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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched around the forums for a while and I havent found any post about how to wire up or made their own harness on the V6 led DRL for the I4 models without using HTG overpriced harness.

Does anyone know or successfully wired up the V6 LED headlights to the I4 model themselves?? I will attempt to mess around with the headlights today but would like to see if anyone else has done this and would like to share some info.
 

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why don't you stay 12V all the time?
 

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if you figure it out can you do a detailed diy? i wanted to buy the headlights last week but since valentines day i had to wait. and i also am trying to stay away from HTG harness
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
so.. my conclusion from todays testing.. it needs a relay.. i tried to use add-a-fuse on the DRL slot but that doesnt work because the lights stay on at full brightness. my assumption was that the DRL will power off when headlights are on, but thats wrong.. there is still a constant 12v going through the circuits. so the only way it will work is if there is a switch or a power source where it wont receive ANY power at all when headlights/parking lights are on.
 

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I returned my Touring headlights because the DRLs were different colors and didn't match so I'm going to stick with my retrofitted lights. But this is how I was planning to wire my DRLs. Here's a pic of a little sketch I made when I was planning it. Maybe it will help you.

Run a + wire from your original strip light to the "dim" pin on the drls. This will give you the dim drl whenever your parking or headlights are on. You probably had that figured out already. This takes care of the dim setting.

For the "bright" setting, I was going to use a 5 pin relay wired like this. This will give the "bright" pin 12V whenever the ignition is turned on, but it will turn off the power whenever the strip light is on (when the "dim" power takes over).



Now to get the ignition switched power, I was going to use another relay. You can add an "add a fuse" to the #4 fuse in your interior fusebox (it was an empty slot on mine). It's the only "switched" slot I was able to find. Run a small wire from the add a fuse into the engine compartment. You can just use a 4 pin relay for this.

Pin 85 to Ground
Pin 86 to your small switched wire from fuse box
Pin 30 to positive battery terminal
Pin 87 to 87a on other relay

I never got the chance to make this harness and test it. I didn't know anything about wiring this kind of stuff until learning/teaching myself over the past few months so I'm not an expert but I was pretty confident this would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I returned my Touring headlights because the DRLs were different colors and didn't match so I'm going to stick with my retrofitted lights. But this is how I was planning to wire my DRLs. Here's a pic of a little sketch I made when I was planning it. Maybe it will help you.

Run a + wire from your original strip light to the "dim" pin on the drls. This will give you the dim drl whenever your parking or headlights are on. You probably had that figured out already. This takes care of the dim setting.

For the "bright" setting, I was going to use a 5 pin relay wired like this. This will give the "bright" pin 12V whenever the ignition is turned on, but it will turn off the power whenever the strip light is on (when the "dim" power takes over).



Now to get the ignition switched power, I was going to use another relay. You can add an "add a fuse" to the #4 fuse in your interior fusebox (it was an empty slot on mine). It's the only "switched" slot I was able to find. Run a small wire from the add a fuse into the engine compartment. You can just use a 4 pin relay for this.

Pin 85 to Ground
Pin 86 to your small switched wire from fuse box
Pin 30 to positive battery terminal
Pin 87 to 87a on other relay

I never got the chance to make this harness and test it. I didn't know anything about wiring this kind of stuff until learning/teaching myself over the past few months so I'm not an expert but I was pretty confident this would work.
interesting.. but what did you mean by using a 4-pin relay on the switch fuse?

edit-nvm i see what you mean now.
 

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interesting.. but what did you mean by using a 4-pin relay on the switch fuse?
The drls pull more power than I'd feel comfortable powering from inside the car. So the relay is basically just to play it safe and get power directly from the battery. You could also just run your switched power directly from the fuse box to your 5 pin relay and get rid of the other relay altogether.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The drls pull more power than I'd feel comfortable powering from inside the car. So the relay is basically just to play it safe and get power directly from the battery. You could also just run your switched power directly from the fuse box to your 5 pin relay and get rid of the other relay altogether.
very well put..
take a look at this gearhead
http://hardtopguy.com/store/image.php?type=P&id=1115
http://www.mediafire.com/download/3yjq21dhn110ks8/2013_Accord_LED_Headlamp_Mod_DIY.pdf

these are the info i got from a blog about HTG harness, and those are the diagrams to HTG's harness. i took a look at it and i got lost after awhile lol. but you might be able to decipher this better than i can.

first link is a diagram of HTG's harness.
2nd link is a adobe file for the wiring.

from those info, does it seem like it operates the same way you have your relay set up?
 

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very well put..
take a look at this gearhead
http://hardtopguy.com/store/image.php?type=P&id=1115
http://www.mediafire.com/download/3yjq21dhn110ks8/2013_Accord_LED_Headlamp_Mod_DIY.pdf

these are the info i got from a blog about HTG harness, and those are the diagrams to HTG's harness. i took a look at it and i got lost after awhile lol. but you might be able to decipher this better than i can.

first link is a diagram of HTG's harness.
2nd link is a adobe file for the wiring.

from those info, does it seem like it operates the same way you have your relay set up?
I actually have the HTG harness (will probably sell them soon) and I understand how they work. Mine would work differently. The main difference is that HTG uses the factory drl power source for the "bright" setting where mine would use a completely separate source to power them. The problem with how HTG does it is that you'll have some weird side effects like not being able to flash your high beams unless your low beams are on. Also since HTG uses the reduced current of the original drl, the "bright" setting is NOT the full brightness that you get with running a separate 12v source. Those LEDs are at least 25% brighter running on a separate 12v source compared to how HTG powers them on stock drl power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
interesting.. i might be giving your way a try next weekend.. my 2nd headlight didnt come in on time for this weekend.
 

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I actually have the HTG harness (will probably sell them soon) and I understand how they work. Mine would work differently. The main difference is that HTG uses the factory drl power source for the "bright" setting where mine would use a completely separate source to power them. The problem with how HTG does it is that you'll have some weird side effects like not being able to flash your high beams unless your low beams are on. Also since HTG uses the reduced current of the original drl, the "bright" setting is NOT the full brightness that you get with running a separate 12v source. Those LEDs are at least 25% brighter running on a separate 12v source compared to how HTG powers them on stock drl power.
So you are saying that there is reduced current (amperage) coming from stock DRL power source? Have you measured the stock voltage and amps that is provided for the stock LED DRL? I also have the HTG harness installed. I didn't know about the lack of high beam flashing.

I just went out and tested this, what happens is the DRL actually get brighter when you flash the high beams. I assume the brightness that LEDs become when being 'flashed' are how they SHOULD look at all times. Can anyone with stock LED DRL confirm that their LED's don't get brighter when they flash their high beams without any lights on (i assume they don't).

Has anyone contact HTG about this obvious deficiency?
 

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So you are saying that there is reduced current (amperage) coming from stock DRL power source?
Yes when you flash the "high beam" and the drls get brighter, it's because you're sending uninterrupted 12v to them instead of the reduced current from your original drl. This is why your original drl was just a dim version of your high beam.

I just went out and tested this, what happens is the DRL actually get brighter when you flash the high beams. I assume the brightness that LEDs become when being 'flashed' are how they SHOULD look at all times. Can anyone with stock LED DRL confirm that their LED's don't get brighter when they flash their high beams without any lights on (i assume they don't).

Has anyone contact HTG about this obvious deficiency?
I had some one confirm that a couple weeks ago. They don't get brighter.

I'm not sure that the HTG harness has a deficiency. It's just that it's the only way to make everything completely plug and play without having to run additional wires from the cabin.

It's also possible that the v6 models also run the drl at a reduced current. I haven't been able to confirm this. You would basically just need someone with a v6 to park next to the HTG version and see if the v6 is noticeably brighter.
 

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Yes when you flash the "high beam" and the drls get brighter, it's because you're sending uninterrupted 12v to them instead of the reduced current from your original drl.
Ok, so my question is that what intended voltage is supposed to be for the LEDs in their stock form? If that is the case, I think this can be fixed being doing a few adjustments to the HTG harness.

The harness appears to use the stock DRL input as its power source for the LEDs. So removing the current 30A pin, and replacing it with a 12v source into the 30A that turns on with the ignition should give it its full power. Also, then disregard the high beam harness portion of the HTG harness and simply plug the stock high beam connector into the new headlights. Also, removing the DRL fuse will stop the stock DRL high beam function.

I think the remainder of the HTG harness will continue to work as advertised and change the voltage input when headlights are turned on.

If I am totally off base, someone please let me know.
 

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Ok, so my question is that what intended voltage is supposed to be for the LEDs in their stock form? If that is the case, I think this can be fixed being doing a few adjustments to the HTG harness.

The harness appears to use the stock DRL input as its power source for the LEDs. So removing the current 30A pin, and replacing it with a 12v source into the 30A that turns on with the ignition should give it its full power. Also, then disregard the high beam harness portion of the HTG harness and simply plug the stock high beam connector into the new headlights. Also, removing the DRL fuse will stop the stock DRL high beam function.

I think the remainder of the HTG harness will continue to work as advertised and change the voltage input when headlights are turned on.

If I am totally off base, someone please let me know.
Yes, that is the question. And unfortunately it's not quite as easy as having a v6 owner measure the voltage. The dimming works via a pwm circuit which essentially switches the full voltage on and off really fast to limit current. On a regular meter it will still read at or near the full voltage.

My gut tells me that the stock v6 does NOT limit current, but idk for sure and since I've decided not to install the Touring lights right now, I'm not continuing my investigation haha. It would still be nice to know exactly how they should be powered though.

I know of at least one member who made their own harness and has been running the LEDs at the full 12v without issue for quite awhile.

I think your idea for wiring will work. The difference is normally the stock drl power is turned off when your headlights are on. Your ignition source wouldn't turn off. But I think the relay would route the power away from your ignition source anyway so it shouldn't matter.

Here is HTG's video of the Touring lights on his I4 Accord. Notice how the camera picks up the flicker from the stock drl pwm circuit. And when the headlights are turned on the flicker stops because the dim led setting is powered by full 12v from the parking lights instead of the limited (pwm) drl circuit.

http://youtu.be/lORqRXdiCWo
 

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In regards to my last post. I completed the steps, and used a jumper wire from the battery to the 30A pin on the relay. The DRL are significantly brighter and they still dim when the headlights are turned on.

I have noticed that there is an empty DRL fuse block in the engine compartment. I think I'm going to use this, along with another relay to get the LED DRL's their full 12v.
 

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In regards to my last post. I completed the steps, and used a jumper wire from the battery to the 30A pin on the relay. The DRL are significantly brighter and they still dim when the headlights are turned on.

I have noticed that there is an empty DRL fuse block in the engine compartment. I think I'm going to use this, along with another relay to get the LED DRL's their full 12v.
I think I tested that empty slot at one point and it gets no power. I know I tested ALL of the standard fuse slots in the engine compartment and not one of them was switched with the ignition. You may have to hunt for a wire under the hood to tap in to. Otherwise fuse slot #4 in the interior fuse box will work but you'll have to run a wire to engine compartment.
 

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I think I tested that empty slot at one point and it gets no power. I know I tested ALL of the standard fuse slots in the engine compartment and not one of them was switched with the ignition. You may have to hunt for a wire under the hood to tap in to. Otherwise fuse slot #4 in the interior fuse box will work but you'll have to run a wire to engine compartment.
Thanks, I'll move to an empty fuse slot before I start tapping off of wires.
 

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So I did everything as stated. Disconnected HTG's high beam portion of the harness and used the stock wiring as it is a direct swap. Installed a 4pin relay.

30a - 12V Power source
85 - Ground
86 - Switched power on source (used original DRL fuse slot with an add-a-circuit)
87 - To HTG's harness. Cut a portion of the high beam wire that provides the 30a power input on HTG 5pin relay.

The remainder of HTG's harness is installed and functioning. Currently the DRL LEDs are full bright when the car is on with low beams off, and with parking lights on. DRLs go to min. brightness when the low beams are turned on through the use of HTG's harness. Also, flashing of the high beams now work through all modes.

I know Gearhead has noted that the stock LED DRL use a PWM. I suppose I am taking a risk that these LEDs may burn out without it, so only time will tell.

Finally, to anyone buying these lights, don't purchase HTG's harness. I initially thought it performed as advertised. I didn't know what I was missing out on until this thread. Using all of the information in this thread, one should easily be able to build the harness once they find the appropriate connectors.
 

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So I did everything as stated. Disconnected HTG's high beam portion of the harness and used the stock wiring as it is a direct swap. Installed a 4pin relay.

30a - 12V Power source
85 - Ground
86 - Switched power on source (used original DRL fuse slot with an add-a-circuit)
87 - To HTG's harness. Cut a portion of the high beam wire that provides the 30a power input on HTG 5pin relay.

The remainder of HTG's harness is installed and functioning. Currently the DRL LEDs are full bright when the car is on with low beams off, and with parking lights on. DRLs go to min. brightness when the low beams are turned on through the use of HTG's harness. Also, flashing of the high beams now work through all modes.

I know Gearhead has noted that the stock LED DRL use a PWM. I suppose I am taking a risk that these LEDs may burn out without it, so only time will tell.

Finally, to anyone buying these lights, don't purchase HTG's harness. I initially thought it performed as advertised. I didn't know what I was missing out on until this thread. Using all of the information in this thread, one should easily be able to build the harness once they find the appropriate connectors.
No that's actually still an unknown to me. I don't know if the V6/Touring models use a pwm for the led drls or not. Just that the i4 models use it for the stock high beam drl.
 
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