Please Help with DIY 2005 V6 ATF Drain/Fill and Transmission Filter Change

HSS · Nov 22, 2011

Hey Guys!

I just bought a used '05 Accord with only 38,xxx miles on it and the transmission is shifting a little rough, so I have read through as many topics on here that I can find and I would like to change my transmission filter and do 3x3 drain and fill, I just wanted to post what I think I should do and have you guys look it over to make sure I'm not missing anything. I dont believe the ATF was ever changed nor the filter so I assume now is as good a time as any. Thanks in advance for the help!! :notworthy::thumbsup:

Basic Instructions: (Are these accurate?)

Filter Change:

Step 1 - Remove the airbox to locate the transmission filter underneath.
Step 2 - Unbolt tranny filter housing
Step 3 - Replace filter as well as O-ring, filter gasket and the crush washer on drain plug.
Step 4 - Reassemble everything properly... (hopefully)

Drain/ Fill:

Step 1 - Heat up engine by driving around for few minutes
Step 2 - Remove drain bolt, drain approx 3 qts.
Step 3 - Replace drain bolt and refill.
Step 4 - Drive Car making sure to shift all gear to thoroughly mix ATF
Step 5 - Repeat steps 2 -4 3 times and replace the crush washer (PN 90471-PX4-000) on drain bolt after final drain...

My Questions

1. Is replacing the transmission filter easy enough for a novice to do??? Removing the Air Filter Box to get to the tranny filter seems like a pretty big job, or is it better that I just buy all the parts and pay my "mobile mechanic" to do the work??

2. At what stage of the 3x drain/fill process should you change the transmission filter?? Before, After, or During??

3. From what I have read, I have decided to go with Redline D4 ATF, price is steep but not that much more than DW-1. Good idea??

4. Is there anything wrong with filling the ATF through the dipstick hole on the V6? I read that the V6 has a fill hole but supposedly filling through dipstick is easier. Is this ok to do?

5. Here is the Parts list that I came up with (besides for tools needed) am I missing anything?? Are those the correct part numbers?

Parts Needed for filter change (from here)

25450-RAY-003 Element ATF
91301-RAY-004 O-RING (48.5X2.95) (ARAI)
91302-RAY-003 FILTER, GASKET
94109-12000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM)

Parts Needed for ATF Drain/Fill:

90471-PX4-000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM) - Crush Washer
Approx 10-12 qts of ATF (Redline D4 in my case)
Funnel with Hose Attachment to fill through Dipstick hole

Any comments or advice is much appreciated!!! Thanks!!!

t-rd · Nov 22, 2011

That's a lot of questions damn.

1. Removing the airbox is easy. Unscrew the 4 screws on top of the airbox, bend and lift it past the edge of the fender. Remove the filter. Unclamp and remove the breather pipes. Unscrew the clamp that secures the intake hose to the throttle body. Pull out and up. Remove the bottom portion of the airbox by unbolting a couple screws maybe? You'll have to uncouple it from the air resonator box.

2. I changed the filter before the drain/fill

3. I'd go with DW-1

4. Nothing wrong with filling it through the dipstick hole, but can you find a filler with that size hose?? That's the question, I couldn't find one. The filler cap isn't that hard to unscrew if you have a long extension and a 18" breaker bar. Also filling 3 quarts through that hole will take a while.

5. can't comment on this, if you got it through the thread then it's good. Just verify them on www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

rhulsey1 · Nov 22, 2011

like t-rd was saying, the airbox is pretty easy to remove. I always refilled my 03 through the dipstick hole, but it did take awhile. I too wouldn't use anything other than Honda ATF. I had a bad experience with redline ATF in my old Honda. It has to do with the viscosity of the fluids. Many are much too thick, and can cause damage to your transmission. In my experience, Honda fluids will always do just fine. As for the part's, it seems you've got everything you need. If your feeling unsure of how to do this properly, I would have your mechanic come and do it for you the first time but watch him do it because it isn't difficult. Good luck :thmsup:

SatinSilver · Nov 22, 2011

Good advice above. The only thing I would do differently is change the filter at the very end. Per the advice by one of the experts on here Fredsvt who works on these cars for a living.

t-rd · Nov 22, 2011

The only reason I changed the filter in the beginning is because you lose some fluid when you open up the line to take the filter cap off. I suppose it is good practice to change it at the end because you don't run the dirty fluid back through the new filter.

namegoeshere · Nov 22, 2011

Too bad this page is dead: http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/AutoFilterPage.html

Had some pretty good info and pics to help with changing the filter.

Luckily, I saved the web page.

t-rd · Nov 22, 2011

Now just a few tips here:

- line the floor under the transmission with paper towels or an oil pan because some transmission fluid will flow out and you'll be cleaning up a mess if you don't during the filter change.

- remove that short ground cable by the filter housing. You'll have more room to turn your wrench with that cable removed. Just don't forget to put it back.

HSS · Nov 23, 2011

WOW!!! Thanks to all for all the great advice on here!!! I thought I had subscribed to this thread and was kinda sad that noone had replied yet (or so I thought since i didnt get any emails) but was SO HAPPY when i checked it and saw all these great responses!!! Thanks!!!

HSS

HSS · Nov 23, 2011

namegoeshere said:
Too bad this page is dead: http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/AutoFilterPage.html

Had some pretty good info and pics to help with changing the filter.

Luckily, I saved the web page....

Thanks so much for this!! I did see that page referenced in some other threads but since it was dead i thought that it was lost to me for good...

HSS

Arkainzeye · Dec 12, 2011

i cant get over how EASY it is to change the transmission fluid on a v6 accord! this is my 3rd fluid change. i used OEM honda fluid and a replacement drain plug gasket and eveything came to just over $28. i consider that pretty cheap.

HSS · Dec 19, 2011

namegoeshere said:
Too bad this page is dead: http://www.brisdance.com/Honda/AutoFilterPage.html

Had some pretty good info and pics to help with changing the filter.

Luckily, I saved the web page.
...

Thanks namegoeshere, if anyone needs I formatted those pics into a PDF which is more easily printed, see here

HSS

njzhitman88 · Jul 8, 2012

Thanks HSS that pdf helped out a lot, gunna begin changing filter every 30,000 miles now, currently at 54,000 on my 06 LX v6.

StinkyTofu · Dec 25, 2013

I'm having a hard time removing that banjo bolt for the ATF filter. I've tried a few different sized box end wrenches (17, 18, 19 mm) and sprayed a bunch of CRC freeze off on it too, but it wont budge. I think I'm starting to strip the bolt too. Any one have the same problem or have any advice?

mc1114 · Dec 25, 2013

That bolt is usually not problematic. Its been so long since I did that, I dont remember the exact size

Try a 6-point socket if it'll fit, for less chance of rounding off the head

2006accord4 · Dec 25, 2013

I'd order a new bolt if its starting to go already.

BLCKFLSH · Dec 25, 2013

StinkyTofu said:
I'm having a hard time removing that banjo bolt for the ATF filter. I've tried a few different sized box end wrenches (17, 18, 19 mm) and sprayed a bunch of CRC freeze off on it too, but it wont budge. I think I'm starting to strip the bolt too. Any one have the same problem or have any advice?

It will be difficult, with a wrench. Even with two wrenches locked together, you don't have much leverage on it. Using a breaker-bar, and maybe a pipe over the handle, will help with leverage. At this point you want to make sure you are using the correct size socket (pretty sure it's 17mm), with just six points, if not an impact socket. If the bolt head is slightly stripped, you might have to tap the socket onto the bolt. Make sure you are turning the bolt in the right direction, counterclockwise. If you are doing this from above, under the hood (handle of tool pointing up), push/pull the wrench/breaker-bar toward the front bumper. Good luck

andrewg · Dec 27, 2013

The head on that bolt is not very thick and I have found it very easy to round off with my cheap shiny wrenches, and have had much better luck with my 35 year old made-in-the-USA wrenches. Maybe try a better quality wrench, such as Snap-On? Yes it is 17mm. I never tried a socket here (ground strap in the way?), but it is easier to apply torque at the right angle with a wrench. And as advised, do replace the bolt.

alseph · Dec 27, 2013

I am also going to be doing what you are doing too (just waiting for the fluid to arrive). All the info on this forum has been really helpful. On top of the filter change and 3x fluid drain/fill, I'm also gonna replace the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switch. Hopefully everything goes smoothly.

2i2dk1ny2i3 · Apr 1, 2015

sry to bring back an old thread but theres good info in here and not a real answer or what happened to the guy w/the partially or fully stripped Banjo Bolt

the Bolt i'm having probs with is worse the 1 or 3 bolts holding the ATF Filter in. the Cap's bottom 10 MM bolt

i even tried buying a special socket set to no avail

will report back if/when i can get this fixed

Don K · Apr 1, 2015

Think I used a small wrench for that or a thin walled socket and an extension.
Geez it was only 2 weeks ago.How quickly I forget

Please Help with DIY 2005 V6 ATF Drain/Fill and Transmission Filter Change

HSS

t-rd

rhulsey1

SatinSilver

t-rd

namegoeshere

t-rd

HSS

HSS

Arkainzeye

HSS

njzhitman88

StinkyTofu

mc1114

2006accord4

BLCKFLSH

andrewg

alseph

2i2dk1ny2i3

Don K

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