Hi folks, I didn't see any other write-ups or discussion specifically about Whiteline Endlinks, so here it is. I installed the front set with my coilovers last weekend (no modification required), & today I installed the rear set (I needed to drill out the mounting holes on the Progress sway bar and rear hub).
I personally feel it made a difference; cornering seems smoother as the body rolls outward and then returns to center.
You can feel the difference in your hand: manipulate the OEM endlink ball joint and it requires significant force to move, and then when it does, it's sudden and jerky. The Whiteline ball joints require less force to move, and do so smoothly and predictably.
Installation in the front is straightforward; jack the car up and remove the front tires. There's no load on the endlinks, so it's safe & easy to unbolt and remove them. Use an open or go-thu socket & hex key; a regular socket or wrench will just cause the ball joint to spin when you apply torque.
Unscrew both locking nuts on the main shaft of the Whiteline endlinks, and adjust them until about 6-7 threads are exposed on each side. Install the new endlinks on the strut & sway bar, and leave the locking nuts loose for now.
Reinstall the wheels & lower the car back down, making sure you're parked on a flat, even surface. Reach underneath with an open-ended wrench, turn the endlink main shaft on both sides until you have just a touch of tension. Some professionals preload their body weight on the driver's seat before making the adjustment, I personally think that it's overkill for street use. Finally, tighten the locking nuts on the top and bottom of the main shaft. You can turn the wheels at this point to get better leverage. You'll need one wrench holding the shaft in place while tightening the lock nuts.
The rear endlinks are a bit more difficult to install, as they will require drilling out the mounting holes 2mm larger. Use a quality metal drill bit as the steel on the sway bar is quite hard. Also, notch the included washers (I used a dremel) because the washers contact the the raised bar where it's welded to the mounting bracket. After notching the washers, they will sit flush against the surface of the sway bar mounting bracket and the nut can be torqued down properly (see last image).
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I personally feel it made a difference; cornering seems smoother as the body rolls outward and then returns to center.
You can feel the difference in your hand: manipulate the OEM endlink ball joint and it requires significant force to move, and then when it does, it's sudden and jerky. The Whiteline ball joints require less force to move, and do so smoothly and predictably.
Installation in the front is straightforward; jack the car up and remove the front tires. There's no load on the endlinks, so it's safe & easy to unbolt and remove them. Use an open or go-thu socket & hex key; a regular socket or wrench will just cause the ball joint to spin when you apply torque.
Unscrew both locking nuts on the main shaft of the Whiteline endlinks, and adjust them until about 6-7 threads are exposed on each side. Install the new endlinks on the strut & sway bar, and leave the locking nuts loose for now.
Reinstall the wheels & lower the car back down, making sure you're parked on a flat, even surface. Reach underneath with an open-ended wrench, turn the endlink main shaft on both sides until you have just a touch of tension. Some professionals preload their body weight on the driver's seat before making the adjustment, I personally think that it's overkill for street use. Finally, tighten the locking nuts on the top and bottom of the main shaft. You can turn the wheels at this point to get better leverage. You'll need one wrench holding the shaft in place while tightening the lock nuts.
The rear endlinks are a bit more difficult to install, as they will require drilling out the mounting holes 2mm larger. Use a quality metal drill bit as the steel on the sway bar is quite hard. Also, notch the included washers (I used a dremel) because the washers contact the the raised bar where it's welded to the mounting bracket. After notching the washers, they will sit flush against the surface of the sway bar mounting bracket and the nut can be torqued down properly (see last image).
