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What did you do to Your 8th gen today?

106567 Views 1562 Replies 127 Participants Last post by  dgates01
I've been wanting to do Something to my Accord so why not Plasti Dip. Just finished it today.

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When I needed spark plugs for my 2010 I just went to the local AutoZone and grabbed some. About $15 each.
Daughter's 2011 LX Sedan got the dreaded CEL and misfire codes for #2 and #3 ... again. Finally found a post by John Clark on the Odyclub forums.

He was right ... numerous repair procedures in the Honda shop manuals call for a PCM reset and idle relearn after buttoning everything up. It's that way for Honda & Acura shop manuals covering my ancient Odyssey, 8th Gen Accords, 6th Gen Accord, and 2nd Gen Acura TL.

So, I did the PCM reset, and another CKP pattern clear and relearn. Then, idle relearn.

Accord drives smoothly, now. Better than it did, before. Idle is smoother, and it doesn't feel like it's going to fall on its face when I power up the A/C.

Wish I'd done this the first time. Curiously, the first misfire scenario in January of this year 2023 happened after I changed the starter in late 2022. I only performed a CKP pattern clear & re-learn (after changing plugs and checking valve clearances and moving coils around to try and isolate the misfires).

OF
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What did I do today? Calculated my fuel economy - 30.1 mpg over the past two weeks. Not bad for an 11-year old, 217,000-mile car that was originally rated 19 city / 29 highway.
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What did I do today? Calculated my fuel economy - 30.1 mpg over the past two weeks. Not bad for an 11-year old, 217,000-mile car that was originally rated 19 city / 29 highway.
I'm the dummy using my Accord for deliveries, so I'm getting mileage closer to the lower end of the scale. 🙁
I like the car a lot, but I have started researching used hybrids.
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I realize that the gauge isn't linear so this isn't a great measure but I've driven my Odyssey probably close to 85-90ish miles since filling up, and I was surprised to see that the fuel needle has hardly moved at all. I get really great fuel economy, and it doesn't even have that VCM junk.

Anyway, for more on-topic news, my new air filters for the Accord are supposed to come in tomorrow, so I'll probably put those in and get some other stuff done, including vacuuming up the interior (I hear leaves are supposed to stay outside...), recoating the interior with 303, and recoating the headlights since I'm approaching a year on the initial coating I applied last July.

I suspect tomorrow is going to be one of those days where I'm grateful for working in a garage, given the rain in the forecast.

And I plan to take it in for maintenance at the 30k mark sometime next week.
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I got a little sidetracked and had to run a few errands so I didn't get a chance to coat the headlights or vacuum and coat the interior, but this is the first time I've had Victus in the garage since mid-January, so I did make sure to give things a good look over, and I did get plenty done. I'm not sure if I'll be able to, but I'll try to fit those last things in sometime tomorrow, else it will have to wait.

First order of business was the cabin air filter, which I can do in my sleep now (it's a lot easier on this than my Odyssey where you have to pry out the stoppers). Here's the comparison:


For reference, the old filter is an OEM Honda filter and was replaced in June 2017 at roughly 16k miles, so it had about 6 years and 13k on it. The new filter is this EPAuto filter I got off Amazon:

After that was taken care of, I moved on to the engine air filter. This was no simple task. I take back what I said when I first got this car about the space in the engine bay. There really isn't a ton of space at the airbox. The screws holding it together were far too tight for me to be able to get them loose with my 1/4in drive screwdriver and an 8mm, but there also wasn't enough space for my ratchet that would have made short work of it. So I resorted to using some channel lock pliers on the screwdriver handle to get enough leverage. That did the trick. The only other slight annoyance was that the placement of my VCMTuner II was right in the same area as one of the airbox screws, meanign I had to work around it. But that wasn't too terrible.

Here's that comparison:


Neither CarFax nor Honda's MyGarage have any record of this filter having been replaced, so it very well could be the original filter. Even if that's the case, it really doesn't look all that bad. New filter is also an EPAuto filter:

Needless to say, it's definitely time for an oil change based on the dipstick:


I don't think I've ever let my oil get that dark before, except after running some additives in my 2010. Happy to see that the level is still perfect, though. And while I was in the area, I checked on the front spool valve. Bone dry, so I'm still good there. I'm not going to let that ruin my day on the side of the highway. I plan to catch it the moment it starts.

Lastly, since I had the engine cover off to check on the spool valve, I decided to take the opportunity to properly degrease it and recoat it in 303. Looks quite excellent now, as does the rest of the engine bay:


The intake manifold is getting a bit dirty at the rear edge of the plenum cover though, so I'll have to clean that up at some point.
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Serpentine belt, hand wash, and stopped for a quick picture.

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And while I was in the area, I checked on the front spool valve. Bone dry, so I'm still good there. I'm not going to let that ruin my day on the side of the highway. I plan to catch it the moment it starts.
... and because of this DriveAccord.net forum, I've been made aware of this front spool problem. Keeping an eye on it as well with our own 2012 EX-L V6.

OF
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... and because of this DriveAccord.net forum, I've been made aware of this front spool problem. Keeping an eye on it as well with our own 2012 EX-L V6.

OF
Because of @WiiMaster pointing this out, I started checking the area around the spool valve every time I checked my oil. When it did start to leak, I took it in, and the service advisor said I was the first customer he could remember who was replacing the spool valve without also having to swap the alternator. He actually had to look up the price, because he was accustomed to just quoting the two parts together.
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Because of @WiiMaster pointing this out, I started checking the area around the spool valve every time I checked my oil. When it did start to leak, I took it in, and the service advisor said I was the first customer he could remember who was replacing the spool valve without also having to swap the alternator. He actually had to look up the price, because he was accustomed to just quoting the two parts together.
Out of curiosity, do you recall if they replaced the entire spool valve or just the top half with the gasket (which is the procedure outlined in Honda's TSB for this issue, but I've noticed not all dealerships go this route)? The parts cost is the same for both since the spool valve is only sold as an assembly, but the labor cost is significantly less for the TSB procedure, as the full replacement procedure requires removal of the valve cover and rocker arms.
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Out of curiosity, do you recall if they replaced the entire spool valve or just the top half with the gasket (which is the procedure outlined in Honda's TSB for this issue, but I've noticed not all dealerships go this route)? The parts cost is the same for both since the spool valve is only sold as an assembly, but the labor cost is significantly less for the TSB procedure, as the full replacement procedure requires removal of the valve cover and rocker arms.
They did the full repair, but I was also having the valves adjusted, so the price didn’t end up being too bad.
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Out of paranoia, I opened the hood of wifey's 2012 EX-L V6 sedan and checked the spool valve.

Bone dry. Keeping it that way with a small dose of ATP AT-205 with every oil change.

Mobil 1 High Mileage oil already has a seal conditioner in its additives package, so I'm only adding about 65ml to 70ml. No mathematically based reason for this, other than it works out to just over 1 fl oz per 2 quarts of oil capacity.

Just for background, my Acura TL had an annoying RMS leak that I cured by adding a full bottle of ATP AT-205 when I got the car back in 2020. For subsequent OCI's after this I'm using 1 fl oz per 2 quarts of oil changed dosing of AT-205, and it is no longer leaking any oil whatsoever.

Given that positive result, I'm doing same with the Accord to forestall any spool valve leaks, if possible.

OF
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Installed the in-cabin boost controller. Being able to change the boost pressure while moving is nice, especially for altitude compensation.
Also put a new battery in the coupe and revived it.
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And I plan to take it in for maintenance at the 30k mark sometime next week.
That was supposed to be today, but apparently the tech at the shop is out all week, so it'll have to be next week.

I did at least talk to him and nail down what's on the docket. I can confirm that at long last, the timing belt will be replaced. Hope you all can rest easier now knowing that. :ROFLMAO:

Outside of that, it's mostly the stuff you'd expect. Oil, ATF, brake fluid, coolant, and just a general inspection. Also a tire rotation/balance. I wonder if that'll fix the very slight highway vibration I've been feeling on occasion.
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I vacuumed up that area of the plenum cover I was talking about before.
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Looks much better now. However, while vacuuming it up, it didn't seem like just dirt like I thought before. Unfortunately, it looks more like droppings left by an animal. I don't see any other signs of animal intrusion, but it's something I'll have to keep an eye on. Can't say I've had that issue before.

And while I had the vacuum out, I cleaned up the carpet and seats. Crazy what just a bit of vacuuming can do.
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All that's left is the headlights and interior coating, then it'll be time to send Victus back to the street. :LOL:

Part of me feels like just cleaning off the headlights and not bothering with another coating of protectant. I don't really feel like taping up and covering the area around the lights again to spray it, I'd be content with just leaving it be and spending the $25 to get it cleared up when the time comes, but the other part of me knows I have that coating sitting around doing nothing and an ounce of prevention is a pound of cure.
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I like the car a lot, but I have started researching used hybrids.
Was walking my dog past a person in the neighborhood who was just getting out of a 2023 Accord Hybrid. I have not seen one before and I asked if I could take it a look. This friendly guy could work for a Honda dealership, because he was so informative about it. It gets 51 in the city and 44 overall (even with his 2.0 engine). Most of my 2010 Accord driving is city, and so that's potentially almost 30 miles more per gallon than I'm getting.

I was so envious. He said he spent $37,000. I think I could get $9,000 for my Accord, so $28k more for something like that. A bit out of my price range, but I know there are lower trims that are still hybrids.
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Part of me feels like just cleaning off the headlights and not bothering with another coating of protectant. I don't really feel like taping up and covering the area around the lights again to spray it, I'd be content with just leaving it be and spending the $25 to get it cleared up when the time comes, but the other part of me knows I have that coating sitting around doing nothing and an ounce of prevention is a pound of cure.
So the headlights were the last thing I took care of today before I finally brought it back outside from the garage. Interior coating will have to be another time. I don't think it's too bad right now though, it should still be good enough to handle the sun of early summer.

I actually did go through the trouble of taping around the lights:



Honestly, taping up these headlights could probably be a full time job with their odd shape. It may look cool, but it's certainly not the easiest thing to tape, especially when you're trying to be precise like I was.

I was preparing to clean off the old coating with some IPA and then spray on a fresh coat. However, while I was cleaning it off, I noticed that the plastic was already beginning to show some signs of oxidation that you can't really see in the photos but you can see with an up close look.

Considering that the instructions on the coating say to apply it on a freshly restored headlight and these were going to be sitting outside with the bit of oxidation that's on them now, after seeing this, it didn't seem worth it to me, so I decided to forgo the respray and leave them bare for now. When the oxidation gets worse, I'll just pay the $25 to restore them and apply the coating immediately after.

So all that effort masking off the light ended up being for nothing. 😭
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So the headlights were the last thing I took care of today before I finally brought it back outside from the garage. Interior coating will have to be another time. I don't think it's too bad right now though, it should still be good enough to handle the sun of early summer.

I actually did go through the trouble of taping around the lights:
View attachment 550168
View attachment 550169

Honestly, taping up these headlights could probably be a full time job with their odd shape. It may look cool, but it's certainly not the easiest thing to tape, especially when you're trying to be precise like I was.

I was preparing to clean off the old coating with some IPA and then spray on a fresh coat. However, while I was cleaning it off, I noticed that the plastic was already beginning to show some signs of oxidation that you can't really see in the photos but you can see with an up close look.

Considering that the instructions on the coating say to apply it on a freshly restored headlight and these were going to be sitting outside with the bit of oxidation that's on them now, after seeing this, it didn't seem worth it to me, so I decided to forgo the respray and leave them bare for now. When the oxidation gets worse, I'll just pay the $25 to restore them and apply the coating immediately after.

So all that effort masking off the light ended up being for nothing. 😭
If you do the sanding and buffing and applying coating procedure I did, know that you can never use "Rain Dance" or similar product on the covers down the road, EG when you get the car washed. Just dry them off.
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Was walking my dog past a person in the neighborhood who was just getting out of a 2023 Accord Hybrid. I have not seen one before and I asked if I could take it a look. This friendly guy could work for a Honda dealership, because he was so informative about it. It gets 51 in the city and 44 overall (even with his 2.0 engine). Most of my 2010 Accord driving is city, and so that's potentially almost 30 miles more per gallon than I'm getting.

I was so envious. He said he spent $37,000. I think I could get $9,000 for my Accord, so $28k more for something like that. A bit out of my price range, but I know there are lower trims that are still hybrids.
How much driving do you do anyway?

You will have to factor in car depreciation and opportunity cost (4-5% per annum).

I just realized (after fixing the rattle on the driver side mirror by inserting a thick enough plastic between the mirror body and the extension) that my facking CT200h has a rattling/vibration around the intermediate shaft below the steering column lol. You'll never guess how I tried to reduce the vibration lol. Not putting in more money with no signs of steering issues or failure.

My Accord has no rattle whatsoever (at around 100k miles) thought this CT (now around 150k miles) from a friend had been in several minor collisions. I prefer driving the CT for fuel savings though, about 60-80% more fuel efficient below 70 mph and mostly highway driving. No way around displacement. CT is 1.8L Atkinson vs 2.4L Ottoman for the Accord.
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