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I wired the radar detector to #4 ACC which is only on when the ignition is on. For my dash cam I need two, an always on and ignition only on. I think I can use #5 ACC key lock for always on. What other fuse can I use for ignition only?

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I wired the radar detector to #4 ACC which is only on when the ignition is on. For my dash cam I need two, an always on and ignition only on. I think I can use #5 ACC key lock for always on. What other fuse can I use for ignition only?

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Try a multimeter, there are a couple of empty spots in the fuse box that have always on.

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2018 Accord 1.5T MSM
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Let me know what you come up with, when I tried using my add a circuit into #4 there was no power to my cam.

edit: Forgot to add a second fuse to complete the circuit to the cam, all wired up and working!
 

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I was thinking about this as well - but I've heard that the blind spot monitor Honda uses for our Accords hits right in the middle of the Ka band police often use (Googling this topic mentions Acuras and Hondas as offenders). While this is a potential nuisance for other cars near or approaching us, I'm wondering if our own sensors would trigger false alarms in our cars.

I could get over the fact that other drivers may drive a little more conservatively around us if this is true, but it also means they might take their eyes off of the road to hit mute on their detectors, so... :/

Just wondering if anyone has experienced this or put off buying a detector for this reason.

Thanks all.
 

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I was thinking about this as well - but I've heard that the blind spot monitor Honda uses for our Accords hits right in the middle of the Ka band police often use (Googling this topic mentions Acuras and Hondas as offenders). While this is a potential nuisance for other cars near or approaching us, I'm wondering if our own sensors would trigger false alarms in our cars.

I could get over the fact that other drivers may drive a little more conservatively around us if this is true, but it also means they might take their eyes off of the road to hit mute on their detectors, so... :/

Just wondering if anyone has experienced this or put off buying a detector for this reason.

Thanks all.


I have a 9500ix. Not a single issue except when I pass other Honda’s and Acura’s. My detector is mounted to the mirror with a blendmount.
 

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Did anyone find a constant power fuse in the fuse panel in the drivers floor area? Or in some other convenient location.

My dash cam requires switched power and constant power.

It looks to me like every fuse in that panel is switched power.
 

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Did anyone find a constant power fuse in the fuse panel in the drivers floor area? Or in some other convenient location.

My dash cam requires switched power and constant power.

It looks to me like every fuse in that panel is switched power.
You need to be careful if you are doing something like parking camera because it introduces parasitic load to the car and could run down your battery. If the 10th gen is anything like 9th gens then the battery might be barely adequate as is (depending on the model).

You might need a low power detection box or an added battery that will run your dashcam when parked. This is my dashcam go to store, they have a few products that address that need so it gives you idea even if you get them somewhere else:

https://www.thedashcamstore.com/power-accessories/
 

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I picked up a Thinkware F770. It has all of the battery run down logic in the Camera.
You just need to hook it up to constant power and switched power, so that it knows when to go into parking mode.

I was so hoping I could just use those adapt a fuses to patch into the fuse panel.
 

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I got my front camera in but for the rear id rather not deal with the airbags and pillars so im just having the shop who did my remote start put it in. While doing that ill have them hook up my "parking mode" setup from the dashcam mfc.

I have the Street Guardian SG9663DC
 

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I'm running into some trouble. I don't want to ruin my car so I'm asking for guidance.

I have a Vantrue N2 Pro Dashcam and would like to hardwire it to my 2018 Accord Hyrbid to a circuit that is always on.

I purchased the hardwire kit and add-a-fuse for low profile and mini fuses.

I was reading and watching videos about it being very important to install the add-a-fuse to the "lead" side which matters so the fuses actually are relayed when current is drawn.

Can someone please confirm before I install? Pics of your dashcam hardwired would be great if possible.

Also, I was planning on using fuse slot #40 for my driver side lumbar support.
 

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Use fuse slot #45, one on the very end that's not currently occupied by anything. You'll have a dedicated circuit just for your add ons and it's ignition only..

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Thank you for your reply. I will need the circuit to be "always on" (AO) and use the parking mode setup in the cam itself.

Should I disconnect my battery before pulling out the fuse?

A) If I use an unused (AO) slot, how would I use the add-a-fuse?
would I: insert both 10A fuses still, then what? how do I know which direction to plug in the add-a-fuse?

B) If I use slot#40, which is the Always On Driver Side Lumbar support - I know I will need to add the existing fuse into the lower slot of the add-a-fuse, and the new fuse (10A) into the top.
 
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