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Discussion Starter #1
2017 Accord Touring. The stock rotors suck so i just installed EBC Stage 5 rotors front and back with yellowstuff pads. I have not replaced the calipers yet but i don't think calipers would be the cause. I haven't even been the 50 miles yet but at 70+ mph, i notice a 'wobble'. The steering wheel does not 'wobble' but it feels like the front tires are wobbling now at 70+. I did not notice a wobble before the new rotors were installed. Here's, briefly, how i installed them: use ball peen hammer to loosen rotor screw then remove, removed the caliper slide pin bolts, removed the caliper bolts. When the calipers were off, i: used a file and wire brush to remove any rust or dirt from where the pad hardware meets the caliper. CarID/EBC did NOT send new brake pad hardware so i reused the existing hardware using a file/wire brush to remove any rust and dirt. Removed the caliper slide pins and wiped them down and applied new SLI-Slide grease. The existing grease inside the caliper slide housing looked black so i sprayed brake cleaner inside the housing and used a Q-tip to remove the old grease. Then applied SIL-Slide grease to the inside of the housing. Then i used fine sandpaper to remove any dirt and rust from the wheel hub (it wasn't flaky rust). Install rotor and screw, caliper slide pin piece, brake pads using EBC grease, caliper. I did not torque any bolts to spec. I tightened the bolts and then gave the wrench 2 good hits on all bolts including lug nuts. I have heard of warping due to being to tight (is that possible?). I also did NOT test for rotor runout as every tech i asked (including Honda Techs) said it's unlikely to have runout. Appreciate any help as i can't stand the 'wobble'
 

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Search for a thread by @t-rd called "brake job the right way". You probably made some install errors.
 

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I tightened the bolts and then gave the wrench 2 good hits on all bolts including lug nuts. I have heard of warping due to being to tight (is that possible?)
Yes it is possible, but probably not by hand. Now, set your air ratchet to maximum torque and it's possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Search for a thread by @t-rd called "brake job the right way". You probably made some install errors.
So i did everything he did in both videos (front and back). I did not use a dremel but used fine sandpaper and the hub did not contain any flaky rust. I also did not spray the hub with brake cleaner. All my slide pins moved but seemed you had to use force to move them. All of them seemed this way. So is it safe to say the issue is contained to the front and not the rear brakes/clipers?
 

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Wobble while braking at high speed or wobble without the brake pedal pressed?

The only reason for wobbling at high speed after a brake job, without your foot on the brake pedal are:
  • rotors not mounted flush to the wheel hub. Most likely cause is always rust on the hub's surface, this causes a large runout when it's all the way out to the wheel
  • wheel lug nuts not torqued down
The last reason would be wheel bearing or ball joints but that's not likely since it's a relatively new car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Without the brake pedal pressed. I removed the rotors and calipers (front) today and used a dremmel like tool to remove more dust/rust although when you take your hand and run it across the hub, it is completely smooth. I also used some sandpaper to remove any rust or dirt bilt-up on the inside of the rim (where the rim meets the rotor). I am also 95% certain all 4 calipers are fried! All the caliper slide pins are very difficult to move. One so much so, that when you remove the caliper slide pin, the rubber grommet that's on the end comes off. Also, am i right in assuming the problem is with the front verses the rear?

To recap: front rotors and pads are new, rear rotors and pads are new. Remounted front rotors to ensure as flush as i could get them. Then used sanding tool to remove rust from front 2 hub surfaces. Also torqued all wheel lugs to 80 ft/lbs
Should i get a dial indicator with a magnetic base and correct the runout so the wobble goes away?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2017 Honda Accord Touring Crystal Black Pearl and i frickin' love this car!! However, i can't stand the scrubbing noise coming from the brake area. This scrubbing noise is present at all times even when not pressing the brakes. The noise doesn't seem to intensify when applying the brakes. I have had my local Honda shop replace all 4 pads and turn all 4 rotors => still have this noise. Informed Honda that pads and rotor turning didn't work and they pushed the backing plate back (said it was rubbing). This didn't fix the problem and they say the rotors must have pad deposits embedded into them and said replace the rotors. I bought some EBC stage 5 rotors and yellowstuff pads. Installed the EBC and new pads and still have this scrubbing sound!! When i replaced the rotors and pads i also took the caliper slide pins out and removed the grease and applied new grease. While taking the pins out to clean and reapply i noticed they did not move easily but i went ahead and cleaned the pins and reinstall back into the calipers. Before i replace all the pins or the calipers entirely, what else is left that can make that scrubbing sound and this scrubbing sound is always present even when not applying the brakes. This noise sounds like metal on metal. Thanks for any advise in advance!
 

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This is NOT the same thing. Why did it get moved here?
2017 Honda Accord Touring Crystal Black Pearl and i frickin' love this car!! However, i can't stand the scrubbing noise coming from the brake area. This scrubbing noise is present at all times even when not pressing the brakes. The noise doesn't seem to intensify when applying the brakes. I have had my local Honda shop replace all 4 pads and turn all 4 rotors => still have this noise. Informed Honda that pads and rotor turning didn't work and they pushed the backing plate back (said it was rubbing). This didn't fix the problem and they say the rotors must have pad deposits embedded into them and said replace the rotors. I bought some EBC stage 5 rotors and yellowstuff pads. Installed the EBC and new pads and still have this scrubbing sound!! When i replaced the rotors and pads i also took the caliper slide pins out and removed the grease and applied new grease. While taking the pins out to clean and reapply i noticed they did not move easily but i went ahead and cleaned the pins and reinstall back into the calipers. Before i replace all the pins or the calipers entirely, what else is left that can make that scrubbing sound and this scrubbing sound is always present even when not applying the brakes. This noise sounds like metal on metal. Thanks for any advise in advance!
The scrubbing noise is almost guaranteed to be coming from the bead of the tires on the rim of the wheels. Do you have Continental tires by chance? My 2017 Touring made this noise so bad that I just took off the 19’s and installed the set of 18” Sport wheels I had from my previous Accord. No more noise! I still have a bad rotor problem with a shimmy when braking, but I think it’s related to the rotors. The dealer already replaced one side under warranty after they said the rotor was warped in the hub area and that that had seen the same issue on Oddyseys. If you are still on stock tires, replacing them may eliminate the noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow! What a hard time with my local Honda shop but... FINALLY no scrapping noise. Honda tech installed pad retainers (which makes me wonder where they were in the first place) and no scrapping noise!! Also the wobble is fixed after i broke the lug nuts loose and torque them to Honda specs
 

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Discussion Starter #12
2017 Accord Touring. I just replaced all 4 rotors and all pads with yellowstuff. On 1 rear roitor, i see about a quarter inch line of rust all the way around the rotor. This tells me the pad is NOT making contact at that rust line all around the rotor. I took the pads off and inspected them. New pads so pad thickness is in check. Caliper is lined up to the knuckle on the back of the inside pad. I also took the pad hardware off and cleaned with brake cleaner. Attached is a picture of the rotor rust and pad. The caliper pins have been "rebuilt" (cleaned, caliper bushings replaced and caliper grommets were replaced. Then new clasiper grease added). Not exactly sure what to look at next. Any guidance is appreciated.


518506
 

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Unless you have the rotors machined, the new pads will have to conform to the shape of the slightly worn rotor. Not a big deal, if that's what's going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So do i hear right? All rotors are brand new EBC stage 5 along with all new yellowstuff, that right rear rotor is the ONLY rotor that exhibits the rust on the outside of the rotor. Something wrong with that particular rotor?

BTW, what a great way to completely confuse any and ALL future finders of this thread! Why must you combine EVERYTHING i post to this 1 thread??
 
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