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jimnfor

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I know there are a million different ways and products to clean your car, some better than others and some that people swear by and pay outrageous amounts of money for. I personally don't subscribe to the 2 bucket method, nor will I order detail products from the web when the same quality products are readily available at the local auto parts store (yes, same quality).
I'm not bashing anyone for doing what works for them and what they are pleased doing and the results they get.
I'm posting this to show a newbie that just read an 8 page detail thread and is now looking at his next paycheck going to detail equipment that the stuff you buy off the shelf at Walmart will take care of your car just as well as the high priced stuff on the net.
Technique is another topic, again with a million viewpoints. The correct towels/rags for the job etc (again stuff you can buy at Walmart) are equally important as the product.
I started with Rainx foaming car wash (green) dumped in a bucket with a microfiber wash mitt.
Dried with a chamois.
Meguiars wax with a sponge applicator, buffed with clean microfiber towels.
This isn't to start a debate over which products/methods are better or more effective, simply to show how I do it. With no ill effects to the car.
The reflections on both sides of the car easily show the neighbors house and the neighbors truck in his driveway. 50ft or better on either side.

Thanks for taking a look.
 

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obviously, this semi sarcastic text is pointed at my detail thread...so be it...my only disagreement is the microfibers you buy at walmart are crap (about 360 GSM) and will scratch your car long term.

The "9 page thread" is not about getting good gloss - you've proven you can do that - the 9 page thread is about a method to have gloss like this in 3-4 YEARS and far easier than the wax on buff off method above.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
glen, you know better than that. having been on several car/truck forums as well the long detail threads are everywhere. And I honestly have no idea how long your detail thread is because I've never looked at it, 8 was a random # I used. :)
 
this makes absolutely no sense. they have the worst microfiber towels. you cannot detail a car with them. i only use them for interior/cleaning my exhaust and engine and door jambs, etc.

you can literally get ANY thing and make your car shiny. heck...u can use some pledge wood cleaner and see how shiny it will get. the issue is HOW SHINY it STAYS and how DURABLE the wax or whatever you use is against the outside elements and the sun
 
I know there are a million different ways and products to clean your car, some better than others and some that people swear by and pay outrageous amounts of money for. I personally don't subscribe to the 2 bucket method, nor will I order detail products from the web when the same quality products are readily available at the local auto parts store (yes, same quality).
I'm not bashing anyone for doing what works for them and what they are pleased doing and the results they get.
I'm posting this to show a newbie that just read an 8 page detail thread and is now looking at his next paycheck going to detail equipment that the stuff you buy off the shelf at Walmart will take care of your car just as well as the high priced stuff on the net.
Technique is another topic, again with a million viewpoints. The correct towels/rags for the job etc (again stuff you can buy at Walmart) are equally important as the product.
I started with Rainx foaming car wash (green) dumped in a bucket with a microfiber wash mitt.
Dried with a chamois.
Meguiars wax with a sponge applicator, buffed with clean microfiber towels.
This isn't to start a debate over which products/methods are better or more effective, simply to show how I do it. With no ill effects to the car.
The reflections on both sides of the car easily show the neighbors house and the neighbors truck in his driveway. 50ft or better on either side.

Thanks for taking a look.
Will be trying this from Walmart $25.
 

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Discussion starter · #9 ·
this makes absolutely no sense. they have the worst microfiber towels. you cannot detail a car with them. i only use them for interior/cleaning my exhaust and engine and door jambs, etc.

you can literally get ANY thing and make your car shiny. heck...u can use some pledge wood cleaner and see how shiny it will get. the issue is HOW SHINY it STAYS and how DURABLE the wax or whatever you use is against the outside elements and the sun

Mikey you can really, and I did! And it's ok. And you are correct, you can get a lot of things to make your car shine and you can pay a ton for those or not so much.

This falls into the 'which oil', 'correct tire pressure', 'injector cleaner', 'premium gas' categories. It's all what make you happy.
 
The big problem is this whole cheap wash and wax plan is forgetting the important step....polish before wax. Polish enables wax to adhere and be a lot more durable.

Wax on and off some "Walmart" meguires ultimate compound before you wax.....
 
mothers and meguiars lasts 3 weeks tops in my weather. Sure it can shine but its a pita to get off, and doesn't last.
 
I'm coming from a 15 year old Benz with over 230k miles. No paint problems what-so-ever, but it was a Benz. However when I was looking for an Accord I drove some with 100k on them that were 8 or 9 years newer than my Benz and the paint was already starting to fade out on a few of them.

The cheap products work "great" if all you care about is a temporary shine on a new car but I bought this Accord to last and don't really want to be putting another paint job on the car in 10 years. A little up front is worth it to save a lot of hassle later. Yes it did cost more but the funny thing is I'm using less per a 6 month cycle than the mequires 3 step process (yes from wal-mart). And if you watch sales online it's really not that much more in the long run. You have a new car. Of course it's going to shine when you buff it. :dunno: Your missing the point.

So far the Blackfire products have held the finish much better. The meguires wasn't "bad" but don't cut down the better products just because your cheap. If your going to use the cheap products (at least your doing something) then put some polish on the car before you wax it.

Mikey you can really, and I did! And it's ok. And you are correct, you can get a lot of things to make your car shine and you can pay a ton for those or not so much.
Sure your new car shines now but address D-U-R-A-B-I-L-T-Y or shine the next month after you wax it. Post some picture of your swirly glossiness in two years and then this thread will have some credibility.

This falls into the 'which oil', 'correct tire pressure', 'injector cleaner', 'premium gas' categories. It's all what make you happy.
It's like those guys that buy a new Mercedes and complain it runs like crap because they put Castrol 10w30 oil and regular gas in it. I've worked on too many MB's that had previous owners with that mentality. It's an amazing car that runs forever unless it's been neglected a few simple things. Then it's a car not worth touching. With 230k miles on a 98 E320 running Mobile1 0w40 (the only oil that meets the correct certifications for their engines) I had zero oil loss over 10k oil changes.

For the spirit of relativity throw some 87 Octane in that diesel 2500HD ... Meh ... It's all relative anyway. lol
 
Not that I'm an expert (detailed professionally for 5 years) but Meguiars is decent cheap wax. However, it will wear off quickly. I haven't tried any yet, but I've heard good things about Collinite 845. Obviously you would need to prep your paint properly before any wax job. Clay, buff with compound, etc.
 
Concur with what the other said regarding Meguiars. It is an awesome brand with short durability. Meguiars are my go to products when I want a "wet" look for a weekend cruise. For a more long term thing I go to Blackfire, Klasse, or Collinite.

And don't forget this: the car is new right now and has an almost pristine surface. When you need to do paint correction down the road, the Walmart products simply won't do it if you want to do it right.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
I'm coming from a 15 year old Benz with over 230k miles. No paint problems what-so-ever, but it was a Benz. However when I was looking for an Accord I drove some with 100k on them that were 8 or 9 years newer than my Benz and the paint was already starting to fade out on a few of them.

The cheap products work "great" if all you care about is a temporary shine on a new car but I bought this Accord to last and don't really want to be putting another paint job on the car in 10 years. A little up front is worth it to save a lot of hassle later. Yes it did cost more but the funny thing is I'm using less per a 6 month cycle than the mequires 3 step process (yes from wal-mart). And if you watch sales online it's really not that much more in the long run. You have a new car. Of course it's going to shine when you buff it. :dunno: Your missing the point.

So far the Blackfire products have held the finish much better. The meguires wasn't "bad" but don't cut down the better products just because your cheap. If your going to use the cheap products (at least your doing something) then put some polish on the car before you wax it.



Sure your new car shines now but address D-U-R-A-B-I-L-T-Y or shine the next month after you wax it. Post some picture of your swirly glossiness in two years and then this thread will have some credibility.



It's like those guys that buy a new Mercedes and complain it runs like crap because they put Castrol 10w30 oil and regular gas in it. I've worked on too many MB's that had previous owners with that mentality. It's an amazing car that runs forever unless it's been neglected a few simple things. Then it's a car not worth touching. With 230k miles on a 98 E320 running Mobile1 0w40 (the only oil that meets the correct certifications for their engines) I had zero oil loss over 10k oil changes.

For the spirit of relativity throw some 87 Octane in that diesel 2500HD ... Meh ... It's all relative anyway. lol
It's a gasser, so 87 goes in it every time :banana:

I never cut down a product, re-read my post if you need to. I simply stated what I do and the results you can get from using less expensive products. No swirls either, not today nor years from now I can assure you that.
 
No swirls either, not today nor years from now I can assure you that.
You had me going until the last line of your last post. I don't care if you use the most expensive stuff and the "best methods" or if you use the "cheaper" products there is no way around swirls.

You can minimize them by using the "correct" methods and the "best" products but you will still get swirls.
 
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