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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i purchased new speakers for my 2013 accord, they sound like crap, just not enough db as stock.

Someone mentioned they were 2 ohm speakers. Is this correct. I would rather return speakers and try 2 ohm speakers so i dont have to purchase line out converter and additional amp since im not looking to get max volume out, but a better quality sounding.

So getting 6 channel line out converter and 4 channel amp is around $300.

I would rather spend a little extra for the 2 ohm speakers if they are more compatiable with stock head unit.


Are stock speakers 2 ohm or not?

Thank you
 

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I'm thinking they are probably 4 ohm. Most amps are published at 4 and are stable at 2.


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I don't even know where to start

Did you not pull the stock speakers? It should same their ohm load on the back or somewhere on it. You're going at this in a weird way though. You're not going to get much volume on this amp unless you have some VERY sensitive speakers.

You can pick up an amp to take your high level without needing an LOC. Tap into the rears if they're full range and you're set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i replaced the rear speakers and fronts were still stock and the rears put out about half the db as the front. The highers were better but the bass was horrible (nothing) and i had to turn up the volume near and above 30 to hear the same level i did out of the stocks at 20 (on the volume control #). So i put stock speakers back in to research why i had such a big difference.

I was hoping to replace interior speakers and run them off the head unit and add a LOC for a small amp/sub.

The higher freq of the stock speakers **** and therefore why i would like to replace them.

It seems a simple speaker replacement and add sub/amp is not a simple task. It seems if i want to replace the interior speakers i need to add and amp too and a LOC big enough for 5 channels

So does Accord Sports have a factory amp? WOuld 2 ohm speakers give me a better db output with stock head unit?

Im a little confused as many people have swapped out interior speakers and never mentioned amps or LOC
 

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Stock rear speakers in the sports are 4ohms. I have tested mine with a multimeter.

I experienced the same thing when in went to replace the stock speakers with some Polk components. I can to the conclusion that the stock head unit does not push enough power to run the aftermarket speakers.

If I can figure out how to measure rms with a millimeter I will test it out.
 

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Stock rear speakers in the sports are 4ohms. I have tested mine with a multimeter.

I experienced the same thing when in went to replace the stock speakers with some Polk components. I can to the conclusion that the stock head unit does not push enough power to run the aftermarket speakers.

If I can figure out how to measure rms with a millimeter I will test it out.
Crank up the volume to max, measure your current. Multiply it by 12v, than multiply by 0.707. Should be close to the RMS wattage.
 

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i replaced the rear speakers and fronts were still stock and the rears put out about half the db as the front. The highers were better but the bass was horrible (nothing) and i had to turn up the volume near and above 30 to hear the same level i did out of the stocks at 20 (on the volume control #). So i put stock speakers back in to research why i had such a big difference.

Most likely because the rear speakers are crossed over and not full-range. You can run into a multitude of problems with speakers firing up into the rear glass. Cancellations, more rattles, etc...something Honda most likely knows and wants to avoid. What were the speakers you replaced the stocks with? I would venture to say they were quite a bit LESS sensitive than the stock speakers.


I was hoping to replace interior speakers and run them off the head unit and add a LOC for a small amp/sub.

The higher freq of the stock speakers **** and therefore why i would like to replace them.

The high frequencies of the stock speakers **** because they're cheap and likely measure horribly on and off-axis. There are certain things you need to look at when replacing speakers and it depends on the location where you're putting them too. If I can give one piece of advice, it would be to ditch the rears and put your money into the fronts.

It seems a simple speaker replacement and add sub/amp is not a simple task. It seems if i want to replace the interior speakers i need to add and amp too and a LOC big enough for 5 channels

A front speaker setup, amp and sub should be relatively easy. Tap into the FL and FR wires BEFORE the factory amp, run that into your amp and wallah...you're done. You'll loose the rears, but again...that's just my advice. If you can, find an amp that can take the input voltage without needing an LOC (not sure what the voltage is BEFORE or AFTER the factory amp...I'd LOOOOVE if someone knew).

So does Accord Sports have a factory amp? WOuld 2 ohm speakers give me a better db output with stock head unit?

Not sure. I'd assume so. If you find out, please let me know. My car is too new to start pulling panels lol.

Going down to a 2ohm from 4ohm (thanks GTP for letting us know the stockies are 4) will gain volume, but I HIGHLY doubt the factory amp is 2ohm stable.


Im a little confused as many people have swapped out interior speakers and never mentioned amps or LOC
If you can, you don't want to use an LOC, but if you have to..it's for an amp and to gain some voltage (on some particular 'loc's')

You can swap the speakers without changing anything else, but factory speakers are usually very high sensitivity speakers so they can use a small amp. I might be able to find something that would work well in our cars if I get some free time. If I could find a high sensitivity 6.5" with good off axis response and shallow enough to not make modifications, I'm sure people would like that. I'll see what I can do


Stock rear speakers in the sports are 4ohms. I have tested mine with a multimeter.

I experienced the same thing when in went to replace the stock speakers with some Polk components. I can to the conclusion that the stock head unit does not push enough power to run the aftermarket speakers.

If I can figure out how to measure rms with a millimeter I will test it out.
Thanks for that. Have you taken a look at the fronts? I would assume they're also 4ohm, but just checking.

Again, you replaced the factory speaker (high sensitivity) with another speaker with low sensitivity. That alone will cause a loss in dB's/volume/SPL.

What people also don't understand is that just because an amp is rated for say...50rms, doesn't mean you're using it 100% of the time. Hell, not even 50% of time most likely. Dynamic peaks in music when listening at a decent volume, sure, but most of the time you're using minimal power.
 

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I have not taken the door panels off yet to check. I bought the same speakers for the front and the rear. Polk dB 651s. I figured the power was split evenly to all 4 speakers.

I have the sport model. It is a four speaker system with no amp. I think you have to upgrade to the exl model to get the amp and 7 speakers.
 

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Oh dang. So we have no amp? That's actually good news! lol. Extremely easy to tap what's likely a full range signal on the rear speakers for anything, which means very short input wire runs (besides power/remote).
 

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Oh dang. So we have no amp? That's actually good news! lol. Extremely easy to tap what's likely a full range signal on the rear speakers for anything, which means very short input wire runs (besides power/remote).
Only disadvantage to using just the rear speaker signals to drive all 4 speakers is you lose your Fade ability.


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Only disadvantage to using just the rear speaker signals to drive all 4 speakers is you lose your Fade ability.


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I also understand that if you do not use the front channels from thread unit and just leave the wires hanging and not connected you loose the hands free calling. So you need the from 2channels from the head unit to be active.

I read this in another thread. If I can find it again I will have to post the link.

I guess we could test this by fading the speakers to the rear and make a phone call
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well the six channel loc will run of all for factory speaker writes. The subs will run off the rear speaker lines. So rear speaker lines will run the rear interior speakers and send the signal to the sub amp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well i hate to sound stupid but i ordered the harness adapter that connects the factory connection to the speaker and i have to admit that the speaker sounds a hell a lot better using the adapter. Before i used male/female quick disconnectors. I dont understand how that would make a difference but....

Tomorrow i will replace all speakers and prep for the LOC to arrive. I got 2 pair of 22 gauge wire from work and will run new cable from speaker to trunk. I will just connect the two pairs in the rear to have the new speakers run off the stock radio and then split that off so one pair goes to the LOC and the other pair will connect to the speaker from the amp. One run with four cables.

I need to find speaker adapter plates now the new speakers wont fit properly into the existing speaker holes.
 
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