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Decided it prudent to upgrade the stock valve springs on our H22. Pretty straight forward, used compressed air to hold the valves closed. Down to the last cylinder and find a sticky exhaust valve. Time to pull the head and off to the machine shop it goes. Disassemble, hot tank, pressure test, deck the HG surface [discovered the HG was beginning to fail]. Recommended we replace all exhaust valve guides [3 other exhaust valves were sticking too, just not as much as the stuck one], cut the seats and grind valves. Intakes in good condition so they're set.

ARP head studs, new HG, installed the head and we decided to use a poly intake gasket [they claim a 35 degree decrease in intake temps by eliminating the metal-metal contact of intake and head]. Cams in and will finish the job next Tuesday when we're back at the shop.

Winter time is when we touch every nut, bolt, etc. preparing for the upcoming endurance race season. Also working on adding a bit more lightness, we've taking about 50 more pounds off the car thus far.

First race is Watkins Glen, then Nelson Ledges and Thompson [CT].

Decided that during our off season [Nov-Apr] we'd upgrade our H22's valve springs to a bit stiffer. This will allow us a bit higher RPM/shift point for some tracks. If we can eliminate a minimum of 1 up/down shift per lap that's substantial. Will save wear on the drivetrain, eliminate a potential money shift and slightly lower lap times [estimate about 1/10 second].

So we get 3 of the 4 cylinders complete and the 4th has an exhaust valve sticking. So, pull the head, hot tank, pressure test [good], new exhaust valve guides [there were 3 others sticking], cut the valve seats, grind valves and reassemble.

Nearly finished assembling the engine last night and hope to fire it up next week. From there we'll heat cycle it then retorque the head studs [upgraded to ARP while the head was off]. After we'll see how much more weight we can remove for the upcoming season. We're slightly below 2300# with 1/2 tank of gas and driver!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Completed the head install, valve adjustment, etc. and fired her up Tuesday. Surprisingly the idle is now smoother to boot! Let it warm up completely, t-stat open so we could refill the cooling system. 1-2 more heat cycles, pull the valve cover and cams then retorque the ARP head studs. That should be it on the engine to be ready for our first race this season at Watkins Glen in May.

Engine heat cycled and this week we'll re-torque the new ARP head studs. Want to know if anyone a trick for removing the crankshaft pulley bolt. We've tried a large breaker bar, pneumatic and electric impact guns with no luck. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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All three are my go to options. If the bolt won’t budge I’ll spray the bolt with penetrating oil and let it sit for 12-24 hours.
 

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Working on "adding lightness" as one of our off-season projects. Thus far we've added about 39 lbs of lightness. Removed the side mirrors and substituted convex race mirrors [lighter and tucked in from the wind = less aero drag], interior sheet metal around the rear windows and some from the roof, more material from the doors. Probably about done now and focused on making sure all is ready for our first race - Watkins Glen 5/23-24. Hopefully we'll move beyond COVID19 and the race will go as scheduled.
 
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