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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Driving to work today my 2003 Accord's battery light came on. It stayed on for the remainder of the day. I was able to drive around with it on until I started to look around under the hood. Here is what I noticed. With everything off and the doors closed the voltage is around 12.3. If I open the door (dome lights on) the voltage starts dropping in the hundredths place pretty quickly (12.32, 12.31. 12.30, etc) If I stick the key in and turn the key to the II position (dash now on) the voltage starts to take a nose dive (12.3, 12.2, 12.1, etc) and it will keep falling until I stop it. If I remove the keys and shut the door the voltage goes back up to high 11s low 12s. While idling I am only getting 11.5 volts but it drops quickly into the 10 range. When I turn everything off again it heads back to 12ish. I watched the voltage as I revved up and it was in the 11s until I hit like 3000rpm it jumped to 13 and after i released the gas pedal shot up to 14.3ish where it remained with a little fluctuation. After this the battery light went off. Previous things I noticed before today are that if I were to leave my door open/keys in the battery would die withing 15 minutes. Also when I give the vehicle gas the voltage drops(headlights dim) but when I release the pedal they get super bright almost like getting a boost of voltage. has anyone ever experienced anything like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No idea. I bought the car used and someone thought it was a good idea to mark all over the upc with a sharpie. More than two years old I am guessing. Do I need to remove the alternator to have it tested or can they test with it in place?
 

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Take it to Autozone, Advanced Auto, Pep Boys, etc....

They will test your battery and alternator for free. You don't have to do anything except start it up and hold it at the rpm they tell you to. Two minutes later, you will get their little print out report.

Also a good time to check your connections to make sure there is no corrosion.
 

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2006 Accord EX-L i4 4D
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Sounds like a weak battery. If your car is an i4, this is not surprising. I agree, go get it checked. If you're looking at replacement, search the v6 upgrade threads on here. I did it a year ago, and it rocks. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No corrosion on the terminals but I will take the advice and stop by an auto store and have them check the battery/alt.

It is not an i4 but a v6.
 

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Dead Battery

Driving to work today my 2003 Accord's battery light came on. It stayed on for the remainder of the day. I was able to drive around with it on until I started to look around under the hood. Here is what I noticed. With everything off and the doors closed the voltage is around 12.3. If I open the door (dome lights on) the voltage starts dropping in the hundredths place pretty quickly (12.32, 12.31. 12.30, etc) If I stick the key in and turn the key to the II position (dash now on) the voltage starts to take a nose dive (12.3, 12.2, 12.1, etc) and it will keep falling until I stop it. If I remove the keys and shut the door the voltage goes back up to high 11s low 12s. While idling I am only getting 11.5 volts but it drops quickly into the 10 range. When I turn everything off again it heads back to 12ish. I watched the voltage as I revved up and it was in the 11s until I hit like 3000rpm it jumped to 13 and after i released the gas pedal shot up to 14.3ish where it remained with a little fluctuation. After this the battery light went off. Previous things I noticed before today are that if I were to leave my door open/keys in the battery would die withing 15 minutes. Also when I give the vehicle gas the voltage drops(headlights dim) but when I release the pedal they get super bright almost like getting a boost of voltage. has anyone ever experienced anything like this?
If you're only getting about 12v with engine running, your alternator is dead or one of the contacts is bad. You should be reading between 14v - 14.5v
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you're only getting about 12v with engine running, your alternator is dead or one of the contacts is bad. You should be reading between 14v - 14.5v
Thats the thing once it ran for like 4-5 minutes out of nowhere it shot up 14ish volts. I had the guy at the auto store hook up the tester and both the alternator and battery came back as good. He then did a drainage test and that came back okay. I checked the terminals and scratched the terminal and wires up for better contact and I have had the same issue. The battery light is on every morning until I revv up the engine a few times then it goes away. There is w whirring noise near the drive belt area but I cannot say for sure the belt is bad or the alternator is bad.
 

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belt slippin
 
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