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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Folks
I would like to install additional lights in the trunk.
I know stock light switches ON due to the switch in the latch.

I am looking for ideas on how to switch ON my additional lights when trunk is open. I will be drawing a wire from the battery to the trunk.
I don't want to use motion sensor switch due to false triggers from moving cargo.

I don't want to splice stock wiring.

Folks, any ideas?

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Car so nice, bought twice
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Tee off the existing trunk wiring with an LED strip as suggested ^^ and put a switch in series if you want. Shouldn't need to mess with new wiring or fuses. Oznium has tons of LED strip stuff that takes care of the resistors for you.

I know you say you don't want to splice into stock wiring, but it'd be silly not to. As long as you keep everything neat and heatshrinked, no one will ever notice you've messed with it. If you insist on making it difficult, you'd have to find the under dash fuse for the light and tee off there. Or just use one of the empty fuse slots to have constant 12V and manually switch the new trunk lighting on/off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks folks for your replies.

I don't see trunk fuse in the diagram.
Any direction here would significantly help here.

Another option I see is to install a pressure switch.

But, I prefer tapping from the trunk fuse if there is one.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I think without a service manual (don't think one exists yet for the 9G), you're boned on finding the under-dash fuse for the trunk bulb. I would do what Honda did for the trunk light...add a new fuse to the box, run the line to the trunk, and then tie the ground side of the bulb to the latch switch wire. When the door is open, the switch connects to ground and the circuit is complete, turning on your new lights.

EDIT: Come to think of it, with the way Honda set up the fuse on the 8G, even if you knew which one it was it wouldn't matter because the trunk bulb is ground-switched as opposed to +12V switched. So all you'd get from tapping into the fuse is a constant 12V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Please tell me more as i couldn't follow.
Do you mean, i tap on trunk fuse from under dash/hood?
 

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Please tell me more as i couldn't follow.
Do you mean, i tap on trunk fuse from under dash/hood?
I think what the other people are getting at is that it isn't a complicated matter. No need to tap fuses, etc.

You can use a base adapter from VLED:
http://www.vleds.com/strip-lights-led/accessories/base-adapters/diy-2-led-base-adapter-194-t10.html

If you need more light then use this "Y" split:
http://www.vleds.com/strip-lights-l...-2-led-multi-board-y-adapter-daisy-chain.html

Then get the length of LED strip of your liking, i.e.:
http://www.vleds.com/white-5k-interior-led-strip-lights.html

I haven't done this myself yet, but I am getting ready to do so. Plus the 15% off sale they are currently having is nice.

Edit: You just need to get those connectors, remove the original bulb and it should be plug-and-play. No need to splicing, tapping, etc. etc.
 

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Please tell me more as i couldn't follow.
Do you mean, i tap on trunk fuse from under dash/hood?
To elaborate, you're going to have to mess with the stock wiring in the trunk if you want to be able to use the trunk switch to control your new lights. No way around it. To get 12V power to the new lights, you can either hook them up in parallel to the trunk bulb or run a new line to the fuse box (what I've drawn below): (black = what you have, red = what you'd add)

Untitled.png

If you want to be able to turn off the trunk lights manually, you would add a switch somewhere in the red circuit's path.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks drowned12 and Randy8.

Randy8.
This looks like a good option.

If base adapter comes in the place of the trunk bulb then it may turn into an issue because i see a resistor inline in trunk light socket. So, i hope it can let enough current to power 2 LED strips.

What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here are pics for connector and light socket. Light socket housing has a resistor in parallel.

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Thanks drowned12 and Randy8.

Randy8.
This looks like a good option.

If base adapter comes in the place of the trunk bulb then it may turn into an issue because i see a resistor inline in trunk light socket. So, i hope it can let enough current to power 2 LED strips.

What do you think?
Thanks for those pictures. I didn't know about the inline resistor. So as of right now, I have a 13 LED wedge that replaced my trunk bulb (http://www.collegehillshonda.com/product/WHP13.html). It is plenty bright but it does not illuminate the rear of the trunk space much, especially when you have stuff in the trunk. This is the reason why I want to use the strips.

So to answer your question about having enough power for the LEDs, I don't know. I do know that if it does not deliever enough power to the LEDs, they just dim but will still light. So its worth a shot, especially because it would be fairly cheap to do so.

I'm sure you can get away with at least a 20 LED SMD chips strip with no dimming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Vleds support said u can skip base adapter and directly connect to stock connector.
U am waiting for shipment to arrive 6-Jan. Will keep you posted.

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, the Y connector can connect to stock connector directly and can be then connected to the strip.
So, stock bulb housing and its resistor can be permanently removed.
And base adapter is not needed.

Pic shows Y connector connected to stock connector.
Y connector -> led strip.

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Here are pics for connector and light socket. Light socket housing has a resistor in parallel.

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this is not a resistor, this is a diode. resistor are not directional, diodes are. Therefore the gray band on it.

They also serve a complete different purpose in an electronic circuit :)

 

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