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· Turbo lag
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3,127 Posts
I took another hour last night to remove and clean all the fluid connection hardware, removing the turbine housing etc. Estimate another hour to put it on the new one and re-clocking the CHRA. Probably 3 hours to put it in since I have to add an oil change in there too. So somewhere around 8 hours total.
I am the king of underestimation. It took 6 hours to put everything back, so closer to 12-13hrs total. Still high 20s out, I can't feel most of my body.
While the GT3071R is a direct swap to the GT3076R, the compressor housing bolts are in different spots in relative to the outlet. In addition, I clocked the CHRA a bit differently so it considers the tilt on the K24 and the tilt underload a bit more. This meant that I had to reroute both coolant lines and the oil feed. The result is a tighter clearance in many spots that I would need to observe over the course of next few thousand miles. The compressor inlet is also longer, so now it sits directly over the rear engine mount, the clearance is very tight. I probably need to ziptie my GoPro to the brakelines and observe it under load. I changed the oil, and topped off the coolant, ready for start tomorrow.

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· port & polish everything
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I took another hour last night to remove and clean all the fluid connection hardware, removing the turbine housing etc. Estimate another hour to put it on the new one and re-clocking the CHRA. Probably 3 hours to put it in since I have to add an oil change in there too. So somewhere around 8 hours total.

No idea. I guess it didn't fail out of nowhere. This week, it was making like a slightly grinding sound on cold start up, but I didn't think too much about it since it spooled fine and post shut off it also sounded fine. All the fluid lines looked good when removing them.
I did get the 3076R used, it was previously used on a Mazdaspeed 3 for 10k miles supposedly. Then I put another 55K miles on it.

Looking back at this post, I think I'm pretty safe on the speed side of things.
I see, 60k-70k is probably ok for an aftermarket turbo of partially unknown history. Apparently it would have barely survived a typical powertrain warranty. Maybe the coolant and oil flow rate might be low since those systems weren't sized for a turbo also, but not much you can readily do for that. Hopefully the next one lasts the rest of the car.

Since I was already looking at this thread, I had both my cars washed up yesterday. Ready for Happy Vday.

 

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· Registered
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677 Posts
Not really related to my 8th gen but I did see my previous car, a Toyota Avalon that got hit in an intersection (my fault) 5 years ago, on the street again. I sold it to the towing company as it was too old to worry about fixing.

Looks like they never did get a matching alloy wheel and now it's transporting mattresses. Kind of sad.

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· 2010 2.4EX
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1,289 Posts
Not really related to my 8th gen but I did see my previous car, a Toyota Avalon that got hit
in an intersection (my fault) 5 years ago, on the street again. I sold it to the towing company
as it was too old to worry about fixing.

Looks like they never did get a matching alloy wheel and now it's transporting
mattresses. Kind of sad.

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I call Avalons 'retirement-mobiles', owing to almost always seeing a flash of gray or white hair behind the wheel of one, when I'm out and about!

At least 9/10 of them have a moonroof.
 

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I call Avalons 'retirement-mobiles', owing to almost always seeing a flash of gray or white hair behind the wheel of one, when I'm out and about!

At least 9/10 of them have a moonroof.
Yes they weren't much to look at but they were sure were comfortable inside. And the boatload of room for passengers in the back.
 

· 2010 2.4EX
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1,289 Posts
Yes they weren't much to look at but they were sure were comfortable inside. And the boatload of room for passengers in the back.
Appearance-wise, I prefer the generation immediately after yours.


The one after that, too weird!
 
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92 Posts
Deer hit:

Insurance quoted about $3600 including my deductible for repair. The major issue is the dented rad support. Headlight brackets are busted, and the hood is crunched on the right side. The right fender got pushed back some. I was actually able to drive it to the body shop albeit at 40 mph max with my wife following in the Odyssey.
Well, now that the body shop submitted a supplemental to the insurance, it's a total loss. :(
 

· V6 Supremacist 😎
Victus - 2012 Honda Accord (EX-L V6)
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2,598 Posts
Well, now that the body shop submitted a supplemental to the insurance, it's a total loss. :(
Sorry to hear that. I hope you find the grass to be greener on the other side like I did.

Any idea what additional damage was found? Purely curious.
 
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· BACK TO THE FUTURE!!!
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Well, now that the body shop submitted a supplemental to the insurance, it's a total loss. :(
I have a gently used 9th gen accord in my garage if you're interested.

A small dent here and there. Relatively low miles, compared to @TX Accord.

Srsly though, sucks to hear about your car. Any ideas on what you are going to buy as a replacement?

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Sorry to hear that. I hope you find the grass to be greener on the other side like I did.

Any idea what additional damage was found? Purely curious.
So, I've driven past the body shop once a week since dropping it off on Jan, 30th and it hasn't moved from that spot. The insurance man said that the body shop had found additional damage after taking it apart, but there is no evidence of the car being touched since I dropped it off. No handprints on the hood of the car (there's a layer of dust). No body panels taken off, etc. I did more work to the car myself than they did, and they told the insurance company there's more damage. Totally fishy. I'm going to find another body shop to do the work. If the radiator support is replaced, I can replace the body panels and paint them myself.
 
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Went and rescued the Accord. Insurance will payout around $2300 and only cover it for liability since it's totaled. Got another quote from a different body shop to just replace the radiator support and they said around $650 minus parts.

Really just need some odds and ends:
  • radiator support - $232 shipped
  • radiator/grill panel - $44 shipped
  • headlight brackets - ~$30 shipped
  • hood - $150-200 shipped
  • fender - $190 shipped
They claimed one of the fog lights were damaged, but I had only unplugged it to remove the bumper and didn't bother to plug it back in.
 

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Installed LED backup lights. Lasfit L7443 They were 15% off. I might change the DRLs to LED. Don’t plan on any other exterior LED changes.

 

· Turbo lag
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3,127 Posts
I swapped out the compressor housing on the new turbo this weekend.
New housing is also a genuine Garrett unit. Geometrically identical to the old one, but with a 2.75in inlet vs 4in inlet on the old one. This buys me plenty of clearance against the motor mount.

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Also drove around aimlessly for about 100miles this weekend to help break in the turbo further. After 200miles of no boost break in, I got into boost for the first time today. Nothing crazy, 4000rpm and about 4lbs of boost, the GT3071R definitely spools earlier. Probably needs a few more hundred miles of gentle mild boost break in before I can go all out at 8lbs and 7000+rpm.
 

· Turbo lag
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3,127 Posts
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The car acts like I'm made out of money. 😅
Anyways, @outersquare got me thinking on why the turbo failed in the first place. Sure, it's had a fairly long life (my tribology professor agrees). But couldn't hurt to be a bit more cautious. This one will replace the Mishimoto sandwich plate for turbo oil feed. The big difference here is that this sandwich plate uses fresh oil from the filtered side instead of the unfiltered side. Although on start up, you would run unfiltered oil due to bypass anyways. More complex design and more expensive. I do wonder if the through holes are enough flow (since this was designed for the B and D series), although I'm sure the area is already significant larger than the oil filter inlets.
 
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