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princess

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includes coupe bumper
 

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OK, I did a google search and found this

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c2091_ds39251

Never done it before but I found this info in a Honda Accord users forum.

"After much research, and little info on "how-to", I replaced both stock 9006 low-beam bulbs on my 2004 Accord. Despite much info on removing fenderwell splash shields, I was able to open the hood, and reach the passenger side harness, remove plug, twist and remove bulb and reinstall- no problem. Driver's side required removing the battery, but same procedure. No problems, no cuts or bruises. Owners manual is unclear, Hayes 2003-05 Honda Accord repair manual is wrong, and the dealer charges $29.95 per bulb installed. Took me 10 minutes. Tried to save the radio settings with a 9V battery in the power plug (memory-saver) but that didn't work."

Good luck.
Good post... I just did this myself on the passenger-side low beam bulb and DID NOT go through the wheel well.

Steps I took:

- Get a right-angle ratcheting screwdriver so you can loosen the three screws securing the bulb in place. Search Amazon for "Lisle 64250" and you'll see what I bought, it's around $15.

- With the help of the ratcheting screwdriver to just do an initial loosening of the screw, carefully unscrew (by hand) and remove the screw closest to you, and the screw at the top of the "screw pyramid"... the screw closest to the hood. For the third (the one on the other side of the bulb from you) just loosen it a couple of turns. No need to remove it as that would be the hardest to put back in place later. Just loosen enough so the bulb can be turned and removed from the housing. Be careful not to drop screws into the well as they will be hard to find.

- You'll need two hands in there, but unplug the old light from the power harness. Do this by squeezing the harness near the wire end... this will lift the plastic tab that holds the bulb in the harness and allow you to unplug it.

- Put new bulb in the housing. Once it is in, with the same hand you should be able to hold the bulb in place while you tighten the screw you left in there. That should hold the bulb in place fairly well to get the other two screws in place. As others suggested I didn't touch the bulb but also didn't run into a point where I felt I had to. I handled it from the plastic end.

- Once the holding screws are in, plug in the power harness to the new bulb. It should click right into place. You're done.

The whole process took just a few minutes... you'll want to do it with plenty of light available. When I first looked this over it was at night in my garage and it looked harder than it was. In the daylight with no weird shadows it was a no-brainer, and going in through the well wasn't necessary at all (unless maybe if you fumble-finger one of the screws and have to find it. Telescoping magnet would hopefully help in recovering).
I might try this tomorrow, if I can find a right angle ratcheting screwdriver.
 
bump. my headlight is out.

Do you REALLY have to remove the bumper?? :(
If you are only replacing the headlight bulb, then you don't.

This thread is for "headlight" removal, not "headlight bulb" removal.
 
OK, I did a google search and found this

http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-c2091_ds39251





I might try this tomorrow, if I can find a right angle ratcheting screwdriver.
I'd guess you have replaced your light bulb by now, but... You do not need a screwdriver to loosen the three Phillips screws. Just unplug the electrical connection and then twist and pull the bulb out, no screw loosening required at all!
:thmsup:
 
I'd guess you have replaced your light bulb by now, but... You do not need a screwdriver to loosen the three Phillips screws. Just unplug the electrical connection and then twist and pull the bulb out, no screw loosening required at all!
:thmsup:
well, this is good to know since now, my drivers side bulb went out. So I'll be repeating this process, except on the hard side now :lmao:

When you posted this, I had already changed the passenger side bulb. I ended up loosening the screws, and the headlight wasn't "sticking" in place until I tightened the screws enough to hold it in. This time, I'll try your "twist and pull" technique. Of course it looks like the battery will need to be removed for the drivers side (unless I go through the wheel well)

thanks for the tip :thmsup:
 
Of course it looks like the battery will need to be removed for the drivers side (unless I go through the wheel well)
No need to remove the battery, unless you have really big hands/arms. I rarely loosen the three screws unless I can't get the bulb back in. It's usually not a problem getting the bulb out.
 
well, this is good to know since now, my drivers side bulb went out. So I'll be repeating this process, except on the hard side now :lmao:

When you posted this, I had already changed the passenger side bulb. I ended up loosening the screws, and the headlight wasn't "sticking" in place until I tightened the screws enough to hold it in. This time, I'll try your "twist and pull" technique. Of course it looks like the battery will need to be removed for the drivers side (unless I go through the wheel well)

thanks for the tip :thmsup:
I pulled my battery.

Loosen up nuts on the "J" hook battery hold down bolts, (Or are they "L" Hooks??), no need to remove the nuts, just unhook the bolts from the base.

Loosen the battery terminal nuts, remove terminals, and pull the battery.

I took the opportunity to clean up the battery as well as the terminals.

With my big hands removing the battery was the only option that made sense...

The headlight burned out in Lubbock, Texas while visiting family there. I was in a hurry to get it fixed before starting my return trip to California...

Turned out I did not use the headlights at all during the entire trip home! First leg of my trip was from Lubbock to Kingman with one gas/lunch stop and one leg strech break in bewteen! 800 miles in about 13 hours total... Pulled into the Motel well before Sunset.
 
I used the instructions on this forum to replace my front bumper yesterday. I thought I should document my experience for the benefit of others.

I got the bumper (painted) off ebay for $190 from aircardcorp

First off, the clips that hold the bumper together are extremely brittle (mines an 03) so get spares from ebay. Just search for part# 91503-SZ3-003.
FYI, I got the part# here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...CCORD&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=2DR+EX+(V6)&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=BUMPERS+(-+05)

Second, the bottom screws were COMPLETELY rusted to the point that WD-40 wouldn't work, so I cut the old bumper off the fenders and then used the extra workspace to break them off.

After installing the new bumper I used clips in place of the screws. It seems to work out fine since they weren't load bearing screws anyway.

Hope this helps someone out there.
 
I used the instructions on this forum to replace my front bumper yesterday. I thought I should document my experience for the benefit of others.

I got the bumper (painted) off ebay for $190 from aircardcorp

First off, the clips that hold the bumper together are extremely brittle (mines an 03) so get spares from ebay. Just search for part# 91503-SZ3-003.
FYI, I got the part# here:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...CCORD&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=2DR+EX+(V6)&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=BUMPERS+(-+05)

Second, the bottom screws were COMPLETELY rusted to the point that WD-40 wouldn't work, so I cut the old bumper off the fenders and then used the extra workspace to break them off.

After installing the new bumper I used clips in place of the screws. It seems to work out fine since they weren't load bearing screws anyway.

Hope this helps someone out there.
hmmm looks like that was the site suggest by BadCo. on a different thread. which is here. http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=48950.
hell yeah instructions are already provided! looks like no questions for now. site already given then instructions already here!
 
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