I personally wouldn’t do that to a car with a CVT. Although Honda makes a reliable CVT, these transmissions aren’t meant to take a lot of hp and torque. And trust me, I’m not hating on the 1.5 because I own one myself. If you want to do something like that the 2.0 is a better choice. I personally wouldn’t tune any car whether it’s a 2.0 or a V8 or anything else because I know that that kind of stuff along with spirited driving reduces the life of your car.
The CVT is for everyday driving, not racing. That’s why I chose to get a CVT, because I’m in my mid 30’s and my racing days are over. I just want to get from point A to point B.
Check this video out. You might want to learn from this guys mistake...
CVT transmission on my modded Honda Accord 2018-2020 goes out at 40K miles.
Car is custom tuned and running full bolt-ons. List below:
Last Dyno Results: ~220WHP/WTQ PERFORMANCE:
- PRL Race Downpipe
- PRL Frontpipe
- PRL Intercooler
- AEM Intake
- Thermal R&D Frontpipe Exhaust
- Rolloface Big Brake Kit
- E-Tuned by Innovative Motor Works
- Mishimoto Oil Catch Can
- Hasport Engine Mounts
This transmission is not meant to be driven hard and with loads of power. Many have taken the car to above 250HP/TQ without issues. However, it could just be a matter of time.
Maintenance on my car was always done on or before time. CVT service was done at 35K miles. Oil changes done always at 50% levels.
Car wasn't raced constantly either. Prior to this incident, the night before I raced, but didn't do anything over rated. Normal shifts in Sport mode. Got home without issues. Next day, while heading to work, I started having transmission slippage. Thought it was something else, so I reset the car. Went to a gas station and after driving out, my car got stuck on gear in the middle of the road. I had to power off and on the car, then over rev it into Drive. Car got into gear and was able to make it home safely.