[TMVB]

Kenwood finally shipped their new 2106 units and I just finished adding it. I didn't want to give up ANY functionality so this took a bit. I wanted to keep factory iMid displays and keep all steering wheel control buttons, not just volume up/down.

I installed a Kenwood DDX9903S double din and a a PAC SWI-CP5 steering wheel controller. And I kept the factory HU connected by burying it in the dash under the Kenwood. Plenty of room after I removed the ANC module and cut the cubby drawer (pics to follow).

I already had a NVX JAD900.5 5 channel amp, Polk Audio db6501 and db651, and a JL 10" sub in a custom enclosure in the trunk. Amp and LOC were located in the trunk but since I can now ditch the LOC, I decided to relocate the amp to under the passenger seat.

Lots of pictures to follow but here's a quick video review that shows how it all works

And here's the wiring diagram I made to help me keep everything straight. Note that I have both the Kenwood and the factory HU sharing some wires like ACC, Constant 12V, Chassis Ground, etc.

 

[TMVB]

How to stuff the factory HU

1. Once I had the factory HU removed, I went ahead and unbolted and removed the ANC module to provide more room.
2. With the cubby out, you can see an opening up to where the HU sits but the opening is just a little too small. So I cut (with a utility knife) the plastic to widen the opening.

 

[TMVB]

That allowed me to slide the factory HU up into the cavity behind the climate controls.

And when I need to connect the faceplate to do things like change the clock, I can slide it back out again. I will only have to do this twice a year (DST and back) so no big deal.

 

[TMVB]

Making the cubby smaller

I actually could fit the factory HU up behind the climate control and keep the entire cubby. But I wanted to not have it be so crammed. So I cut the cubby in half, then slide the back half into the inside of the front half. And cut holes for my new USB cables.

 

[TMVB]

Mounting the aftermarket mic

Thanks to @zerog270 for this idea!

Removed the factory mic and ran the aftermarket into the same spot. The aftermarket mic came with a little tab that had tape on it so I just stuck it inside that cavity and pointed the mic towards the driver's chair.

 

[TMVB]

Keeping the Steering Wheel Control buttons

This was not easy.

The PAC SWI-CP5 is a really cool SWC adapter that you program by downloading an app to your smartphone and then connecting that to the module via USB.

Only problem was that when it programmed the module, my vol +/- and Ch +/-, and voice buttons worked but the answer/hang up buttons did not.

Quick call to PAC tech support and they had me manually set it using the dip switches instead of programming via the app. Worked first time after doing that.

 

[TMVB]

Wiring it all up

So I ended up with three main bundles of wires. One to the SWC. One to the Kenwood. And a set going to the factory HU. You can kind of make them out in this picture.

Kenwood main connector is lower right. That's the SWC on the left. And factory 24 pin is upper center.

 

[TMVB]

Moving the amp to under passenger seat

It was in the trunk but decided to relocate it to under the passenger seat.

I ran the rear speaker and sub wires down the passenger side and used the factory tunnel to get under the B pillar.

 

[TMVB]

All other wires went down the center console and then out the side to under the passenger seat.

And if you look closely near the bottom center of this pic, you can see where I grounded the amp.

In this bundle is power, remote turn on, and RCA cables coming from the Kenwood.

 

[arempee26]

Kenwood finally shipped their new 2106 units and I just finished adding it. I didn't want to give up ANY functionality so this took a bit. I wanted to keep factory iMid displays and keep all steering wheel control buttons, not just volume up/down.

I installed a Kenwood DDX9903S double din and a a PAC SWI-CP5 steering wheel controller. And I kept the factory HU connected by burying it in the dash under the Kenwood. Plenty of room after I removed the ANC module and cut the cubby drawer (pics to follow).

I already had a NVX JAD900.5 5 channel amp, Polk Audio db6501 and db651, and a JL 10" sub in a custom enclosure in the trunk. Amp and LOC were located in the trunk but since I can now ditch the LOC, I decided to relocate the amp to under the passenger seat.

Lots of pictures to follow but here's a quick video review that shows how it all works

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ij65nB366do

And here's the wiring diagram I made to help me keep everything straight. Note that I have both the Kenwood and the factory HU sharing some wires like ACC, Constant 12V, Chassis Ground, etc.

Do you know if this kit will work on 2016 Sport?


Sent from my iPhone 6S+ using Tapatalk

 

[CheezyPoofs]

I hope you feel that was time well spent.

 

[Xclimation]

Thank You! Any chance of posting a picture of the factory head unit after you took the ANC and Cd player off, please? How hard is it to reduce the factory head unit?

 

[TMVB]

Thank You! Any chance of posting a picture of the factory head unit after you took the ANC and Cd player off, please? How hard is it to reduce the factory head unit?

I tried coming up with a solution of disassembling and burying it but what was challenging was that I needed to keep the heat sink connected and that kept the size almost original. Yes, I could probably have modified the heat sink to make it smaller but I just gave up, put it back together again and buried the entire HU.

 

[TMVB]

Do you know if this kit will work on 2016 Sport?


Sent from my iPhone 6S+ using Tapatalk

2016 LX and Sport have the same head unit as the 2103-2015 LX/Sport/EX AFIK. So yes, this would work on a 2016 LX or Sport.

 

[TMVB]

I hope you feel that was time well spent.

As I do for you.

 

[arempee26]

2016 LX and Sport have the same head unit as the 2103-2015 LX/Sport/EX AFIK. So yes, this would work on a 2016 LX or Sport.

What else do I need besides the dashkits to work with the steering wheel controls?
I'm so excited when I saw this post... I really want Apple CarPlay on my 16 Sport...

Thanks!


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[TMVB]

What else do I need besides the dashkits to work with the steering wheel controls?
I'm so excited when I saw this post... I really want Apple CarPlay on my 16 Sport...

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone 6S+ using Tapatalk

1. Antenna adapter
2. Schosche Dash Kit
3. PAC SWI-CP5 Steering Wheel Controller
4. Wire Connectors (I suck at soldering so these things were a life-saver! I used a pack and a half.

 

[arempee26]

1. Antenna adapter

2. Schosche Dash Kit

3. PAC SWI-CP5 Steering Wheel Controller

4. Wire Connectors (I suck at soldering so these things were a life-saver! I used a pack and a half.

Do I need to get a wire harness also or it comes with the dashkit?


Sent from my iPhone 6S+ using Tapatalk

 

[jb4674]

It's a real shame Honda decided to screw all its customers by limiting their audio options.


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[TMVB]

Do I need to get a wire harness also or it comes with the dashkit?


Sent from my iPhone 6S+ using Tapatalk

It depends on how you want to wire it up. If you do what I did, I did not use a wiring harness because I tapped into the factory harness directly so that both the factory HU and Kenwood would get Constant 12V, ACC 12V, etc). That is the only way to keep the factory iMid screens. If you don't mind the screens the Metra adapter kit serves up, you can pick up the Metra 99-7804B and go with that. In that case I think they include the Metra receiver harness I believe.

It's a real shame Honda decided to screw all its customers by limiting their audio options.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed. But I feel like I've won. No more crappy Honda infotainment experience with it interfering with texts and Siri. Yes this cost a bunch of money and time, but I've learned a ton (has become kind of a hobby) and now I've got exactly what I want. Great sound. Great user experience. Completely integrated CarPlay infotainment solution.