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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Background
1998 Accord 2.3L auto
163,000 - purchased at 153,000
Tranny slipped (1st to 2nd) when purchased - multiple fluid changes appear to have eliminated this

Now, when the car is cold (within the first 2 or 3 minutes of startup), if I start up a hill at low engine load the car seems to bog down and not want to go. The RPM's drop, with no CEL, and no transmission slippage (RPM rise) and I can (so far) force my way through it by mashing the accelerator - it seems to recover and take off. Almost like a clogged fuel filter, which I understand these cars don't have, right? It clears up after a couple minutes, kinda like it has to warm up, which leads me to back to the transmission. Also if I don't try to pull a hill for a couple minutes (which is the norm, as I live on top of a hill and am warmed up by the time I hit the bottom) the car behaves normally. Anyone experienced this? Am I looking at a transmission/torque converter weakness or possibly something simple in the fuel system? Any further investigation anyone would suggest? I think I'll try another transmission fluid swap - been only 10,000 miles since the last couple but for $18 it's worth a try...

Thanks for reading. Be safe out there...
Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is the fuel filter an in-tank one? I ask because I couldn't find reference to it in the Haynes manual.
And I haven't changed the EGR valve yet so that's something else to consider.
Thanks!
 

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fuel filter

on my 1999 honda accord lx 4 cyl mine is in gas tank my mechnic says they have never replace a fuel filter they work only on honda i am looking at a vacum leak on mine now but i have cel on mine
 

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Clean/replace air filter, clean IAVC valve, check and replace (if needed) spark plugs, clean out EGR port, change EGR valve if necessary (EGR valve doesn't always go out), replace fuel filter with OEM filter ONLY if it needs to be replaced.

It sounds like there is no fuel delivery getting to your engine.

Also, when you are turning your car on, will the CEL come on for a brief moment with all of the other indicator lights? It's also possible that the CEL is on, but the light itself is burnt out so you see it as no CEL when there may be one. Just some food for thought on that last part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Car has 10,000 miles on the...
Spark plugs
Air Filter
PCV valve

I have not addressed the IAC or EGR systems. Might need to look there. The CEL isn't burned out - I'm currently awaiting an emissions valve to correct a P1457 that shows up about once a week. You guys are confirming what I'm thinking - although I've never researched torque converter failure - this sounds like a fuel problem to me.
I'll keep you posted, and keep the ideas rolling in!
Thanks
 

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It's probably starting in 2nd or 3rd.

Put the shift lever in 1 and try when cold. does it move ok if you shift it manually?
 

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Sounds like what my 99 I4 did when the fuel pressure regulator was going. The cel code translated to a lean fuel condition. There was a tsb on it. Pretty cheap fix.
 

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Sounds like what my 99 I4 did when the fuel pressure regulator was going. The cel code translated to a lean fuel condition. There was a tsb on it. Pretty cheap fix.
dude, totally forgot about the FPR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
For the record - I pulled my throttle body and intake manifold today. Man, were they dirty! Probably never been cleaned in 165,000 miles - know they haven't in the 10,000 I've had the car. Cleaned it all up with throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush and put it back together. Took lots of pics with the phone as I was disassembling in case there were questions on reassembly.
Results - seems to have gotten rid of the low-rpm stumble, at least for now. The EGR port wasn't blocked off with crud, but there was a good bit around it so maybe it was enough to cause it to act up. Anyway, put it back together and it had a terrible idle - low, high, low, high... Referenced the before-mentioned photos and found I had swapped two of the vacuum lines on top of the intake manifold. Pulled the battery, 1 minute at idle, and it purred like it should!
So if you're getting a stumble - not on first start of the day, but on successive ones - between 1500 and 2000 RPM's at low load it might be that your throttle body, more specifically your EGR system, needs a good cleaning.
Worked for me. Took about 1.5 hours start to finish.
Hope this helps someone else!
Patrick
 

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Glad you got it all worked out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not so fast on my cure...

Here we go again - the cleaning made me think it was running better, and perhaps it is a bit, but the stumble is back. Perhaps it's a bad EGR valve, but no codes or anything. Next I will try the seafoam in the brake booster vacuum tube to see if it knocks loose something further down than I was able to get by cleaning the throttle body and intake manifold. I just hate buying a part and having to guess which one might be causing the problem when the car is not giving me any codes. Of course it's never quite quit on me - just stumbles, so maybe if it gets worse I'll get a code... Until then all it gets is seafoam and fuel.
Better luck to others...
 

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I seem to be having a similar problem.

I first noticed the problem of a barely noticeable rough idle upon start up about 5 months ago but it would normally go away after the car warmed up. No CEL. At first I thought it just needed some Seafoam through the system (put it off) however my car has recently become worse. The CEL has come on (random misfires all cylinders) and it idles terribly but generally does better after warming up. CEL stays on. It also causes my car to prematurely shift gears (1 & 2 ) and feels like a slip while cold. Uphill causes choking.

So to try and remedy the issue I did the following:

3 bottles of Seafoam, 1 per full gas of tank over three weeks as recommended by an Indie = Made no change. In fact it ran WORSE.

Items Done All at One Time

Replaced Air filter (was time anyway)

Cleaned throttle body per PDF on this forum.

Cleaned IAVC valve

Cleaned EGR port in Manifold/ Cleaned Manifold

Reset CEL

Seafoam through the brake booster for good measure

Result? When I first turned it on, the engine was quiet as a mouse, smooth and responsive! Then, the CEL came back on and the pattern returned. I planned on cleaning the EGR valve at least during the attempt but I f'n stripped the outside bolt looking at it. I have not had a chance to get Bolt Off from Sears.

Ironically some different gas brands causes the engine to do worse. I have tried different stations, different brands and a combination of the 2. I have determined that in my case Exxon gas performs the best. In fact a couple of times when I used Exxon gas from the same station, the light disappeared and the car ran as it should- but that has happened twice briefly in the past 5 months.

History

Bought the car at 99K
2000 EX V6
120K
90K maintenance done timing water etc
All fluids dropped
Unsure about plugs/wires however this does not seem related to me since I have seen the car run great on those 2 occasions.

Wanted to share my experience with the OP.

Any other suggestions deeply appreciated. I will look into the Fuel Pressure TB.
 
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