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Only toe is adjustable on the front without buying adjustable suspension pieces. Only toe was out on mine so that was good.

Rear requires (3) sets of adjustable arms to get all the alignments done. There are (3) arms per side that need to be changed in the rear. (2) sets of what you have and (1) set with the ball joint end for camber adjust.
If I had not put the Tiens on I wouldn't even consider getting an alignment. The car was aligned by a dealer in Southern Cal 50K miles ago when they replaced the front lower ball joints. It drives straight and tire wear is perfect, the old tires that came with the car were wearing like the alignment was just fine.
I just got back from the local Goodyear, talked with one of the owners and told him the whole story with the suspension mods, his response "no problem, the lowering springs adds some negative camber and they can get it back to factory specs". When I told him I really like how the car goes through the curves, he mentioned the added negative camber helps with that, but of course the tires won't have even wear. Other than the rear adjustable upper control arms that I'm installing, it is going to Goodyear next week for the alignment.
 

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Just order the bushings and mounting brackets from a dealer, or online parts dealer. It is not much money and you'll get the correct fitting parts. Problem solved.
I already got the sway bar and Moog bushings for the TL bar. But which brackets do I need? The one for the TL or the Accord?
 

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I already got the sway bar and Moog bushings for the TL bar. But which brackets do I need? The one for the TL or the Accord?
To hell with those Moog bushings, just get the bushings and the brackets from the dealer that are the correct ones for that sway bar.
 

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ziptie princess
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he mentioned the added negative camber helps with that, but of course the tires won't have even wear.
this again

my car has -2* of camber in the front and -3.5* in the rear and tire wear is dead even all the way across. toe matters more than camber as long as camber isn't extreme.

hell, my 240 has something like -4/-6; the front is fine and the rear wears a little faster on the inside because it got an eyeball alignment before going to the track and it's toed out... means i just flip the tires around and burn off the other side, nbd
 

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this again

my car has -2* of camber in the front and -3.5* in the rear and tire wear is dead even all the way across. toe matters more than camber as long as camber isn't extreme.

hell, my 240 has something like -4/-6; the front is fine and the rear wears a little faster on the inside because it got an eyeball alignment before going to the track and it's toed out... means i just flip the tires around and burn off the other side, nbd
I'm not an alignment guy, so I really don't know what you can get away with. He also mentioned BMWs have quite a bit of negative camber and when I read reviews on high speed rated tires the German car crowd, often BMW owners seem to complain a lot about early tire wear. Doesn't necessarily mean the two things are related, but......

They did the alignment on Tuesday and adjusted the toe and camber, everything is in spec so I should be good. Heading up to Portland this week so I'm looking forward to seeing how the car does on the drive, the ride is stiffer with Tein springs for sure but it handles great and love the extra exceleration with the ported intake system.
 

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These parts fit perfect on my 2006 Honda Accord V6 6-speed. The Difference in sway bar size is surprising. Car definitely corners a little flatter now. Maybe even a touch more responsive. I like it.


Rear Sway (20mm): TL Type-S 6MT
52300-SEP-A11 - SPRING, RR. STABILIZER - 1x
52308-S3M-A00 - HOLDER - 2x
52306-SEP-A11 - BUSH, RR. STABILIZER HOLDER - 2x ORDERED
20191231_184735.jpg
 

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Tighten it up more with the FSB!

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 

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I always wondered about the 17mm RSB for a 7G V6 sedan. Gkad I found this thread. Probably going to be one if my only mods to the car.
May I suggest an Injen CAI..

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I always wondered about the 17mm RSB for a 7G V6 sedan. Gkad I found this thread. Probably going to be one if my only mods to the car.
My Sedan had the 13 or 14mm in the rear. I took a 6th gen Accord V6 rear sway bar; which is 17mm from the junkyard with brackets. Fit perfectly and was 20 bucks for everything. Also can feel good recycling than buying new for how many cars I own.
 

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ziptie princess
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the nice thing about the 6th gen stuff fitting is that means 3.2 cl/tl stuff also fits

it’s perfect if you are a cheapskate like me and don’t want to spend like $100 on a tl-s rear sway bar for your $800 accord, you can just buy a 19mm cl-s one instead for $30

still understeers but it’s better than nothing
 

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I am looking at ordering the Type-S sway bars and was wondering if, at this age, there is anything else I should consider replacing?

I figure I'll just knock out the end links when they're off anyway, front and back and I'll be doing the front lower arm bushings too.

Is there any benefit to going with the Type-S Endlinks vs the Accord P/N?
I think someone said the Type-S ones are a little beefier


Is there any reason to consider replacing the subframe isolators since they'll be coming out anyway?


Also, where have people found the best prices on their parts? I have looked at Acura Parts Warehouse, but if there is any dealer close to the Chicago area that has good deals, Local pickup might be ideal.

Thanks
 

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I would order the Moog "problem solver" links. You can grease them and they are beefier than the Honda ones. Since I have those, never had to replace them...I simply grease them a little at every tire change (summer -> winter and vice-versa).
 

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I replaced one of my front links with a valucraft from autozone a few years ago. No problems and it was so cheap it was almost free.
 
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