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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I started to attempt to replace the timing belt on my 2009 honda accord v6 with 222,000 miles on it. When I was taking the belt off, I got ahead of myself and forgot to line up the timing marks with the old belt on. With the old belt off I manually rotated each cam and crank sprockets until they ended up on their marks. I fished the new belt on and manually turned the crank 6 times (3 cam revolutions) with my no resistance besides compression, and my marks all lined up where they should be. When I start the car, it idles terribly and threw 3 misfire codes (P0304, P0305, P0300). Am I off time on the front bank of cylinders? Could I have bent a valve when manually rotating? What are my next steps?
Both cams are lined up on the right side of the marked tooth

Front cam
519706


back cam
519707

Auto part


back cam
519708

Auto part Automotive wheel system Automotive tire Engine


crank shaft
519709

Auto part Metal
 

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have you put a compression tester on the front bank to see what you get?

when you were realigning the cams and the crank did you feel any resistance? did you take the plugs out so you could feel where the pistons were relative to the valves?

if you just rotated the cams around so they lined up without any movement of the crank then I think it is worth sticking a compression tester on each cylinder. See what you get.
 

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Compression test will be the thing to do. When was the last time the spark plugs were replaced?
Have you pulled the plugs and looked at them?

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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If you rotated each cam and crank once around then the crank would be off. It rotates twice to one full rotation of the cams. That is why it is so important to line up before. Applaud you for diving in though; takes some stupidity and lot’s of courage the first time 😂

Compression check will see if you did any damage before redoing your work. Hoping the best for ya!!! Let us know your results; good or bad.
 

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You might be 1 tooth off, especially for the rear cam, if you forgot to mark the old belt and transfer the marks over to the new belt. The fit of the timing belt is extremely tight that requires dialing the rear cam forward a little while installing.

BTW, the oil pump is leaking like crazy.
 

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It's out of time, first. The crank mark is at 12:00. It also looks like the crank seal is leaking. AT that mileage, if conventional oil, at MM intervals the oil pump oring is probably leaking, to replace, the pan has to come off to get the pickup off and pump off the front of the block. If there's oil coming out behind the oil filter area near the block, the pump oring has turned to stone.

There's no point in doing a belt if you don't fix and clean all the oil leaks in there.

If you rotated the cams and crank out of time, there's a good chance of piston to valve contact. Even and hand cranking speeds, there's a chance to bend the valves as they have very small stems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Thanks for the responses everyone. Are there specific numbers of teeth between the cams and the crank? That would be greatly appreciated if those values are known.
I’ll get around to working on the oil seal this weekend. Any tips/tricks to making that process as smooth as possible?
 

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I counted 63 "valleys" in between front and rear cam off my old timing belt. 65 if you count from the front hash mark to the rear hash mark.

I always keep old belts for reference.
 

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I've never had to count teeth. Line the marks up exactly, the cams will stay where they need to, start putting the belt on the crank, keeping it as taut as possible then front cam, water pump, rear cam, tensioner. Sometimes you might have to move the rear cam clockwise to get the teeth to engage so you can have the belt end up taut between the cams and water pump as you rotate the rear ccw to line the marks back up. Put the new tensioner in, tighten the bolts, then pull the pin.

When you rotate it 2 times clockwise, the marks should line right up.

Did you have an oil leak from the back of the engine above and behind the filter housing?
 

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Madiganistan/Chicago
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I also had to rotate the rear cam about 1/8 inch clockwise when I did my odyssey v6 timing belt recently ....it wasn't happening for me without that tip
 

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For those of us who don't do it all day, marking the old belt then transferring the old marks over to the new belt is the best bet to not make a mistake. I had to rotate the rear cam forward maybe half a tooth myself to fit on the new belt. If marking of the belt wasn't done, then the new belt would fit a little loose on the rear cam onto the next tooth, ending in 1 tooth off. I have seen this mistake on both the Odyssey and acura TL forums. Start engine, clacking sound + rough running.

That has to be the oil pump leaking. Mine looked just like that before I fixed it last year, toward the front passenger side tip of the oil pan.
 

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Consider manually cranking the crankshaft by hand and matching up the mark on the crank then see where TDC#1 mark is at for the front cam and where the 1 mark is for the rear cam first. You might be off on both cams. Sorry, I'm not going to tear open the passenger side of the engine just for you.
 

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From your last year:
I counted 63 "valleys" in between front and rear cam off my old timing belt. 65 if you count from the front hash mark to the rear hash mark.

I counted same as yours 63 "valleys" exclude the #1 mark front and rear cam top notch. if count include will have 65. Maybe both front and rear have 1 teeth off.
 

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That's why I said you line up the crank first and where the marks are at for front and rear cams. Unless you pull real tight, you might be off in the front, and unless you pull super tight using inhuman strength or you allow slack for the idler pulley plus water pump and use a 17mm to dial the rear cam forward a bit, you are 99% 1 tooth off in the rear.
 

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ing inhuman strength or you allow slack for the idler pulley plus water pump and use a 17mm to dial the rear cam forward a bit, you are 99% 1 tooth off in the rear.
Thank you for the quick response. Like a friend cheer you up. I am always DIY . fixed Toyota 2za-fe timing chain line up without any headache. but for Honda, every parts and step keep me crazy, I will try to 1 tooth forward on the rear cam . if not , I will go to local junk yard to line the timing belt on the existing engine. this time will line every gear to the TDC. Most youtube never said and the video line old to new , until I saw same DIY did that, I know I messed up. Too trust youtube ,and too trust my experience on Toyota chain.

I moved rear cam forward 1 teeth. let my wife helped hold that, manual turned 2 cycles, rear cam had 1 teeth forward of the line ,crank engine, started ,missfire again.

I think need to go to junk yard to see the result. and prepare to get a engine head include the valve. junk yard charge $150 for the cylinder head. whole engine $300.
 

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New to the forum here.
I started to attempt to replace the timing belt on my 2009 honda accord v6 with 222,000 miles on it. When I was taking the belt off, I got ahead of myself and forgot to line up the timing marks with the old belt on. With the old belt off I manually rotated each cam and crank sprockets until they ended up on their marks. I fished the new belt on and manually turned the crank 6 times (3 cam revolutions) with my no resistance besides compression, and my marks all lined up where they should be. When I start the car, it idles terribly and threw 3 misfire codes (P0304, P0305, P0300). Am I off time on the front bank of cylinders? Could I have bent a valve when manually rotating? What are my next steps?
Both cams are lined up on the right side of the marked tooth

Front cam
View attachment 519706

back cam
View attachment 519707
View attachment 519707

back cam
View attachment 519708
View attachment 519708

crank shaft
View attachment 519709
View attachment 519709
Want to know ,what is your final solution for the timing belt change?
 
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