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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to install an amplifier into the trunk of my '05 HAH and it seems like making battery connections at the IMA inverter seems a far simpler installation than running power cables all of the way from the engine compartment to the trunk.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Specifically, where might I pick up the ignition remote signal in this installation and where would be the safest places to source power from the under seat battery? Or, is this just a terrible plan and I should just bite the bullet and make the run from the engine compartment?

PS - I am installing the amp only to add a subwoofer and to amp the rear speakers so I hope top avoid having issues with the ANC.
 

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not a hybrid expert, but im pretty sure the drivetrain battery isnt 12 volts so this wont work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
not a hybrid expert, but im pretty sure the drivetrain battery isnt 12 volts so this wont work.
As I understand it the IMA battery is a 144V behemoth that gets piped into an inverter that outputs 12V for the interior systems and to charge the emergency starting battery. Obviously, I would want to attach to the inverter side. If this were not the case it should be an interesting explanation for how the jump battery is charged, the 12V power outlets are powered and how the interior lights which are a perfect match for the non-hybrid variants keep from exploding.
 

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Be safe not sorry just run it from the engine compartment. It isn't difficult at all. Mine is run that way and it is clean with a few zip ties and proper box size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Be safe not sorry just run it from the engine compartment. It isn't difficult at all. Mine is run that way and it is clean with a few zip ties and proper box size.
Where did you pick up ignition sensing?
 

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I'm trying to remember. It was a bit more difficult than the dodge. Power was from battery with online fuse. Source was tied to rear speakers. Also had to use a crossover in the trunk. I would honestly have to look tomorrow. I just know it was a little bit of a pain because it wasn't a simple single din sub preout.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Avoiding the battery behind the seat the closest obvious remote appears to be the accessory outlet inside the center console which is easy to access and may not be a huge pain to run under the passenger seat. I'm curious if there are any preexisting trunk passthrough holes. It looks like I am going to have to make my own with a drill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
An update.

I ran a 4ga wire from the battery all the way to the back and split into 8ga wiring using a fused distribution block. I sanded a shared ground under the backseat and used 4ga to 8ga distribution block keeping the 4ga run about 14" long.

I used harnesses off the rear speakers wire into a 4 channel LOC wherein I am only using 2 channels. The LOC has a line-level sensor that provides a remote turn on for the amplifiers. From the LOC I go into a very old Jensen LXA300 2-channel amp I've had collecting dust for years. This amp has RCA pass-through which continues to another old Audiovox 120W RMS 4-channel amp. The Jensen powers the sub in bridged mode. The Audiovox powers the rear speakers using channels 1 and 2.

Having read up on the ANC issues in this car I thought I was safe to leave the front speakers alone. This was quite wrong. I immediately got ANC noise which totally blows because the entire install was designed to avoid messing with the front speakers or cutting any factory wiring. I cut and grounded the green/red wire on the ANC harness above the fuse box per many instructions easily found on the interwebs. That corrected the ANC noises pronto.

Now, the installed system sounds absolutely amazing but staging is definitely off with all the quality sound distinctly coming from the rear. At some point I will have to at least amp the front door speakers and I may go so far as to upgrade them and deaden the doors while I'm in there. The terrible part of this is I could have already done this as I am using half a 4-channel amplifier already but it is neatly installed in the trunk instead of up front where it could much more easily interface with the head unit wiring.

I'm looking at getting some OEM compatible reverse and forward head unit harnesses so I can splice the LOC in at the HU without chopping up any wiring. I may just leave the rear install as is and put in a line-level capable 2-channel amp to amp the front speakers. I hate to pull apart what I got in just to relocate the 4-channel amp. It would mean all that 4ga goodness was a total waste.

I am wondering if I might be able to just rob the power wiring for the 12V outlet next to the thing that is explicitly "not an ashtray". The spring-loaded cover for that thing is ridiculous and I never use it because it won't open far enough to actually be useful. I use the outlet inside the console if I need a 12V plug. If that front outlet is isolated to its own fuse then I'd feel comfortable robbing its' wiring. If it is shared with the other outlet and maybe some other accessories I'd feel it necessary to run a whole other circuit from the battery for a front amp.
 
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