[Drew03Accord]

2003, 4cyl, 100K

Every now and then my AC simply stops cooling. I can usually turn the car off and on again, then it starts back cooling. Happens rarely, but still worrisome. I'm wondering if there is a bad relay or switch of some sort. Any ideas?

Thanks... Drew...

 

[Fredsvt]

You need to get the hvac panel to display any codes it may have stored related to the system, to start.

 

[BLCKFLSH]

My car was doing this, among other strange things, two years ago. I got the codes from the MICU (odo display), and the first thing in the flowcharts said to check the battery. Autozone tested it, and said it was weak. Changed the battery, and it never happened again. The battery still had enough power to crank the engine, but cranking the engine took so much power away from the system it was causing communication errors from the MICU.

Found out about this later on

 

[Drew03Accord]

Thanks guys and sorry for this super-super late reply. Well, the problem has gotten worse. I now have no AC more often than I do. Sometimes all I have to do is hit the AC button a few times and it will start cooling (ice cold air) or it just kicks in by itself. I'm going to try changing the battery because I'm pretty sure it's weak. The car starts and runs well, but the headlights dim whenever I roll up my windows and hold the window switch in the roll-up position. I also cleaned the battery terminals thinking it might help, to no avail.

I was unable to perform the diag procedure above, I have an 03' LX model and the controls are different. The temp control knob is on the right and there is no off button.

...Drew..

 

[Fredsvt]

when it doesn't work, if you're able, try and tap on the clutch hub of the a/c compressor, see if it starts. The car will have to be running for this though.

It seems there's quite a few with weak a/c clutch coils.

You can also check to see if there's voltage going to the a/c coil, if there is, and its not engaged, the coil's bad.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Thanks Fred, I'll try those things. I was able to locate the HVAC diags pertinent to my model on the web. I came up with no error codes. Here are steps in case anyone needs them.

----------------------------------------

How to Retrieve a DTC
The audio-HVAC display panel has a self-diagnostic function for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system. To run the self-diagnostic function, do the following:

Turn the ignition switch OFF.

Turn the fan switch OFF.

Set the temperature control dial on Max Cool, then push the mode control button to select Vent.

Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

Press and hold the recirculation control button.

While holding the button down, press the rear window defogger button five times within 10 seconds. The recirculation indicator blinks two times, then the self-diagnosis will begin.

If there is any problem in the system after self-diagnosis is finished, the recirculation indicator will blink Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 1 through 6. If there are any problems in the evaporator temperature sensor circuit, the A/C indicator will blink DTC 7 or 8.

If no DTC's are found, the indicator will not blink.


Cancelling the Self-diagnostic Function
Turn the ignition switch OFF to cancel the self-diagnostic function. After completing repair work, run the self-diagnostic function again to make sure that there are no other malfunctions.
__________________
MASTER ACURA TECH
23 years with HONDA/ACURA

 

[CarlR33]

When mine went out over the winter it was the clutch relay that went totally out. Only a $7 part. Not sure if it can cause intermittent problems?

 

[OrangesOfCourse]

i'm having the exact same problem. i'll look for the codes tomorrow and let you guys know.

 

[Drew03Accord]

When mine went out over the winter it was the clutch relay that went totally out. Only a $7 part. Not sure if it can cause intermittent problems?

Sounds like a good possibility. I assume it can be found in the fuse box under the hood. Where did you buy the part...did you go with OEM or aftermarket?

 

[Nameless]

Mine was having the exact same problem. Intermittent first until it stop cooling permanently.

It was the clutch coil. It has a small breaker inside that go bad over time. I find it used and replaced.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Mine was having the exact same problem. Intermittent first until it stop cooling permanently.

It was the clutch coil. It has a small breaker inside that go bad over time. I find it used and replaced.

Were you able to replace the coil without having to release the freon, or does that require complete removal of the compressor?

 

[Nameless]

Were you able to replace the coil without having to release the freon, or does that require complete removal of the compressor?

I think it can be done, but the compressor pulley is too tight and there is no enough room. My mechanical tried to do it that way, but in the end is a lot easier just to remove the compressor. You can check if is the coil that is broken without removing the compressor using a multimeter.

 

[OrangesOfCourse]

Mine was having the exact same problem. Intermittent first until it stop cooling permanently.

It was the clutch coil. It has a small breaker inside that go bad over time. I find it used and replaced.

do you happen to have a part number for the coil? Mine is getting worse. Its a gamble every time i start the car to see if the compressor will kick on.

 

[Nameless]

do you happen to have a part number for the coil? Mine is getting worse. Its a gamble every time i start the car to see if the compressor will kick on.

Not sure if they sell the coil separate from the compressor. I find it used from a junk yard.

Maybe someone here knows the part number, and if it sold without the whole compressor.

 

[Nameless]

Found this

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~stator~set~38924-RCA-A01.html

 

[CarlR33]

Sounds like a good possibility. I assume it can be found in the fuse box under the hood. Where did you buy the part...did you go with OEM or aftermarket?

Had dealer do it and I would guess it was OEM Honda. Found under hood fuse box. Sounds like it is your coil/compressor though.

 

[DanielNegranno]

Air Conditioning Compressor Coil Replacement

Hello, Okay, so it has been determined by my a/c mechanic that in fact, I need a new compressor coil. They recommended replacing the compressor, since the amount of labor involved in pulling it out, replacing the coil, then putting everything back together. It makes sense to me. (Similar concept as to replacing the belts and water pump when you replace the timing belt.) I would however, prefer to just replace the coil. Why, I believe a Honda A/C compressor will last more than 7 years, and that a coil replacement and several hours of time would be worth the gamble. ($200 versus $700)

2003 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl, AT5, 110k.

My questions are
1. Does anyone have a high-level step by step guide/recommendations to removing and installing all of the parts?
2. Are there any "tricky things" to watch out for?
3. Are there any helpful suggestions?
4. Do I have to re-shim the clutch?
5. Can anyone provide helpul links to describe replacement?
6. Are there any special tools required?
7. Is it better from the bottom or the top?

Thanks!
Daniel

 

[BLCKFLSH]

Hello, Okay, so it has been determined by my a/c mechanic that in fact, I need a new compressor coil. They recommended replacing the compressor, since the amount of labor involved in pulling it out, replacing the coil, then putting everything back together. It makes sense to me. (Similar concept as to replacing the belts and water pump when you replace the timing belt.) I would however, prefer to just replace the coil. Why, I believe a Honda A/C compressor will last more than 7 years, and that a coil replacement and several hours of time would be worth the gamble. ($200 versus $700)

2003 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl, AT5, 110k.

My questions are
1. Does anyone have a high-level step by step guide/recommendations to removing and installing all of the parts?
2. Are there any "tricky things" to watch out for?
3. Are there any helpful suggestions?
4. Do I have to re-shim the clutch?
5. Can anyone provide helpul links to describe replacement?
6. Are there any special tools required?
7. Is it better from the bottom or the top?

Thanks!
Daniel

I would not advise trying to change the coil, with the compressor still in the car.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Had dealer do it and I would guess it was OEM Honda. Found under hood fuse box. Sounds like it is your coil/compressor though.

Can't believe I didn't come back to update this thread way back when. The fix to my issue was indeed, a simple AC relay. It cost less than ten bucks and has been cooling like a champ ever since. A big belated THANKS to those that helped.

...Drew....

 

[DanielNegranno]

Answers to Questions

Okay, so I replaced my compressor coil. Here are the post replacement answers to my own questions.

My questions are
1. Does anyone have a high-level step by step guide/recommendations to removing and installing all of the parts? Although I replaced the coil on the compressor in the car, I would recommend removing the compressor. The workspace if very cumbersome and tight. Therefore, before you start the job, go get your AC system evacuated. Also, get a AC compressor pulley remover. Also take lots of pictures along the way, and be sure and bag your nuts.

2. Are there any "tricky things" to watch out for? No, not really. Just lots of things get in the way, lots of things to remove, and lots of tedious work.

3. Are there any helpful suggestions? Like I said, get the system evacuated and get a pulley remover. Got to have a breaker type bar to relax the belt tensioner. Get a twelve pack of beer for after the job is complete, because you will definitely need it. I would also go ahead and get a new serpantine belt. They are only $40 and worth replacing since you'll have the old one off the engine. Not a big deal, but worth doing.

4. Do I have to re-shim the clutch? No, but be sure and remove things carefully. The shim will fall out and you could lose it...then you are in a bit of a bind. (New shims come with the new coil, but you won't know what size to use.)

5. Can anyone provide helpul links to describe replacement? Couldn't find one.

6. Are there any special tools required? Yes, AC Compressor pulley removal tool. A piece of cardboard to protect the radiator and AC core is really helpful. Oh, also an impact screwdriver is helpful.

7. Is it better from the bottom or the top? You will have to access the compressor from both the top and bottom. The bottom two compressor bolts are in a very tight space.

So, to close, if you are prepared, the job will take about 4-5 hours. It's not a real tough job, but then again, it's not real easy. You really have to have your head in the job or things can get broken, lost or damaged real easy. Once you have the compressor out, the actual coil replacement is very easy. It's getting there that's the tough part. It is rewarding however, as if you do the work yourself, the coil replacement is approximately $150. Take it to the shop and your looking at $500-750 easy. Additionally, most shops will want to replace your compressor.