So yesterday i received a text message from my local dealership stating that Honda has issued a recall on the 2015-2017 Accords for an issue related to the fuel pump. It stated that the pump isn't supplying enough fuel and can cause the engine to stall. I have searched all around on the web to find more info on this recall and I haven't been able to find anything. I have even entered my VIN on both Honda and the NHTSA websites to see if there is a current recall and they both say that there are no recalls on my car. Just curious if anyone else has received a notice.
TSB# 19-016 safety recall notice on 15-17 V6 Accord fuel pumps
ImagioX1
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I asked this question a long while back and got this set of instructions from member crmplex:
The seat bottom is easy. There are two tabs on the front of the seat bottom that hold the front of the cushion down. One on either side. A quick upward pull near these tabs will free the front of the seat. It makes a good "Pop." Do one at a time. And the rear of the seat bottom is secured to the body with one bolt. It's on the drivers side of the seat next to the buckle. Both the socket size is 10mm. Use 1/4" drive, and a 6" extension. U will be able to visibly see the bolt if u stuff ur hands between the seat bottom and seat back and spread them to look around.
I followed these instructions and it worked out just fine. The bolt on my seat was closer to the center, maybe there's a difference between the coupe and sedan seat? Regardless, it is easy enough to find.
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Duh. But the electrical parts where the sodium is gathering are presumably dry inside the motor casing. Indeed, the reason explained for the higher voltage operation is _the spark will prevent sodium gathering_.
Something does not add up ...
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Yes, the fuel pump motor is immersed in fuel (like any in-tank fuel pump). In fact, the fuel is used as a coolant for the fuel pump motor operation (and for this reason you do NOT want to run low or empty on fuel as this can overheat and damage the fuel pump motor). If you read the description of the problem sodium from cheap fuel deposits on the motor communicator during low speed use causing problems with the performance of the fuel pump motor which is what can lead to stalling.
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No (EXPLOSIVE, PAINFUL, AND UNCONTROLLABLE BOWEL MOVEMENTS WHICH WILL LEAD TO DEHYDRATION, HOSPITALIZATION, ORGAN FAILURE, REPEATED RESUSCITATION, EVENTUAL DEATH, LAWSUITS, ACCUSATIONS, ALLEGATIONS, ACCEPTANCE, LEGAL SETTLEMENTS, AND A YOUTUBE TRIBUTE VIDEO WITH 6 VIEWS). But that should not translate to the motor brushes being in fuel. The motor should be a sealed unit.
And it's "commutator".
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About the only thing you got right was about the proper term and spelling for commutator. Of course fuel pump motors are immersed in fuel. Do even a modest amount of research and you'll learn something. Additionally, liquid gasoline cannot burn or explode. Gasoline must be vaporized and be mixed with oxygen to ignite. There is no oxygen in the gasoline itself when in liquid form so liquid gasoline itself will not burn. If it were possible for an electric motor to ignite liquid gasoline, why would ANYONE immerse one, encapsulated or not, in liquid gasoline? It wouldn't only be dangerous, it would be horribly negligent.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Fuel_pump
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This is exactly what Im feeling too, so far i been through 2 tanks and about 600 miles hopefully around the 1 thousand mark it improves. I used to barely tap the gas and it would accelerate nicely now I have to push the pedal further. Hopefully its just a relearning phase
Ok everyone here is what I do AND the dealer does if you want to reset everything. I did it. The reflash of the ECU that they did for the recall does not do a hard reset of everything like I thought. This is what they do at the dealer. AND doing this you will NOT loose any of the radio or any other saved settings in the car. Disconnect BOTH the negative and positive cables from the battery. Connect a piece of wire between both of the disconnected cables. Tap on the break 3 times to drain any stored power in any of the capacitors in the car. Wait 10 min. Remove the wire. Connect both the cables back to the battery and you are done. The only things that will be changed are the radio treble and bass settings back to factory and the radio getting louder or quieter as you go faster setting will be back to factory. You will not loose any saved preset stations. Nothing else will change and your car will be back to peppy. They do this at the dealer all the time. They even have some wire with alligator clips on either end but any wire connected to the cables while disconnected will work. I did this yesterday. They did not do this after the update flash because my radio treble and bass were not changed after the flash.
If you have any doubt google it and you will see this is how Honda says to re-set the cars ECU and PCM. Its just a 10mm socket or wrench to get the terminals off.
Here is another post explaining the same thing.
https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/86-9th-generation/252489-correct-way-resetting-ecu.html
If you have any doubt google it and you will see this is how Honda says to re-set the cars ECU and PCM. Its just a 10mm socket or wrench to get the terminals off.
Here is another post explaining the same thing.
https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/86-9th-generation/252489-correct-way-resetting-ecu.html
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I don't need the lecture on combustion.
Man - we need clarity here.
An electric "motor" can be sealed, and then indeed immersed. In that case, no gasoline "sodium" could get to the commutator.
So, is the motor open to let gasoline get at its internal moving parts where the brushes meet the commutator? How does the sodium get inside the motor? in other words.
Be clear.
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WhiteOrchid, thanks for the explanation of how to remove the rear seat bottom!!
Quote: whiteorchid: The seat bottom is easy. There are two tabs on the front of the seat bottom that hold the front of the cushion down. One on either side. A quick upward pull near these tabs will free the front of the seat. It makes a good "Pop." Do one at a time. And the rear of the seat bottom is secured to the body with one bolt. It's on the drivers side of the seat next to the buckle. Both the socket size is 10mm. Use 1/4" drive, and a 6" extension. U will be able to visibly see the bolt if u stuff ur hands between the seat bottom and seat back and spread them to look around.
I followed these instructions and it worked out just fine. The bolt on my seat was closer to the center, maybe there's a difference between the coupe and sedan seat? Regardless, it is easy enough to find.
Quote: whiteorchid: The seat bottom is easy. There are two tabs on the front of the seat bottom that hold the front of the cushion down. One on either side. A quick upward pull near these tabs will free the front of the seat. It makes a good "Pop." Do one at a time. And the rear of the seat bottom is secured to the body with one bolt. It's on the drivers side of the seat next to the buckle. Both the socket size is 10mm. Use 1/4" drive, and a 6" extension. U will be able to visibly see the bolt if u stuff ur hands between the seat bottom and seat back and spread them to look around.
I followed these instructions and it worked out just fine. The bolt on my seat was closer to the center, maybe there's a difference between the coupe and sedan seat? Regardless, it is easy enough to find.
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Can you read? You have ready access to the same information I have, in fact most of it is right here in this thread.
Read page 7: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCLRPT-19V060-8514.PDF
CLEAR ENOUGH?
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After having the recall completed I've only noticed 2 things. One: the fuel pump is loud as hell. Two: my voltage stays at 14.2 volts permanently, to compensate for the pump being kept at full blast.
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Of course not: nowhere in there does it show the module or describe whether the pump motor is sealed or not or if the brushes are wet.
I am very curious about this, but haven't seen so far how it's actually built.
The only indications in that report are below. They don't indicate directly that gasoline is inside the actual pump motor.
Sodium particulates contained in low quality fuels can adhere to certain
internal components in the fuel pump, increasing electrical and mechanical
resistance and reducing fuel pump performance.
Sodium deposits were found on the brush and commutator components in the failed fuel pumps.
The spark in higher voltage operation in the 11.2 V-13 V range was
also confirmed to dissolve sodium accumulation, allowing for full fuel pump rotation speed and flow rate.
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Oy? The main 12V system?
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So far from what I've seen. The car used to drop down to ~12.5 volts while running with all accessories off. Now it seems to stay at 14.2. (At least at idle)
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^ Strange. Not sure that's very good for the battery (?).
Also the higher load on the engine via the alternator means mileage is dinged (maybe). Honda should change that pump motor.
Also the higher load on the engine via the alternator means mileage is dinged (maybe). Honda should change that pump motor.
So if they're inspecting for leaks/cracks in the pump housing, that's how sodium or other ions might be coming in contact with the pump's internal components.
Besides, even if there are no leaks/cracks in the pump housing, sodium or other ions might precipitate/accumulate in the fuel path when the pump is running at the "10V speed" and by keeping it at the higher speed they hope to flush the lines and prevent a build-up that might block flow and cause the engine to stall.
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The stated goal of the higher voltage is that the spark eliminates the sodium, so ...
Anyone have an actual photo of the pump motor?
Anyone have an actual photo of the pump motor?
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I believe what @AlanTheBeastV2 is curious about is; how is fuel getting into the sealed pump to begin with, and further, how is a software update going to fix that problem. I guess I look at it like he does. How did water get inside my pool pump motor and how is changing the RPM of the motor going to fix that?
What part of "visual inspection of the fuel pump case to verify there are no cracks in the housing" don't you understand? Leaks/cracks in the housing could allow fuel to get into the electrical side of the pump and cause problems. Remember, this thing is inside the fuel tank...
Here's a pic of a Honda Accord OEM pump for a '16 3.5L engine (49 State emissions).
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That photo doesn't answer my question alas. Nice try though.
I'm done with this. Nobody has answered the question I asked: Is this motor designed to be "wet" down to the brushes?
I'm done with this. Nobody has answered the question I asked: Is this motor designed to be "wet" down to the brushes?
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