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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I just have joined this forum to find out this bothering and annoying problem on my accord.
She is 04 LX V6 (178,000 miles) and still running smoothly without any major problem.
Last time I was doing a brake job, I found this really little bit leak from passenger side rear engine area. I checked engine oil gauge but it never ever going down, no dripping on the floor (just little oil hang on drain bolt) so I did not worry that much....until I found this burning smell after I drove around. It is so weird that burning smell did not come inside when I drive or stop at the light, but somehow when I put park gear and leave car engine on, the smell is coming inside pretty a lot. I did not see any smoke from a hood, I've done power steering recall, and Vtec Solenoid gasket to remove this bad smell from my car.
I search this forum to find out what cause this tiny leak from.. I don't know where exactly at this moment, but I really don't wish this leak from rear main seal.
Anyway, long story to short, do you guys have any idea of this leakage?
 

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New brakes will give of a burning smell and even smoke when you're bedding them, but it should go away quickly. You say you did the vtec gasket, so that should be good. I'd check to see if oil is leaking onto the hot manifold somewhere. Have you checked the valve cover gasket?
 

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That is the oil pump leaking oil. There is a gasket in there for an oil channel that becomes flat over the years. Mine has been leaking for 3 years, just not serious so I haven't attended to it.

You need to remove all timing components plus the oil pan in order to remove the oil pump to reseal that. It's a rather involving job.

I just noticed your picture is turned counterclockwise by 90 degree, it should look like what I've attached here.

Attached with big red arrow shows the gasket that needs to be replaced, again, it's a very involving job... hours. You need to reseal the oil pan also with hondabond.
 

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If you are going in that deep on the front of the engine, you might as well do the timing belt and water pump.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
 

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^

Yep, you basically do this at the next timing belt job because all that needs to be removed in order to remove the oil pump.
Do you think high mileage oil can help in this case?
 

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Wouldn't hurt ^^

AT 205 reseal wouldn't hurt either.
 

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I can't say if high mileage oil helps, but you can try and let us know. I periodically spray that area off with brake clean and monitor how fast oil mist/stain returns, it is not a huge amount of oil and the level on my oil stick does not change so I am not so concerned.

Another possibility of that mess down there is the hydraulic auto tensioner in the path of the timing belt leaking hydraulic fluid down the side onto the side of the oil pan. This was part of what I was seeing before I changed the timing belt 1.5 years ago. That hydraulic fluid caused a huge stain which looked like the oil pan leaking when it wasn't. I didn't see this problem until I removed the tensioner, there was a pool of fluid by the plunger of the hydraulic tensioner. You can only see this when you take apart the crank pulley plus all timing belt covers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can't say if high mileage oil helps, but you can try and let us know. I periodically spray that area off with brake clean and monitor how fast oil mist/stain returns, it is not a huge amount of oil and the level on my oil stick does not change so I am not so concerned.

Another possibility of that mess down there is the hydraulic auto tensioner in the path of the timing belt leaking hydraulic fluid down the side onto the side of the oil pan. This was part of what I was seeing before I changed the timing belt 1.5 years ago. That hydraulic fluid caused a huge stain which looked like the oil pan leaking when it wasn't. I didn't see this problem until I removed the tensioner, there was a pool of fluid by the plunger of the hydraulic tensioner. You can only see this when you take apart the crank pulley plus all timing belt covers.
Thanks for the reply. you and everyone help me so much to find out the cause. Looks like it would be really hard diy job to replace that gasket. do you think using engine oil leak stop for temporary is okay? the burning smell came inside really bad whenever i let my car idling.
 

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Thanks for the reply. you and everyone help me so much to find out the cause. Looks like it would be really hard diy job to replace that gasket. do you think using engine oil leak stop for temporary is okay? the burning smell came inside really bad whenever i let my car idling.
Did you get the smell before the brake job as well? Like someone else said above, new brakes can be a little smelly. Maybe wait a little bit to see if it goes away.
 

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Doesn't seem like an oil leak in that area would create a burning oil smell. That would likely be something above the exhaust, like valve cover gasket. I would use a mirror to look at the back side of the engine, at the rear valve cover. The front valve cover is easy to see. In the mean time, I would keep checking the oil level, to make sure you aren't losing a lot of oil. Good luck
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Doesn't seem like an oil leak in that area would create a burning oil smell. That would likely be something above the exhaust, like valve cover gasket. I would use a mirror to look at the back side of the engine, at the rear valve cover. The front valve cover is easy to see. In the mean time, I would keep checking the oil level, to make sure you aren't losing a lot of oil. Good luck
Oil level is not changing because of this but the smell bother me so much. Where should I exactly check for rear valve cover? is it deep inside of the rear engine? would be really thankful if there is pic for reference.. yeah my car is v6.
 

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Not sure if OP decided to fix this or not.

I am experiencing similar situation, however it's not clear if it could be from the VTEC spool valve gasket or the oil pump gasket.

As indicated in the other thread, I cleaned the main area of the oil pan last night where the biggest oily grime was, no leak overnight, however leak (as expected) was visible again after a long drive today.

However at least I can tell nothing was coming from the crank shaft pulley and seal area on the passenger side behind the crank pulley, the leak (as seen in attached images) I did observe was from the area facing aft I did not clean last night, so I will do that now, still debating if I should just install the VTEC spool valve gaskets I bought today to eliminate that as a possibility.

It looks like the upper hex insert set-"screw" is dry, the lower set-screw is a bit wet, however the hex-head bolt to the lower left of the image is quite wet, I am thinking of cleaning and removing the bolt then re-tighten to see if it helps. Although the inboard CV joint is in the way if the bolt is too long, I also can't tell if this bolt is just a plug for draining, or if it attaches to something inside the oil pump, the factory V6 service manual is unclear in this respect.
 

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Decided to go ahead and change the VTEC spool valve, solenoid and oil pressure switch gaskets, I think there is some evidence of leakage from the main gasket based on oily grime which would be difficult to traverse from elsewhere to where the gasket is, as evident in the pix.

Interestingly too was the gasket was stuck on the oil pump side vs. the spool valve that I see in all pix on the web, the rubber has definitely hardened and flattened over the years.

Started the car afterwards and ran it for 5 minutes, no signs of leak at the moment, will see if this fixes the issue, or not.

High mileage oil would be next if the leak continues, it would be difficult to justify the cost of the labour involved if it's the oil pump gasket that is leaking......
 

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I have that same gasket kit from Victor Reinz, I put away the other o-rings/gaskets. My rear oil pump area looked just like that, before I changed out the VTEC solenoid gasket. You'd be surprised how much a drop of oil makes a mist that sprays everywhere.
 

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For my future reference, is it just the three bolts you removed, where the oil filter mount is part of the same assembly there? Am I seeing that correctly in your parts diagram? (Without being able to look at the car at the moment) How difficult was the access??
 

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You just remove those 3 bolts yes, but they are of different lengths so make notes of that.

You are supposed to disconnect the oil pressure switch up top also to get the whole assembly but I did not want to risk breaking the plastic clip so I used a bungee cord to hold up the assembly while I cleaned off the surface then installed the new gasket onto the solenoid side. Another note is that, you do not need to drain oil out of the engine to do this, however, you should remove the filter and drain the oil out of the filter, then remove the assembly, or it just makes a big mess with oil coming out of the solenoid.
 

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For my future reference, is it just the three bolts you removed, where the oil filter mount is part of the same assembly there? Am I seeing that correctly in your parts diagram? (Without being able to look at the car at the moment) How difficult was the access??
Yes, 3 bolts, the upper front one is noticeably longer, the other two are the same length. I would suggest partially removing the splash shield out of the way for better visual and physical access.

I left the oil filter on the "VTEC solenoid valve assembly" to avoid more oil coming out, first disconnect the connectors for the solenoid and pressure switch, then unbolt the 3 bolts, the assembly will come off easily, there is a bit of oil flowing out but not that much, I have my oil drain pan underneath, there's maybe half of coffee mug of oil drained out.

The pressure switch connector is fairly easy to disconnect, I used a pair of long needle nose plier to compress the locking tab at the back of the mating connector on the harness side then pull gently towards the harness to disconnect.

The solenoid connector is a PITA to disconnect, watch from 2:45 onwards of this clip
for what this connector looks like and how to disconnect, this is the same type of connection on one of the oxygen sensor I replaced in the summer, but unlike the Odyssey in this video clip, it's very hard to tell in the Accord since the connector is quite well hidden from view and access, if you have a bulky fore arm, you may not get your hand in there!!

From above, you first release the connector towards the firewall by firmly squeezing the locking tab and gently pull away, I could not get a pair of plier in there nor could I see clearly even if I could get the plier in there since it's the connector is pretty much out of sight, so I have to do by feel alone, I then went underneath the car to squeeze the locking tab of the connector for the solenoid to release it from the metal tab of the supporting bracket.

The rest is pretty straightforward, just take your time and methodically ensure mating surfaces are clean, I used a single edge razor blade to scrape off the caked-on residue then blasted the surfaces with brake cleaner before putting the gasket in and VTEC solenoid valve assembly back on the car. Torque the 3 bolts to 16 ft-lb using a 3/8" drive torque wrench then you should be done.
 
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