Had the day off, so I decided to see if I could modify my stock automatic shift knob on my 2014 EX-L V6 Sedan to be shorter similar to the manual shift knob mod. I originally wanted to try replacing the knob with a newer gen RDX, TSX, TL knob with boot similar to this 8th gen thread:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35420
…but the time and $$$ for that mod ended up steering me towards this direction.
Step 1: I first removed the knob with College Hills helpful video:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74955
Ended up cracking the top part of the back cover because I wasn’t gentle enough =( Fortunately, it can’t be seen.
Step 2: My first thought was to lower the top countersunk screw to the bottom hole (I’ll explain why this does NOT work in a bit!), so I first cut the bottom of chrome stick cover down by the dimension center to center of the screw holes, sanded the edges and cleaned.
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Step 3: I then found that the knob still didn’t go all the way down because there’s a hole that acts as a seat just below the shift knob button within the knob that rests on the actual cylindrical stick. I used a ½” dremel with 6” extension to drill out the hole bigger so it no longer sat on the stick.
![Image]()
Step 4 FAIL – DO NOT USE THIS STEP: With that complete, the knob was now sitting on the white switch above the cylindrical stick. I pushed it down and inserted the top knob screw into the bottom screw hole.
There’re 2 problems with this:
1. This eliminated the parking safety lock and shift button, which I did not want.
2. Even worse, I wasn’t able to turn the car off because of that “Easter Egg” that keeps the power on when pushing the start button while the shift button switch is engaged. Pretty major problem. FAIL.
--So with that, I knew the countersunk holes would not be able to work anymore without having to drill new holes. Plus, it was a must that the knob sit above the switch to avoid problem #2.
Step 5: Next, I thought to cut down the button switch above the cylindrical stick so it sits lower. I found that I needed to cut ONLY the amount needed to disengage the parking safetly lock. I found this dimension by sticking the shifter around halfway between park and reverse where the switch would need to be pushed down the furthest to disengage. It was only a couple mm. This is critical in being able to shift out of park. If you were to cut the switch too low, you will not be able to shift out of park!
-- So I now had a loose ghetto shifter which really sucks, so I took some trusty exterior grade 3M double sided tape I had from mounting my HID ballasts, and I wrapped one layer around the cylindrical stick. (two vertical strips fit perfectly around). I then shoved the knob and cover over the taped stick (I had to shove pretty hard) all the way down to just above where the switch is so not to encounter problem #2 again.
![Image]()
-- Thankfully, this is working out so far. The knob is very firmly in place with that tape in lieu of the screws. I’ll just have to wait until I see 100 degree weather to see if it affects it at all. Should be okay since my ballasts have been mounted without issues with extreme heat.
-- Here’s the final results. Glad everything worked out so far. The knob sits lower, the button works, and no issues with the parking lock. Doesn’t seem like much, but it feels A LOT better. My hand can rest on it more naturally in sport mode especially.
![Image]()
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DISCLAIMER: Proceed at your own risk!!! It wasn’t easy, but it was free! >)
And just for fun… party on!
![Image]()
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35420
…but the time and $$$ for that mod ended up steering me towards this direction.
Step 1: I first removed the knob with College Hills helpful video:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74955
Ended up cracking the top part of the back cover because I wasn’t gentle enough =( Fortunately, it can’t be seen.
Step 2: My first thought was to lower the top countersunk screw to the bottom hole (I’ll explain why this does NOT work in a bit!), so I first cut the bottom of chrome stick cover down by the dimension center to center of the screw holes, sanded the edges and cleaned.
Step 3: I then found that the knob still didn’t go all the way down because there’s a hole that acts as a seat just below the shift knob button within the knob that rests on the actual cylindrical stick. I used a ½” dremel with 6” extension to drill out the hole bigger so it no longer sat on the stick.
Step 4 FAIL – DO NOT USE THIS STEP: With that complete, the knob was now sitting on the white switch above the cylindrical stick. I pushed it down and inserted the top knob screw into the bottom screw hole.
There’re 2 problems with this:
1. This eliminated the parking safety lock and shift button, which I did not want.
2. Even worse, I wasn’t able to turn the car off because of that “Easter Egg” that keeps the power on when pushing the start button while the shift button switch is engaged. Pretty major problem. FAIL.
--So with that, I knew the countersunk holes would not be able to work anymore without having to drill new holes. Plus, it was a must that the knob sit above the switch to avoid problem #2.
Step 5: Next, I thought to cut down the button switch above the cylindrical stick so it sits lower. I found that I needed to cut ONLY the amount needed to disengage the parking safetly lock. I found this dimension by sticking the shifter around halfway between park and reverse where the switch would need to be pushed down the furthest to disengage. It was only a couple mm. This is critical in being able to shift out of park. If you were to cut the switch too low, you will not be able to shift out of park!
-- So I now had a loose ghetto shifter which really sucks, so I took some trusty exterior grade 3M double sided tape I had from mounting my HID ballasts, and I wrapped one layer around the cylindrical stick. (two vertical strips fit perfectly around). I then shoved the knob and cover over the taped stick (I had to shove pretty hard) all the way down to just above where the switch is so not to encounter problem #2 again.
-- Thankfully, this is working out so far. The knob is very firmly in place with that tape in lieu of the screws. I’ll just have to wait until I see 100 degree weather to see if it affects it at all. Should be okay since my ballasts have been mounted without issues with extreme heat.
-- Here’s the final results. Glad everything worked out so far. The knob sits lower, the button works, and no issues with the parking lock. Doesn’t seem like much, but it feels A LOT better. My hand can rest on it more naturally in sport mode especially.
DISCLAIMER: Proceed at your own risk!!! It wasn’t easy, but it was free! >)
And just for fun… party on!
