Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently purchased aftermarket 6.5 speakers (Kicker 40CS654) to replace the cheap factory speakers, and plan on adding an aftermarket amp. I have a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L Sedan CVT and want to know whether I should tap into the speaker signal before the factory or after the factory amp? If before, would it be easier to tap into them near their respective location (do not want to run new wiring through front door speakers) or all of them where they connect right before the factory amp (this would require me to know which wires leading to the factory amp are for the speakers)? I intend on replacing the subwoofer later, as the amp I'm going to purchase is a Pioneer GM-D9605.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
487 Posts
You are going to want to get the signal before the factory amp. The factory amp has EQ settings so if you take it after you are only going to be amplifying the factory sound, which I guess is what you are wanting to improve.

If you do not want to run new speaker wire, you will have to tap into the factory wire after the amp. There are several wire diagrams on driveaccord.net. I could not find a plug to plug into the stock speaker harness so I ran new wires. Since you have the door cards off to put speakers in, it really is easy to push new wires through. Although I did not want to either, I did anyway since I wanted to cut the factory harness even less. It really only took a few minutes each side.

Hope that helps. Let us know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@f1snob
My current plan is to run the signal before the amp and since I do not want to run new wire, I will connect the amped signal from the aftermarket amp to after the factory amp. Essentially keeping all the factory amp wires the same and rerouting all speaker signal wires to the new amp.
Would the only benefit of running new speaker wires be for getting better guage wire?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
If your car has the touchscreen radio you'll want to make sure the amp can accept balanced differential inputs if you tap the signal before the amp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@ominae So to my understanding, I could potentially get a lot more noise, damage to amp, and or it won't work. But what if i tap after the factory amp, meaning the speaker signal goes through both factory amp and aftermarket, will i still need an amp with balanced differential input?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
704 Posts
@ominae So to my understanding, I could potentially get a lot more noise, damage to amp, and or it won't work. But what if i tap after the factory amp, meaning the speaker signal goes through both factory amp and aftermarket, will i still need an amp with balanced differential input?
Tap the signal before the factory amp and convert the leads to RCA jacks. Then, buy an JL Audio 900/5 and run it for your cabin speakers. The reason why I suggested the 900/5 is that you'll want a sub after. When you're ready to add a sub, all you'll need is to simply connect the box to the amp and enable the sub channel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
@ominae So to my understanding, I could potentially get a lot more noise, damage to amp, and or it won't work. But what if i tap after the factory amp, meaning the speaker signal goes through both factory amp and aftermarket, will i still need an amp with balanced differential input?
Regular outputs are a signal and a ground, so if you're looking at a RCA the center conductor would be wired to your signal/positive and the shield would be wired to ground/negative. Balanced differential carries signal on both wires. It's not a big issue so long as you buy the right equipment. I don't see where the Pioneer amp accepts balanced inputs, but I know most newer JL Audio and Alpine amps do, and I think Kicker has a 5 channel that will and is a little cheaper. There are probable more, those are just the ones I'm familiar with.

And any amp that takes speaker level inputs should work if you choose to get the signal from the factory amp, but adding another component is just another chance to induct noise into the system. Tapping signal after the HU/before the amp is preferable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
I tapped the speaker wires and also the line-out lines at the harness that I disconnected from the factory amp. See my postings of the upgrades I did the last 3 weeks. Came out pretty good. The signals coming out of head-unit are high level and I placed my amp in trunk. Reused existing speaker wires for only fronts and dropped new wires for rears down to amp. Many panels to remove but was fun process. Also added sound deadening NVX/Soundskins materials. There are 2 harnesses plugged into factory amp (18 pin + 24 pin). I believe one of those harnesses (maybe 18 pin) did not have the same colors/pinouts as was listed here by another member probably because it was referenced off of a Sport harness. All I did to figure out that problem was to find the proper speaker wire pairs and make the cuts there.

The most challenging part was fishing my 4awg power wire through the hole in the firewall up and over wheelwell and into engine compartment to battery. I basically had to wedge my hand inside while pulling away wheel well cover. It was a painful and dirty process but I was determined to make it work and was successful.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top