and it will warm up much faster than that. It was about 20 degrees in Albany this morning, my car was blowing warm air within 2 minutes.

Congrats on your new-to-you accord.

Edit: just saw that your were driving it. Keep an eye on it, if it continues to be a problem, you have a warranty. Good Luck
 

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I'm surprised it would drop down toward C even in cold conditions... I was told the temperature gauge isn't directly proportional to the actual coolant temp since modern engines run at very high temperatures for efficiency. The needle is in the center when you're around the normal temperature range for the engine even though the temperature is fluctuating. Maybe Honda didn't do enough testing when programming the needle?
 

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Happened to me last night... It was windy 20 degrees out. Drove and got up to normal temp. Got to where I needed to be and sat for 5 mins, the thermostat dropped. I had the heat and fan on high, fresh air mode. I believe its because the additional cooling from the fan taking in cold air. It takes the engine go up to normal operating temp even longer if you drive and have heat and fan on high.


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Wow, I was going to post about this.

  • Turn car on
  • Let it warm up for 1 min and drive away, turn heat on.
  • Temp gauge moves up about 1/2 to the normal zone, turn heat on and needle drops rapidly..

It does this for a good 15 to 20 minutes WHILE DRIVING. (Low rpm)
I noticed if I give it more throttle the coolant temp doesnt drop as fast..

Is this a problem? I had a camry and that thing was warm within 5 mins, and i NEVER saw the thermostat go down, instead of up
 

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Now that the temps have dropped I also noticed that the 9th gen takes FOREVER to reach operational temps. Ive managed to arrive at my destination and the engine isnt fully warmed up.

This could be a thermostat issue or it could be a double edged sword result of the highly efficient engine and CVT combination. Most of the time, my revs are between 1700 and 1200. The CRV we have requires you to be above 2500 rpm just to keep with the pace of traffic. That car reaches operational temps within half a mile of driving even with the heat on full blast.

Maybe keep it in sport mode for the first bit to keep the revs around 2k or more?:dunno:
 

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Now that the temps have dropped I also noticed that the 9th gen takes FOREVER to reach operational temps. Ive managed to arrive at my destination and the engine isnt fully warmed up.

This could be a thermostat issue or it could be a double edged sword result of the highly efficient engine and CVT combination. Most of the time, my revs are between 1700 and 1200. The CRV we have requires you to be above 2500 rpm just to keep with the pace of traffic. That car reaches operational temps within half a mile of driving even with the heat on full blast.

Maybe keep it in sport mode for the first bit to keep the revs around 2k or more?:dunno:
This. Simply put. Enough said. Nothing more, nothing less.
 

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Out of curiosity, how does an efficient engine relate to a slow warming engine? (serious question)

I also observed that over 6 miles the needle was only half way up!
 

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Out of curiosity, how does an efficient engine relate to a slow warming engine? (serious question)

I also observed that over 6 miles the needle was only half way up!
Lower engine speed = less heat

Same reason for a fast idle when the engine is cold, ie. The engine idles at 1500 vs 750 on a cold start. This accord can cruise and accerate at much much lower engine speeds compared to previous gens thanks to the CVTand boost in torque.
 

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My V6 never gets to halfway on the temp scale. It always seems to max out at around 40% of the way up. Has plenty of heat for the cabin.

By the way, you bought at 2013 with 38,000 miles!??!?!? Was it a taxi or something????
 

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My V6 never gets to halfway on the temp scale. It always seems to max out at around 40% of the way up. Has plenty of heat for the cabin.

By the way, you bought at 2013 with 38,000 miles!??!?!? Was it a taxi or something????
Most likely a salesreps car. One of my vendor reps has a 2013 Fusion that she took delivery of in Feb of 2013, as of 3 weeks ago it had 44,000mi on it. She gets a new car every 60,000mi.

Jay
 

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My V6 never gets to halfway on the temp scale. It always seems to max out at around 40% of the way up. Has plenty of heat for the cabin.

By the way, you bought at 2013 with 38,000 miles!??!?!? Was it a taxi or something????
40% is the normal. Cabin heat is not an issue here, I get heat within a minute of driving, but the issue is how slowly the engine reaches operational temps.
 

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40% is the normal. Cabin heat is not an issue here, I get heat within a minute of driving, but the issue is how slowly the engine reaches operational temps.
How is that an issue? Less heat = higher efficiency. The car hits full operational temperature when the O2 sensor heats up and the car goes into a closed loop.
 

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40% is the normal. Cabin heat is not an issue here, I get heat within a minute of driving, but the issue is how slowly the engine reaches operational temps.
How do you know what is the "proper operational temperature"? You just assume that is the level where is levels out and stays? I don't know myself, but wondering how you know?
 

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How do you know what is the "proper operational temperature"? You just assume that is the level where is levels out and stays? I don't know myself, but wondering how you know?
You can get the temperature from the OBDII connection, get a Bluetooth Adapter and the Torque App on a smart phone and you can see the coolant temperature and a whole lot more!

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Most likely a salesreps car. One of my vendor reps has a 2013 Fusion that she took delivery of in Feb of 2013, as of 3 weeks ago it had 44,000mi on it. She gets a new car every 60,000mi.

Jay
More than likely. I work for a fleet management company, it's nothing to see 100k miles on 2011 vehicles that are released early (read late in 2010). If the car averages 2-3k a month, it adds up quickly.

I notice my car blows warm air before the temp needle gets up to the C. It's funny, because our 2011 Fusion doesn't even turn on the climate control until it's above C.
 

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How is that an issue? Less heat = higher efficiency. The car hits full operational temperature when the O2 sensor heats up and the car goes into a closed loop.
It's an 'issue' because until operational temps are reached the engine is still in a fast idle mode surging forward every time I let go of the brake. This decreases my driving pleasure and makes smooth driving a little harder. I also tell myself to resist hard acceleration until the idle calms down to 750 rpm :thumbsdow

How do you know what is the "proper operational temperature"? You just assume that is the level where is levels out and stays? I don't know myself, but wondering how you know?
You're right, I don't 'know'. But what i do 'know' from being OCD is that the idle will settle down to 750 when the engine is warm and that is usually where the needle sits around 40% up.
 

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It's an 'issue' because until operational temps are reached the engine is still in a fast idle mode surging forward every time I let go of the brake. This decreases my driving pleasure and makes smooth driving a little harder. I also tell myself to resist hard acceleration until the idle calms down to 750 rpm :thumbsdow
That's because the car is in an open loop. The 02 sensor need time to heat up to get accurate readings and optimize fuel consumption. Until that happens the engine uses a base map to protect the engine. Once it gets readings it switches to a closed loop.

Let go of the brake slowly ;)
 

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You can get the temperature from the OBDII connection, get a Bluetooth Adapter and the Torque App on a smart phone and you can see the coolant temperature and a whole lot more!
Do you have some links for these items?

OP,

I would say that if you think you have thermostat problems, then you should have the car checked.
 
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