[oOKhanhOo]

*Do this at your own risk. I am NOT responsible for any damage/s. This is a guide.*

I want to thank Kreg357 from the12volt.com for all the information given.
Also, Damien22 from DA for the defroster wire location.

Well let get started. You will NOT lose any of your factory fobs. The downside of having PTS w/ RS is that the car shuts off when you open the door. Hopefully iDatalink will have a newer firmware in the future that will keep the car stay on.

You will need:

1) Viper 4704v (This is a 2-way system) Remote Start(RS) only, no additional security. Buy the 5704v for security and RS.
2) Solder
3) Wire stripper
4) Electrical Tape
5) Scissors
6) iDatalink ADSALCA 64K

I was going to post pictures but from all the information given to me, there's really no need for pictures through out the whole installation. I will post pictures that will be useful.

The information below will let you know where to solder the wires to.
H1/1 RED (+12v) @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug
H1/2 BLACK (-) Ground
H1/3 BROWN (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT Optional **
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a light flash relay Not used
H1/5 WHITE PIN 30 of LIGHT FLASH RELAY Set Jumper/Fuse to (-) and connect as per iDatalink install guide
H1/6 ORANGE 500 mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT Not used

** More info on the vehicles Horn wire :
Horn Trigger Lt. Blue to Orange (-) @ horn switch or dash fuse box, Green 36 pin Plug (E), Pin 34
A direct hard-wire connection is used.

More info on Parking Light connection ( the iDatalink guide is very brief on this wire ) :
Parking Lights(-) Gray (-) @ headlight switch, White 12 pin plug, Pin 8
A direct hard-wire connection is used ( after setting the Vipers' Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-) ).

H2/1 PNK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT Not used
H2/2 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY INPUT Wire this to ground
H2/3 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT The rear defroster wire is Brown. Below dash fuse box, white 28 pin plug, pin 14
H2/4 GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/5 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/6 GREEN (-) DOOR INPUT* Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/7 BLACK/YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT Not used
H2/8 EMPTY ------------------------------------
H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/10 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT Not used
H2/11 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT Not used
H2/12 VIOLET (+) DOOR INPUT Not used
H2/13 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT Not used
H2/14 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT Not used
H2/15 ORANGE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT Not used
H2/16 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/17 GRAY (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC OR NO) Not used, D2D takes care of this
H2/18 VIOLET/YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT Not used
H2/19 BLUE** FACTORY HORN INPUT (Use Jumper to set polarity) Not used
H2/20 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT Not used
H2/21 WHITE/BLUE ACTIVATION INPUT Not used
H2/22 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT Not used
H2/23 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT D2D takes care of this
H2/24 GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT Not used

For the H3 Harness. You can solder the H3/1 wire to the Green wire on the car then Solder H3/2, H3/5, and H3/8 to the H3/1 wire BEFORE the fuse.

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 11, White wire *
H3/2 RED/WHITE +12V (30A) FLEX RELAY INPUT @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 23, Green wire
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 18, Blue wire **
H3/5 RED +12V FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2/FLEX RELAY OUTPUT @ Smart PCU, Gray Plug, Pin 24, Gray wire ***
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87a Not Used
H3/8 RED/BLACK +12V (30A) ACC/STARTER INPUT @ Fuse Box, Green wire in White 2 Pin Plug

* This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA Pink wire on the 7 Pin connector.
** This wire also goes to the ADS AL CA Black/White wire on 10 Pin connector.
*** Program Viper 4704V Menu 3, Item 8 to Option 2 for Flex Relay = Accessory 2.

For the wires H3/2,3,4,6. The wires are too big to solder to the tiny wires on the car. you can cut 4 wires from harnesses that will not be used at all then solder it to the H3/2,3,4,6. Like this:

Here's the location of the Harnesses on the car.

For the iDatalink Bypass module, follow Type 2 wiring diagram @ http://cdncontent2.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/DL-HA6/DBI-AL(DL)-HA6-EN_20131015.pdf


You can go to your local BestBuy store and ask the Car installation dept to flash the Bypass for you for $10. Wire up everything then go there to program your bypass because they will need to flash the firmware on to it then you or tech do the first off the programming. After that the Bypass have to be connected to the computer again to complete the bypass programming.

The iDatalink bypass module is programmed with a multi-step process, as follows :
1. Have Dealer flash the module with the DBI-AL(DL)-HA6 firmware.
2. Properly make all the necessary connections shown in the install guide. Don't plug in the harnesses yet.
3. Do a Factory Reset on the module and then follow it with the Install Mode selection ( one blink ) and lock it in.
4. Plug in the rest of the bypass plugs.
5. Make sure all doors, trunk, and hood are closed.
Start the actual vehicle programming.
6. At Step 4 disconnect the module and bring to Dealer.
7. Dealer will perform Step 5. ( extended programming )
8. Re-connect the module in the vehicle as per Step 6.
9. Continue the programming process through Step 11.

 

[ExFed]

Wow!

 

[Mick the Quick]

Thanks for posting this. But I must ask since it looks pretty complicated to this noob - how much did you end up saving by DIY? Worth it?

Mick

 

[oOKhanhOo]

Thanks for posting this. But I must ask since it looks pretty complicated to this noob - how much did you end up saving by DIY? Worth it?

Mick

I'm not exactly sure how much. I know I saved money by buying the parts myself. And for labor, I am guessing, $175+..


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[derf]

I'm flattered that you used a pic of my Accord in your montage, OP

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1001350&postcount=13

 

[acumarino]

Awesome

How does the remote work for you? Would you recommend it?

 

[oOKhanhOo]

Awesome

How does the remote work for you? Would you recommend it?

It works great, the range is definitely way better than the factory fob range. I would recommend it if you don't like getting into a cold car.

The ONLY down side of this is that the car shuts off when a door is opened.

Unfortunately, the Accords with PTS, it shuts off when the doors are open.

Murph from iDatalink said

"There is no take over on this platform. The vehicle should die when you open the door. That is how it is designed and there is no way around it."
:thumbsdow

 

[acumarino]

That's what I figured. Can't get around the engine shutting off when u enter the car. Still better than nothing. Thx for the info


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

 

[oOKhanhOo]

I went almost a month (3 weeks to be exact) without having to recharge the LCD remote, its currently charging right now. I used it frequently though. I randomly press Lock and check cabin temperature button to test the range and used the RS about 2-3 times a day.

 

[tb04507]

could you take a picture of the rear defroster and door unlock and lock wire which is found under dash behind the fuse box? there are like two or three plugs with white plugs and 28 wires with the same colors...

 

[ipop]

@oOKhanhOo : How is the remote holding up so far?

 

[oOKhanhOo]

Bump for those who are interested in a Remote start.

 

[ssgokou29]

staying on when doors open, going to miss that feature when i upgrade my sport this year.