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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just replaced my old transmission with a used 07 Accord baya transmission and supposedly 68k. Are these transmissions supposed to whine starting in 1st and 2nd gear? It goes away as I accelerate. I had to use my old torque converter because the 07 converter was slightly larger than the flex plate.

And I don't quite remember if my old one did the same. If it did it wasn't as loud as this one.
 

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04, v6 accord, ¿lx?, BAYA, J30A4
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I had to use my old torque converter because the 07 converter was slightly larger than the flex plate.
What year/mileage/cylinder count are you driving?
If BAYA is the original trans that should be a v6 03-05 and possibly beyond. not 100% but I believe I’ve read on hear that to do the 06+ transmission swap to an 05 or earlier you would need the flex plate as well for a proper bolt up.

im curious about the whine, can you take a video (audio) sample of it?

does it whine in tune to engine speed or wheel speed when reved or accelerated?

if you are coasting does it match wheel speed or engine speed?

I know those two questions sound similar but they are vastly different
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What year/mileage/cylinder count are you driving?
If BAYA is the original trans that should be a v6 03-05 and possibly beyond. not 100% but I believe I’ve read on hear that to do the 06+ transmission swap to an 05 or earlier you would need the flex plate as well for a proper bolt up.

im curious about the whine, can you take a video (audio) sample of it?

does it whine in tune to engine speed or wheel speed when reved or accelerated?

if you are coasting does it match wheel speed or engine speed?

I know those two questions sound similar but they are vastly different
2004 V6 3.0l around 144K. I will try to take a video sample but the whine starts when coming from a stop and then quickly fades away shifting into 2nd. I was reading an Acura forum and the whining noise was normal for most of the TL owners, which is just an upgraded Accord in my opinion..

Im trying to remember if had the same problem with my other. If it was there it wasn't noticeable..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update:
I replaced the torque converter due to mileage and not because of the whining. Even after doing so, the whining is still there. Which is fine. At least I know the TC is good and was good 😊. Although after changing it there is a slight shudder at idle. No DTC are set and drives really smooth when in gear. I guess the slight shudder will go away after a while.
 

· Elvira
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Update:
I replaced the torque converter due to mileage and not because of the whining. Even after doing so, the whining is still there. Which is fine. At least I know the TC is good and was good 😊. Although after changing it there is a slight shudder at idle. No DTC are set and drives really smooth when in gear. I guess the slight shudder will go away after a while.
I always understood there to be a "break-in" period for Torque converters. There are some posts elsewhere not related to Honda's that have TCC breakin procedures that are programmed in the ECU.

Jeeps had that shudder on some of their models that required a TSB that purposely required the fix to include a check for the TCC break-in option to be disabled in their programming. Leads me to believe it is purposely programmed from the factory.

My understanding is that you want to get the lockup to cycle on and off a many times within 100 or so miles of slow meticulous driving and not gunning it off the showroom floor. So basically drive til it locks then slow up a little to unlock, rinse, and repeat. There is friction material in there that needs to be bedded like brake pads/shoes.

Of all the cars I've owned, the first few 100 miles were always driven with kid-gloves. THEN......Katie, bar the door.

They all initially had a little shudder that eventually disappeared after those 100 or so miles.

This Honda was the worst one though where it seemed to take an inordinate time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I always understood there to be a "break-in" period for Torque converters. There are some posts elsewhere not related to Honda's that have TCC breakin procedures that are programmed in the ECU.

Jeeps had that shudder on some of their models that required a TSB that purposely required the fix to include a check for the TCC break-in option to be disabled in their programming. Leads me to believe it is purposely programmed from the factory.

My understanding is that you want to get the lockup to cycle on and off a many times within 100 or so miles of slow meticulous driving and not gunning it off the showroom floor. So basically drive til it locks then slow up a little to unlock, rinse, and repeat. There is friction material in there that needs to be bedded like brake pads/shoes.

Of all the cars I've owned, the first few 100 miles were always driven with kid-gloves. THEN......Katie, bar the door.

They all initially had a little shudder that eventually disappeared after those 100 or so miles.

This Honda was the worst one though where it seemed to take an inordinate time.
Okay good to know because I surely didn't know. Still learning!

I did check for DTC and found none.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did check for DTC and found none.
Just a quick update...I did a VIN search on the transmission that ordered. I was sold that it had 68k. Turns out that it actually had about 160k. It came from an 07 Accord SE that had just wrecked back in 6/2021. I know its not what as advertised but so far it's holding up fairly well.
 

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Just a quick update...I did a VIN search on the transmission that ordered. I was sold that it had 68k. Turns out that it actually had about 160k. It came from an 07 Accord SE that had just wrecked back in 6/2021. I know its not what as advertised but so far it's holding up fairly well.
As long as the fluid had been changed a couple times within that 160K you should be OK, of course that is an unknown.
 

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2017 Honda Accord, Coupe, Touring (V6, 6AT), 2017 Honda Accord Sedan, EXL V6 w/ Navi, Sensing
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My ‘07 V6 5AT has no such whine from first to second. I’d be looking for some money back on that tranny having 90k miles more than you paid for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My ‘07 V6 5AT has no such whine from first to second. I’d be looking for some money back on that tranny having 90k miles more than you paid for.
Yes I do agree but because of the contract I signed they aren't responsible for the incorrect mileage.

Yes I do agree but because of the contract I signed they aren't responsible for the incorrect mileage.
And this is my only vehicle...

As long as the fluid had been changed a couple times within that 160K you should be OK, of course that is an unknown.
I didnt see a lot of clutch material on the drain plug when I first took it out. However, giving the fact that this trans has been going for quite a while, this isn't a bad unit. It didn't have the oil cooler kit on it before I got to it. After a few hours of driving I do check the trans cooler and it's warm close to hot. It's staying pretty cool.

As long as the fluid had been changed a couple times within that 160K you should be OK, of course that is an unknown.
I didnt see a lot of clutch material on the drain plug when I first took it out. However, giving the fact that this trans has been going for quite a while, this isn't a bad unit. It didn't have the oil cooler kit on it before I got to it. After a few hours of driving I do check the trans cooler and it's warm close to hot. It's staying pretty cool.
It's had quite a few flushes since I've had it along with a reman TC.
 

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Yes I do agree but because of the contract I signed they aren't responsible for the incorrect mileage.
Obviously the contact benefits the seller and relives them from inaccuracies in stated mileage. It’s a wonder every tranny they sell isn’t reported to have 10k miles on it.
 

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its real important to use oem honda dw1 fluid for longevity. honda z1 and dw1 atfs use a high level of zinc whereas all other atf manufacturers use a phospherous additive. the zinc prolongs the life of the tranny. i wouldnt even really trust synthetic dw1 fluids for the honda 5 speed trans.
 

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2013 Accord Sport Sedan V6 Navi. 2007 Accord 4Dr V6
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My experience with a 2005 Accord V6 was similar in terms of whining through first and second. Almost sounded like I had a turbo! It was related to some 2004-2006 models. May have extended to 2007 but I didn't have the issue in my 07. t It is quite a difficult noise to locate but one indicator is that it seems to be structure borne either through the drive shafts or more typically the shift linkage. So much so, that I replaced a perfectly good shift linkage with no improvement! I also replaced wheel bearings, intake and vacuum pipes, removed cleaned and replaced heatshields, 3x 3 auto trans fluid change, removed all accessible trans solenoids and cleaned and replaced some, all to no effect. I continued to drive it thinking eventually something will fall apart and I will find it. Since it whined on acceleration and changed noise with gear changes I thought it was either the engine or the tranny and I naturally assumed the tranny. Anyway, the gearbox started to play up with flakey changes and I had it reconditioned at considerable cost. Parts included all the clutch plates as you would expect (some of the ones removed were showing metal in places so that's where the issue was), various bearings and the torque converter. On picking the car up from workshop I found the gearbox was like new with smooth and consistant changes. So much so that I didn't realise until then just how many crappy changes I had endured and accepted as 'normal' !!! But the shock was that the 1st-2nd whine was still there!! Unchanged!! I later found out this related to a manufacturing issue specifcally excessive backlash on the helical gears in the transmission. I dont think it was universal issue and it was related to some Accord gearboxes manufactured in some countries. Not all Accord gearboxes exhibited the issue. The assessment was that, annoying as that sound may have been to some, it was'nt doing any harm to the gearbox itself. So I just put up with it. The noise was noted by me a few months after buying the vehicle at 111,000 kilometres. The gearbox failed and was repaired at 220000Km. The car is still in the family and the gearbox is still in perfectly good working order at 340000Km, but still with that whine. My daughter has the car now and she ribs me about it all the time as the thing Dad couldn't fix!!


Hope that helps.

Cheers
Terry
 

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Just a quick update...I did a VIN search on the transmission that ordered. I was sold that it had 68k. Turns out that it actually had about 160k. It came from an 07 Accord SE that had just wrecked back in 6/2021. I know its not what as advertised but so far it's holding up fairly well.
was the bar code label still on it or did you get the numbers somewhere else on the transmission?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
its real important to use oem honda dw1 fluid for longevity. honda z1 and dw1 atfs use a high level of zinc whereas all other atf manufacturers use a phospherous additive. the zinc prolongs the life of the tranny. i wouldnt even really trust synthetic dw1 fluids for the honda 5 speed trans.
I work at the dealership so that's all I use is the DW1
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My experience with a 2005 Accord V6 was similar in terms of whining through first and second. Almost sounded like I had a turbo! It was related to some 2004-2006 models. May have extended to 2007 but I didn't have the issue in my 07. t It is quite a difficult noise to locate but one indicator is that it seems to be structure borne either through the drive shafts or more typically the shift linkage. So much so, that I replaced a perfectly good shift linkage with no improvement! I also replaced wheel bearings, intake and vacuum pipes, removed cleaned and replaced heatshields, 3x 3 auto trans fluid change, removed all accessible trans solenoids and cleaned and replaced some, all to no effect. I continued to drive it thinking eventually something will fall apart and I will find it. Since it whined on acceleration and changed noise with gear changes I thought it was either the engine or the tranny and I naturally assumed the tranny. Anyway, the gearbox started to play up with flakey changes and I had it reconditioned at considerable cost. Parts included all the clutch plates as you would expect (some of the ones removed were showing metal in places so that's where the issue was), various bearings and the torque converter. On picking the car up from workshop I found the gearbox was like new with smooth and consistant changes. So much so that I didn't realise until then just how many crappy changes I had endured and accepted as 'normal' !!! But the shock was that the 1st-2nd whine was still there!! Unchanged!! I later found out this related to a manufacturing issue specifcally excessive backlash on the helical gears in the transmission. I dont think it was universal issue and it was related to some Accord gearboxes manufactured in some countries. Not all Accord gearboxes exhibited the issue. The assessment was that, annoying as that sound may have been to some, it was'nt doing any harm to the gearbox itself. So I just put up with it. The noise was noted by me a few months after buying the vehicle at 111,000 kilometres. The gearbox failed and was repaired at 220000Km. The car is still in the family and the gearbox is still in perfectly good working order at 340000Km, but still with that whine. My daughter has the car now and she ribs me about it all the time as the thing Dad couldn't fix!!


Hope that helps.

Cheers
Terry
Hahah! Yes! I've gotten used to the noise! Doesn't even bother me anymore. Almost 20k put on it and still going. Reman TC and majority of the solenoids replaced. Adjusted the linear solenoid A and B an eighth of a turn! Trans and car doing well for a build and daily!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ive read about this… curious as to what the drive/shift experience was before and after the adjustment, especially pertaining to grade logic shifting. I’m hesitant on doing this but am curious as to your opinion.
Shutting a lot more firm and smooth. Reverse is smooth as well except when cold. It's best to let the car warm up before putting it in reverse. It's really harsh. But I have a cooler for the trans so it takes longer for the fluid to flow.
 
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