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Just got my car back from the shop. Thought long and hard about parting ways with it but since I can't afford another car (story of my life) I'll just have to keep it going.

Valve cover gasket leak repaired. It was cracked & brittle and had been contributing to a nice slow oil leak that I had neglected for years. $150

Horn was stuck ON. Had to pull the relay because it went off in the middle of the night in my apartment complex and wouldn't stop. New (used) horn pad. $150

Right front axle. These seem to be made of glass in the 6th gen accords. Between the two I own, I think this is my third axle job in about 120k miles of driving. This axle was broken in two places and holding on for dear life. $225

Had to cannibalize the passenger seat because the drivers seat was painfully worn. Zero luck finding replacement seats of decent condition. I have found someone who can reupholster them which seems to be the only option.

Aside from the body damage, non-existent paint, and windows propped up with sticks, the car is great.
 

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@bcgreen;, if you are capable of doing your own wrenching, you could save even more money. For example, the valve cover gasket job. The gasket itself is no more than $40.

The right front axle, if it keeps snapping like that then the place you get replacements from are probably using sub-par materials when building them. I'm on my 20yr original axles and I'm at 343k miles.

Reupholstering seats seems to be pretty common. However, seats can be found in decent shape if you look hard enough. I've gone to my local JY's recently and have found seats to be in fair shape....certainly better than mine, but obviously no brand new.

Body damage and paint, definitely body shop stuff. Well....the paint stuff can be rattle canned "fixed" or even wrapped for much cheaper, but still. As for the windows propped up with sticks, those are your window regulators. Take off the door panel, which should be just two screws, a panel that just pops out, and several plastic pins that pop out when you pull the door panel, and the door panel comes out. Be sure to disconnect the wire harnesses for power windows and power locks when it's free.

But overall, I hear you on keeping a car longer vs buying a new car. I'm in the same boat.
 

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@bcgreen;, if you are capable of doing your own wrenching, you could save even more money. For example, the valve cover gasket job. The gasket itself is no more than $40.

The right front axle, if it keeps snapping like that then the place you get replacements from are probably using sub-par materials when building them. I'm on my 20yr original axles and I'm at 343k miles.

Reupholstering seats seems to be pretty common. However, seats can be found in decent shape if you look hard enough. I've gone to my local JY's recently and have found seats to be in fair shape....certainly better than mine, but obviously no brand new.

Body damage and paint, definitely body shop stuff. Well....the paint stuff can be rattle canned "fixed" or even wrapped for much cheaper, but still. As for the windows propped up with sticks, those are your window regulators. Take off the door panel, which should be just two screws, a panel that just pops out, and several plastic pins that pop out when you pull the door panel, and the door panel comes out. Be sure to disconnect the wire harnesses for power windows and power locks when it's free.

But overall, I hear you on keeping a car longer vs buying a new car. I'm in the same boat.
The valve cover gaskets were actually difficult to remove from the cover per my mechanic which I was concerned about going in. I am reasonably good at fixing things but its been in the upper 90s for weeks on end here in NC and I work on the car in the parking lot which of course has no shade. I actually did all of the work on the seats at 2 AM and still ended up drenched in sweat.

Between my two Accords I have replaced 3 out of 4 OEM axles. I have not replaced any of the aftermarket ones yet. Even though the window motor regulators are out I'm okay with the sticks. They add character. Plus the A/C runs great (a feature I like about Accords) and its always hot and humid out anyway.

I'm satisfied with the amount I paid and wanted everyone to have a ballpark if someone is looking for information. At the end of the day short of some major repairs its still running too well to take out of service.
 

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I replaced the door lock actuator today.


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Noticed last week that my clutch was starting to slowly let itself out, so today I replaced both the master and slave cylinders. Not too hard; the master is kind of a PITA because it's wedged in there between the firewall and the strut tower. Sometimes I forget how gross neglected brake fluid can get - that crap looked like molasses coming out of there. ?
 

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Noticed last week that my clutch was starting to slowly let itself out, so today I replaced both the master and slave cylinders. Not too hard; the master is kind of a PITA because it's wedged in there between the firewall and the strut tower. Sometimes I forget how gross neglected brake fluid can get - that crap looked like molasses coming out of there. ?
I did that same job as well 50,000 miles ago but cheaped out and did not replace the slave cylinder. I couldn't find the tool I needed to get the hydraulic line off at any of the parts stores and had to get it from a tool truck. Like you said, there was very little room to work.
 

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So this is something I might do to our 6th gen today.

I'm in a dilemma with my kiddo's 2002 V6 EX-L. It's at the "fix or replace" point right now. It was obviously not that well cared for, and there is a lot of rust on the underbody (typical of our area, but seems to be worse than normal). Right now, I have it up on stands, debating if I should start replacing the fuel tank or just sell the thing off as a mechanic's special and get something a lot more reliable. The V6 runs nicely and the interior is in good shape, but I still haven't tackled the notorious transmission issue (which hasn't gotten any worse over the two years we've had it). Aside from the fuel tank, I was going to replace all the rubber in the front suspension and the ball joints, since they are starting to dry out and make noise. I'm not sure about the exhaust--it is intact, but I fear I am going to have to disconnect it to get the subframe out, as I don't trust it enough to drop it and hope none of the joints break. (It's already been patched in the rear, so I can't disconnect one of the mufflers anymore since they eliminated the joint.) The other brake line is corroded and I suspect it will start leaking once this winter's salted roads attack it. I've already had to have a garage replace the other side.

My only other option is to attempt to sell, and return/sell the remaining parts I have. Quite frankly I'm tired of dealing with it. We did not pay much for it, so it's not a huge loss. I've found a few Acura TSX possibilities as a replacement. So those are kinda-sorta an Accord... ?
 

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Kaua‘i North Shore Boi.Aloha❤️???
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Aloha..

  1. Yesterday, I removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the fuel injectors on my '99 Accord LX 2.3 with 184,4xx miles.. I've had it for a year and couple months, I've done so many things to it, I've lost count. I'll list later. Let's just say the previous 2 owners didn't do a damn thing! ATF first drain was like coffee. BLACK coffee.. Anyway. That was a bit ago. Think I saved it. Can't get rid of two codes, but I'm working on it!
  2. Aloha ❤??????❤
Aloha..

P.S. IDK why my post has numbers.. lol

Aloha.. I call her, The Beast. Had Her a little over a year.. 184,4xx, 1999 Accord LX Sedan 2.3.. Previous owners didn't do a dang thing maintenance wise.. First time I drained the ATF, it was like black coffee. Cleaned solenoids, changed wires twice (plugsx3), distributor, alternator, power steering intake hose, intake manifold gasket set, Valve cover gaskets set, cleaned fuel injectors, cleaned practically EVERYTHING. It had a distributor o ring leak when I got it. Wire harnesses were full of oil. It leaked to the ECM. Sprayed CRC electronics cleaner and used a hair dryer twice so far. Also resoldered main relay.. Some dumb kid cut out the car converter in the past, and it shifted, so I tightened that up. Replaced knock sensor, power steering pressure switch, 2nd gear pressure switch, air filter, oil filter, changed oil twice. I'm sure I've done more, but can't remember right now haha Still got codes 1238 and 1729 popping up I think.. My VTEC works after reset, then once I manual shift my automatic to D4, it eventually stops and codes come back. But hey, the damn thing runs somehow! K.. I need to go to bed. Aloha Gen 6ers.. Have a good Friday.
Aloha?
 

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changed the passenger rear wheel bearing when i first got the car in may i did the drivers side rear. it took me 6 hours and alot of swear words to replace. this one i was in out in mins. since i have learned from my mistakes from the first one. this one was way over due. i like to change things in pairs. but i didnt when i first got the car.
 

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Overdue is an understatement!
 

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Well there’s a long list of things I’ve done with this thing since I got it, too many pictures to post

1999 Honda Accord LX 5 speed. 170,xxx miles.

had mold all the way around, so I gutted the bitch. Cleaned the metal, and started sounded deadening, everything. Trunk has 3 layers All the way around, roof has 2 layers, floor has 2 layers plus a layer of CCF

I have 2 choices when it comes to carpet, either change it to turf green like I got, or I find a grey/black one from pick n pull, detail the living hell out of it, then put that in.

I have 2 Odessey PC2150s in the back, both grounded to the frame, I am running 2-3 runs of 1/0 to the front, where a H/O Ohio Gen 260a alt is at, batteries in the rear are gonna be charged independently from the main battery. And rear batteries grounded at the alt case.

i knocked out the clock, glassed a volt meter in its place to monitor my amps so I’m not dropping to low in voltage.

thats what I got so far. Always willing to learn!!
 

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Was in the junkyard looking for a sway bar for my CRX when I found an 6th gen with a perfect leather wrapped steering wheel. Picked it up for $10 and slapped it in my car. The pewter isn’t a 100% match to my grey interior, but it feels 100x better in the hand and looks so much nicer than the gross, disintegrating stock one.


516884
 

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Kaua‘i North Shore Boi.Aloha❤️???
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So.. Cleaned the gaskets on my vtec mechanism again two days ago (this things holding Sludge!), had to buy some bolts from Ace because I've broken the tops off 2 of the 3 original bolts. (And I wanna get the vice grips outta there, I Mcgyver when I gotta haha). So, put it all back together (but gangsta rigged) by 3 am, and Had to test drive. Go to a close by beach, before I pass the last pulloff before the highway, I think, "I should reset and do the idle relearn procedure", then I notice the Oil Puddles. My VTEC had a major leak. Long story short, Karma is real, only had to wait maybe a hour half before a Friend stopped in his truck and we got more oil, ended up using 7 quarts to get Home???. Sorry Earth. I pick up so much trash, and then this crap happens.. Used 3 paper towel rolls to soak up the oil by the beach. ☹ And the culprit: stripped screw. Ughhhhh. So, 2 more stripped screws and I broken head(brah.. Ace bolts.. ? Later, another Mcgyver ghetto rig, the cast iron base part crumbling from the vice grips (the top one in the picture looks like a C without the right half now), and a new VTEC on the way off eBay, and I'll be driving with VTEC again. Now I've definitely done basically EVERYTHING inside the engine. Currently driving Mcgyvered together, with both plugs unplugged. But on the road! Thank goodness I stopped when I did! No oil on the dipstick. Guess My oil light doesn't work either! lol MAHALO MAHALO

Aloha???

-Kimo
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Aloha!
 

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Installed some aftermarket headlights last week. Fitment is kinda meh on the driver side. I had to remove the intake resonator in order for it to fit (which the barely legible instructions failed to mention). They were $130 for the pair though, so I'm not complaining.
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headlights are Spec-D Halo Projectors

I can post a link to where I bought them if anyone is interested (I can't post links in my first post I guess)
 
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