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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yeah Yeah I know, but please keep "why would you do that" "you don't need to" comments to yourself.

I have a group 24 battery that is brand new, (Walmart EverStart 24F) if it makes a difference, that I was supposed to be put in my other car, but I sold it before I had the chance.

We all know the Honda oem battery is pretty puny and I do experience the lights dimming relatively often, and it is pretty cold up here.

I was wondering if I could just drop this battery in without too much effort. Maybe just a new battery tie down.

Any input ?
 

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Can you not just do some dimension measurement comparison and where the terminal posts are since you have access to both the car with the OEM battery and the Group 24 battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can you not just do some dimension measurement comparison and where the terminal posts are since you have access to both the car with the OEM battery and the Group 24 battery?
I was going to do that, but its been snowing all day today. Maybe once it gets warmer.

What I'm more worried about is there any potential harm to the wiring because of the larger battery?
 

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If your car is still under warranty (guessing so since this is in the 9th gen section) I would advise it.
If anything surfaces with the electrical system and the dealer wants to be a pain they can say "yep, it's that aftermarket battery you put in there, this is gonna cost ya'
 

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http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1663394&postcount=22

Battery Group Sizes

51R
Length Width Height
9 3/8 5 1/16 8 13/16

35
Length Width Height
9 1/16 6 7/8 8 7/8

24F
Length Width Height
10 3/4 6 13/16 9


You can order the following part numbers and put a Group 24F battery in a 4 CYL

Hold down plate 31512-T2G-A00 $4.54
Bolt (203mm) 31513-SDB-000 $2.47
Bolt (235mm) 31513-T2A-A00 $3.29
Battery Box 31521-T2G-A00 $18.94
Battery Cover 31531-T2G-A00 $9.37

Or if you want to put a group 35 in a 4 Cyl just get the hold down plate from the V6 and discard the existing Plastic box as the group 35 is about the same height as the 51R and the same width as the 24F.
 

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It will not hurt the car. 12 volts is 12 volts. You have to liken a car battery to a garden hose. If the handle at the house is open all the way that equals 12 volts. As you open the nozzle on the end of the hose that equates to amps being used but the pressure from the house stays the same. Thus a battery with a CCA rating of 550 has the same voltage as one with 700CCA's. The bigger battery has more flow going thru it but the voltage from the house stays the same. If you add more hoses on the voltage stays the same but the flow decreases which is why some yachts have 32 volt systems and 48 volt systems. Car manufacterurers are looking into raising voltage requirements because of all the electronics going into cars. This is why cars in the early fifties had six volt systems and it was raised to 12 volts. Back in the fifties the wipers worked off vacuum not electric for example
 

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If your car is still under warranty (guessing so since this is in the 9th gen section) I would advise it.
If anything surfaces with the electrical system and the dealer wants to be a pain they can say "yep, it's that aftermarket battery you put in there, this is gonna cost ya'
Thats just silly. No mfg would deny a warranty request because of a battery cahnge.

@OP if it fits and the terminals arent backwards then go for it. With the 8G you just needed to modify the hold down bracket and eemove the inner battery tray to make a 24F fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome, thanks for the info!

namegoeshere, I did search (as I usually do), didn't see that. Thanks for not being a jerk though and posting that link.
 

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Thats just silly. No mfg would deny a warranty request because of a battery cahnge.

@OP if it fits and the terminals arent backwards then go for it.
Says the guy who hasn't written service before. I wrote service for Honda and GM for 12 yrs and I can promise you if a dealer wants to be a stickler and follow the factory letter of the law...... they can deny warranty for some silly stuff.
I'm just sharing my experience. Nothing more, nothing less.
 

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My dealer strongly suggest putting a V6 battery in the Accord 4 since it is too small for all that electronic in the car. He said they regularly change batteries on the 4, after only 2 years of usage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My dealer strongly suggest putting a V6 battery in the Accord 4 since it is too small for all that electronic in the car. He said they regularly change batteries on the 4, after only 2 years of usage.
Maybe because it's way colder up in Canada, which tires out those batteries much quicker than in the states???

I'll ask my dealer and see if they say the same thing. I plan on putting the battery in there as soon as possible.
 

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Maybe because it's way colder up in Canada, which tires out those batteries much quicker than in the states???
This is indeed very likely, but that tells a story on the quality of the 4 battery ;) or at least its capacity to handle the demand of recent Accords.
 

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The difference between the sizes is the larger size will have larger plates and more amps. That should help in only few situations, cold cranking, more reserve capacity (whenever the alternator is not charging). The alternator is the main source of power while the engine is running, the battery is just a storage device for when load exceeds the alternators output. At idle the alternator is putting out maybe 20 to 30 amps of power, so the extra power needed by the car comes from the battery, the reserve tank for the electrical system. So the bigger battery is needed in the V6 for starting.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This is indeed very likely, but that tells a story on the quality of the 4 battery ;) or at least its capacity to handle the demand of recent Accords.
I guess. The quality doesn't appear to be all bad, its probably made by Johnson Controls, the only thing that it lacks is CCA. 2 years is plenty long in the frozen north IMO

The difference between the sizes is the larger size will have larger plates and more amps. That should help in only few situations, cold cranking, more reserve capacity (whenever the alternator is not charging). The alternator is the main source of power while the engine is running, the battery is just a storage device for when load exceeds the alternators output. At idle the alternator is putting out maybe 20 to 30 amps of power, so the extra power needed by the car comes from the battery, the reserve tank for the electrical system. So the bigger battery is needed in the V6 for starting.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
While this is true, it has nothing to do with my OP, thank you for your input it might help somebody out. Its been a known fact that engines with higher CC's receive a bigger battery (v6) compared to their 4 cylinder counterparts.
 

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It will not hurt the car. 12 volts is 12 volts. You have to liken a car battery to a garden hose. If the handle at the house is open all the way that equals 12 volts. As you open the nozzle on the end of the hose that equates to amps being used but the pressure from the house stays the same. Thus a battery with a CCA rating of 550 has the same voltage as one with 700CCA's. The bigger battery has more flow going thru it but the voltage from the house stays the same. If you add more hoses on the voltage stays the same but the flow decreases which is why some yachts have 32 volt systems and 48 volt systems. Car manufacterurers are looking into raising voltage requirements because of all the electronics going into cars. This is why cars in the early fifties had six volt systems and it was raised to 12 volts. Back in the fifties the wipers worked off vacuum not electric for example
Back in the late 80s/early 90s, Chrysler vehicles didn't have enough vacuum power to change climate settings while going uphill lol

My dealer strongly suggest putting a V6 battery in the Accord 4 since it is too small for all that electronic in the car. He said they regularly change batteries on the 4, after only 2 years of usage.
This is possible, see below.

Maybe because it's way colder up in Canada, which tires out those batteries much quicker than in the states???

I'll ask my dealer and see if they say the same thing. I plan on putting the battery in there as soon as possible.
My TSX's battery wore out in 1.5 years, one of the cells in it died. I don't drive my car daily, I was told this is why it wore out quickly. There was no snowfall last year in MD and the temp didn't drop below 20 btw.

This is indeed very likely, but that tells a story on the quality of the 4 battery ;) or at least its capacity to handle the demand of recent Accords.
Will a Group 24 battery keep my headlamps from dimming when I'm parking and turning the wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Back in the late 80s/early 90s, Chrysler vehicles didn't have enough vacuum power to change climate settings while going uphill lol

LOL


This is possible, see below.
My TSX's battery wore out in 1.5 years, one of the cells in it died. I don't drive my car daily, I was told this is why it wore out quickly. There was no snowfall last year in MD and the temp didn't drop below 20 btw.

My old maxima was the same way. Once it got colder and stopped DD'ing it, the battery would be flat within 2 weeks. Not really sure why, but the guy at advanced said the cell was shot aswell.



Will a Group 24 battery keep my headlamps from dimming when I'm parking and turning the wheel?
It should in theory. Somebody over here swapped in a group 35 interstate battery with much higher amperage and stated that his car started up way faster and the headlight dimming was no longer evident
 

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I put a 24F Interstate Megatron Plus with 800CCA in my 2009. Instead of sounding anemic, my Accord sounds healthy and starts with ease. Definitely recommend the upgrade.

Glen_e put a 24F in his 2013 without any issues.

Will not hurt anything and highly recommended IMO.
 
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