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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The link below has a write-up on how I replaced the lower control arm bushings on a 2007 Accord 4CYL.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/194891809/Replacing-Lower-Control-Arm-Bushings-on-a-2007-Honda-Accord

I am curious to hear others' comments on:

1. When do you suggest replacing control arm bushings (i.e. how big a tear in the bushing is acceptable)?

2. Any suggestions on removing the stubborn compliance bushing bolt?

P.S. I couldn't attach the PDF due to the 10MB quota on total uploads :(. Please let me know if you have any problems with the link.

 

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Nice, thanks for the info.
Do you think it's worth it to buy two new lower control arms with all the bushings already pressed in?
 

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Wow, that's the most complete info I have ever gotten on compliance bushing change. I've been searching for this info for the longest time and never found anything anywhere, even on an Acura forum. So THANK YOU first!

I have to say this, since you have a bushing press, you can keep the original arm and just buy replacement bushings. For the most of us that don't have a press, I'd just buy another arm + bushings already pressed in. It costs more, but it's less hassle taking it to an auto shop to get the old pressed out and new pressed in.

I have attempted to twist off the compliance bushing bolt once to install a chassis bar and noticed the whole bushing twisting so I completely stopped. During that process, I tore the bushing just a little bit due to the twisting action. Now I've seen what you did there, I'll try this method when it comes time to replace mine.
 

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You da MAN John. I ordered the parts to rebuild my power steering pump, using the tips from your other thread. Now, when the time comes for compliance bushing replacement I have some great tips on that too. Thanks a lot:thmsup:
I can use the press where I work to do this, and save some $$$ on buying entire lower arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the comments!

As far as buying complete new lower control arms rather than replacing the bushings: at Majestic that would cost $310 (for both sides). If only the compliance bushings need to be replaced, that is only $29 (both sides). If all the bushings need to be replaced it would be $75 (both sides). So there is quite a premium for buying the whole arm. Then again if you have to pay to get the bushings pressed in, that eats up some of the difference.

A few additional thoughts on the matter:

1. A decent shop press is not that expensive. In fact, it would be cheaper to buy the bushings and a shop press than it would to buy the new control arms!!! I got my 20 ton press from Harbor Freight for $150 (it is usually $199 but is regularly on sale for $149). So if you bought the bushings for $75 and the shop press for $150, you would only spend $225 rather than $310 for new control arms! (I know there might be other considerations like having a place to put it, etc. but maybe it is something to consider for some).

2. I think you could press in the new bushings with a ball joint press (C clamp type) that I think you can borrow from auto parts stores. They go in with pretty little effort. However, I strongly doubt you could get the old bushings out this way. But another way to get the old bushings out (that you have probably seen) is to cut/drill out the rubber, then cut a few slits in the metal sleeve (with a hack saw or sawzall) and then remove the sleeve pieces with a hammer and chisel. Perhaps this approach would work for some.

Happy New Year!
John
 

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John, once again I thank you. And I appreciate your suggestion of even buying a press from Harbor Freight (reselling on Craigslist?) to keep costs down. And even more, I appreciate that you showed you had a problem with removal, and took graduated steps (wow on those Vice-Grips!) to complete the tasks instead of making everything look as if it is simply a 1-2-3 procedure. Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Rick! Yes, I was surprised the Vise Grips actually held the inner bushing sleeve from swiveling. But they seemed to do the trick on both sides of the vehicle. I definitely had them locked down as tight as I could get them, but I would have thought they would have been no match for a 3' cheater bar!

By the way, I notice that SCRIBD allows you to view the PDF but not download (unless you have a SCRIBD subscription). If anyone wants the actual PDF, send me a private message and I will email it to you.
 

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When the ball joints are bad you begin to hear a banging noise when going over bumps and stuff. But would it make sense to hear the noise on the opposite side? For example I have a bad passengers side upper ball joint. But I hear a clanking noise from the drivers side,mat first I thought it was my batter that wasn't properly tied down or something but I had a mechanic drive it and he explained it to me. I'm just curious as to why it's from the opposite side.
 

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hey BLCKFLSH , would you know off hand what the OEM material is for honda's bushings? just wondering..


The only thing I question is how long will these bushings last? If they last as long as the originals, fine, but what if the compliance bushing starts cracking in two years? Would they still be worth it?
Thats a very good question. at $65-70 each you wouldnt loose alot IF it did only last a few years. i think when i priced the bushings alone they were $45-$60 each side withOut the label and what not for someone to install/press the new ones.

for what ever this is worth..
 

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It's not like I'm looking forward to pressing bushings, so it sounds like a chance I may be willing to take. I figure by this time next year I'd like to have new bushings or control arms. The compliance bushings are just starting to develop hairline cracks.
 

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Sorry if this is a dumb question but, are the arms "universal"? what i mean is, is there a left and a right, or 1 can be used for both sides? I know im not wording that correctly, but im sure you guys know what I mean. I ask because I searched to see if a local parts shop had them in stock online and it asked for the right or left, but basically showed me the same picture/price. So, just wanted to ask my fellow Gen7 crew. Thanx in advance
 

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Yes, there is a left and right. You can't just flip it over.
 

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Sorry if this is a dumb question but, are the arms "universal"? what i mean is, is there a left and a right, or 1 can be used for both sides? I know im not wording that correctly, but im sure you guys know what I mean. I ask because I searched to see if a local parts shop had them in stock online and it asked for the right or left, but basically showed me the same picture/price. So, just wanted to ask my fellow Gen7 crew. Thanx in advance

when i started looking into them , i saw Everyone listed separate part numbers for both left and right, so that tells me they are not the same..
 

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Just so folks know
With the auto parts warehouse site, these are the parts #'s for each side I got after speaking with a rep

MORK640289-Passenger side

MORK640290-Driver side
 

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Scribd is totally obnoxious asking for money or document uploads. So I uploaded some BS windows document to them so I could download JohnNH's tutorial without paying those scammers. Anyway, I posted the tutorial to my Drive at the link below for hassle free downloading. John, I assumed this was OK with you. If not, let me know any I'll remove it. No promises on how long I keep this file on my Drive though lol

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxv...1BBUmlUNVN3eUlqUTFQdzNN/edit?usp=docslist_api
 

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So pretty scary stuff...-_-

Takes a lot of work and tools....and a garage, which I wish I had.

A good and detailed write up.
 

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Moog's are fine and they are less than $100 each with the bushings in

I had to cut the bolts out of each side for the big front bushing. Bought replacement grade 8 bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. Put a little grease inside the new front bushing to help keep it from seizing in the future.

I've had the Moog one's on 3-4 years and no issues.

http://www.partsgeek.com/v8b2skq-honda-accord-control-arm.html
 
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