When should the transmission filter be changed an how? I guess it's located inside the transmission, right? I'm just curious because I will be changing my transmission fluid shortly as my mileage is almost 120K miles on my '05 accord v6.
Transmission filter replacement?
16720
1 - 20 of 81 Posts
When should the transmission filter be changed an how? I guess it's located inside the transmission, right? I'm just curious because I will be changing my transmission fluid shortly as my mileage is almost 120K miles on my '05 accord v6.
Joined
·
13,389 Posts
- Reaction score
- 1,731
Joined
·
204 Posts
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Los Angeles
Honda says it is a lifetime filter.
Like alot of things Honda says that is full of &^$
I would have changed it at 60k since it is such a small filter.
Because of the tranny issues many have changed it earlier.
I am using Magnefine and would highly recommend it.
Search, there are step by step instructions on this forum installing magnefine.
I would also use Redline D4.
The filter is outside the transmission but kind of hard to get to.
Go to a Honda parts site and look for the filter and you can see the diagram.
Honda says only Z1. Honda says lifetime filter. Honda says no blowing v6 auto trannies before 120k miles too.
Like alot of things Honda says that is full of &^$
I would have changed it at 60k since it is such a small filter.
Because of the tranny issues many have changed it earlier.
I am using Magnefine and would highly recommend it.
Search, there are step by step instructions on this forum installing magnefine.
I would also use Redline D4.
The filter is outside the transmission but kind of hard to get to.
Go to a Honda parts site and look for the filter and you can see the diagram.
Honda says only Z1. Honda says lifetime filter. Honda says no blowing v6 auto trannies before 120k miles too.
Joined
·
12 Posts
- Reaction score
- 0
The Magnefine thing is for the I4 and not the V6. The V6 has a filter that's a little tougher to get to.
The link that namegoeshere provides is excellent. I also find this post from 2007 to be helpful:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13804
I have a 2004 V6 at 99K miles, and my transmission has been shifting harder for at least the last 9K miles so I did the (first) ATF and filter swap this morning. After three drain/refills, it was better. After four drain/refills and the filter change, it's beautifully smooth again.
I tried buying my parts (see the right-hand side of namegoeshere's link) from a couple of local dealerships, but they wanted something like $66 for them (not including the fluids!). I ordered my parts online from hondapartsnow.com because they're actually local to me, and the parts showed up quickly. Even though they charged $11 for shipping, my total price was still half of what the dealerships wanted.
I went with the Redline D4 ATF and got 12 quarts shipped to me for $110 (look for a reseller on Amazon). This is cheaper than what my local dealers want for for Honda Z1 ATF.
I did four drains and flush and drove a few miles in between. On the last drain and flush, I installed the new filter. Cracking open the ATF housing requires removing the air cleaner box. I also took out the battery and tray, but I'm not sure you need to do that.
People talk about the 3rd bolt on the ATF filter housing, the one on the bottom being difficult to access. I found that removing the other two bolts and the banjo bolt gives you more room. After that, it was just a matter of working at it 1/6 a turn at a time with a spanner until it came out.
You're going to need a 17mm spanner to get that banjo bolt out. I also used 17mm, 10mm and 8mm sockets, socket extensions and a 10mm spanner for that pesky third bolt. The drain plug needs a 3/8-inch socket to remove it. I used my torque wrench because it's got a long handle. A lot of people complain about how tight that drain plug is; it was no problem for me with an 18-inch long wrench.
The "2 Banjo fitting compression washers" referred to on namegoeshere's link are simply the 12mm crush washers that you use for the oil drain plug. My 2004 EXL V6 (that I bought new) had only one crush washer on it, but the blown up picture from Honda shows 2 crush washers. I reassembled it according to the picture because I have plenty of those 12mm crush washers around.
Good luck!
The link that namegoeshere provides is excellent. I also find this post from 2007 to be helpful:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13804
I have a 2004 V6 at 99K miles, and my transmission has been shifting harder for at least the last 9K miles so I did the (first) ATF and filter swap this morning. After three drain/refills, it was better. After four drain/refills and the filter change, it's beautifully smooth again.
I tried buying my parts (see the right-hand side of namegoeshere's link) from a couple of local dealerships, but they wanted something like $66 for them (not including the fluids!). I ordered my parts online from hondapartsnow.com because they're actually local to me, and the parts showed up quickly. Even though they charged $11 for shipping, my total price was still half of what the dealerships wanted.
I went with the Redline D4 ATF and got 12 quarts shipped to me for $110 (look for a reseller on Amazon). This is cheaper than what my local dealers want for for Honda Z1 ATF.
I did four drains and flush and drove a few miles in between. On the last drain and flush, I installed the new filter. Cracking open the ATF housing requires removing the air cleaner box. I also took out the battery and tray, but I'm not sure you need to do that.
People talk about the 3rd bolt on the ATF filter housing, the one on the bottom being difficult to access. I found that removing the other two bolts and the banjo bolt gives you more room. After that, it was just a matter of working at it 1/6 a turn at a time with a spanner until it came out.
You're going to need a 17mm spanner to get that banjo bolt out. I also used 17mm, 10mm and 8mm sockets, socket extensions and a 10mm spanner for that pesky third bolt. The drain plug needs a 3/8-inch socket to remove it. I used my torque wrench because it's got a long handle. A lot of people complain about how tight that drain plug is; it was no problem for me with an 18-inch long wrench.
The "2 Banjo fitting compression washers" referred to on namegoeshere's link are simply the 12mm crush washers that you use for the oil drain plug. My 2004 EXL V6 (that I bought new) had only one crush washer on it, but the blown up picture from Honda shows 2 crush washers. I reassembled it according to the picture because I have plenty of those 12mm crush washers around.
Good luck!
Joined
·
11,191 Posts
- Reaction score
- 23
You can run a Magnefine on a 4cyl or a V6, but the OP has a 4 cylinder
Joined
·
12 Posts
- Reaction score
- 0
Also, I used the ATF refill hole and didn't go through the dipstick. I had to take out a couple of bolts to get the fuse box out of the way a little and then I was able to get a 17mm socket on that thing and also use a funnel during the refill.
If you want to replace the crush washer on the refill hole, the part number is 90441-PK4-000 24mm washer, sealing
If you want to replace the crush washer on the refill hole, the part number is 90441-PK4-000 24mm washer, sealing
Joined
·
12 Posts
- Reaction score
- 0
I haven't found any info about the Magnefine on a V6... maybe so.
Also, don't the last two characters on the OP's posting say "v6"??
Joined
·
7,694 Posts
- Reaction score
- 959
- Location
- Thibodaux Louisiana
His post says V6, but his avatar is a picture of an I4. I'm guessing the V6 in the post is correct, but who knows.
Joined
·
11,191 Posts
- Reaction score
- 23
His avatar says 4 cylinder, and I tend to trust pictures over what people say :dunno: Seen too many people think their car is something else when the pictures clearly show its not...so who knows.
I’m running a Magnefine filter on my V6. The conversion is really simple and can be done a few ways. As I run an external transmission cooler, I ordered another rear Banjo pipe fitting from Honda (very low cost).
This new short fitting replaces the long output fitting running from the filter housing to the rear of the transmission. You simply leave the old filter out of the housing and attach the new short banjo fitting to the filter housing end cap so that it faces forward towards the front of the vehicle. The Magnefine filter is placed in an easy to access position in the output line that now runs to the “new” transmission cooler. The output of the “new cooler” runs to the Banjo fitting at the back of the transmission.
Temps over 115deg and 13 hour drives – To anyone who thinks you don’t need a cooler, good for you, don’t think it helps in these conditions; good for you again, now go tell it to someone else and don’t waste space here preaching to me.
I believe it is bolted to the top of the transmission, torwards the rear, near the fluid return fitting.
Joined
·
12 Posts
- Reaction score
- 0
This is a fun thread to read for the I4 ATF filter:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14699
It gives you an idea of what you're looking for, and it talks about aftermarket filters. I looked at the drawings, and it looks like the I4 filter should be right there on the top (driver's side). If the stuff inside an I4 is set up like a V6, then it would be under the fuse box.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=14699
It gives you an idea of what you're looking for, and it talks about aftermarket filters. I looked at the drawings, and it looks like the I4 filter should be right there on the top (driver's side). If the stuff inside an I4 is set up like a V6, then it would be under the fuse box.
Trans cooler hose routing
MikeCz,
Thanks for posting this info on your cooler setup – using an extra rear banjo fitting is a great idea.
I would like some details on hose routing please. I think that the new banjo fitting facing frontwards lines up perfectly with the trans mount – do you go over or under this? Is your battery in the stock location and do you have the stock air box setup? Any difficulty with hose routing under the air box or under the battery? Also, between the battery and the radiator is an air duct – did you have trouble getting past this? Lastly, have you disconnected the heater?
I think your RHD setup is the same as my LHD
Thanks
andrew
MikeCz,
Thanks for posting this info on your cooler setup – using an extra rear banjo fitting is a great idea.
I would like some details on hose routing please. I think that the new banjo fitting facing frontwards lines up perfectly with the trans mount – do you go over or under this? Is your battery in the stock location and do you have the stock air box setup? Any difficulty with hose routing under the air box or under the battery? Also, between the battery and the radiator is an air duct – did you have trouble getting past this? Lastly, have you disconnected the heater?
I think your RHD setup is the same as my LHD
Thanks
andrew
Joined
·
422 Posts
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- South Texas
Just curious.
I've read a couple of threads about replacing the ATF filter.
Is there such a filter on a manual and should it too be replaced around the 60K area?
Any links for DIY?
And which filter should I get for a manual (if needed). Same as an automatic?
I've read a couple of threads about replacing the ATF filter.
Is there such a filter on a manual and should it too be replaced around the 60K area?
Any links for DIY?
And which filter should I get for a manual (if needed). Same as an automatic?
You best bet is to take out the battery and battery platform and have a good look around. I have everything stock and there is a ton of room under the battery platform for running hoses and mounting filters. Actually running the hose was a 10 second job. I had no problems with engine/trans mounts getting in the way of the short banjo fitting. There are recesses that allow plenty of room to run the hoses around the radiator and air-con core to a trans cooler if you so desire.
Do not disconnect the existing transmission warmer and Before I get posts from someone reading this – Do your research. Hint: Research does not mean doing a quick Google search and quoting the same old regurgitated text covering early model slush box transmissions. This is a complex subject and nothing is as simple as it seems, especially with these and other modern transmissions. Make sure you look up and read the failure modes identified by Hondas own investigation into this transmission.
Back on subject - This is a really easy mod as both inlet and outlet hoses can be run side by side from the transmission to the front of the car. If I get a chance over the next week or two I will take a few pictures and post them.
Hi, I don't think you have to worry about a filter on a manual. I’m sure some will correct me if I’m wrong here but I really cannot see the need.
4 cyl Autos have an external filter on top of the trans.
Oh, yes the Accord LX I4 was my previous car and it is a great engine that is why I have it in the pic but I own a EX V6 as of now.
I saw the filter is inside the transmission itself and it is suppose to be a lifetime filter so I'm not going to mess with it and just do a drain and fill like normal.
Joined
·
10,072 Posts
- Reaction score
- 355
- Location
- Canada
I have never seen or heard of any reference to a filter for the manual transmissions, there is a magnet inside the housing but that would only pick up ferrous metals, I guess the rest (bronze particles likely) will just get ground up.......
I did put a small high power magnet on the end of the drain plug when I changed to the GM FMSM fluid a couple of years ago, eventually I'll get to see how much stuff is on it when I change the fluid in another year or two.
1 - 20 of 81 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
