[Honda2014]

Well, as the title says, I'm at about 90k miles and going to hit 100k miles soon. So, I'm looking to come up with a list of items needed to be replaced and / or, at least inspected by the time it reaches that milestone. Given how much I've driven over the last two decades, believe it or not, this will be the first time I'll cross the 100k mile mark with one of my cars. The first time when I was about to do it in my first Accord, it got totaled right around 99k :/ Anyways, this is pretty exciting stuff for me. I've come up with a list of what should be done at the 100k mark based on my experience with Hondas and what I've learned from other members here. Please feel free to chime in if you think I've missed something important or there's something else you'd do at this mileage. Here it is:

Replace Engine Air Filter
Replace/inspect Cabin Air Filter
Replace all Spark Plugs (with OEM spark plugs)
3x drain and fill ATF (with 2.0t Honda ATF) - I'll probably get it done soon, but definitely before/by 100k.
Flush coolant (with OEM Honda coolant) - don't recall it was ever done
Replace all 4 rotors (possibly with Honda ones) and brake pads
Replace / flush brake fluid
Inspect / replace outer tie rod (recommended by a forum member here)

Am I missing something? Feel free to share other ideas / add to the list! Thanks!

 

[14v6]

I bet you're happy there's no Timing Belt or Valve adjustment on the list. I'd double check manual to be sure that you list has it all covered.
I've rarely gone past 10 years 100k mostly because here in upstate NY, rust takes its toll or I don't feel like investing in a timing belt job on a car that I'm not going to keep past 10 years.

Regarding the brakes and you're not necessarily there yet since your Accord is 5 years old but there comes a time when replacing calipers is a consideration. Before I felt confident enough to change pads and rotors myself, It got rather expensive to have pads and rotors replaced only to have a caliper lock up requiring the pads and rotors to be replaced again. So if done by a shop that was two brake jobs and calipers in a short amount of time. If you're doing the work yourself then you save on all that labor. You've made it 5 years 100k on so far on a original calipers, do you think that you will make it on the original set of calipers for your ownership term? Just something to think about. If you plan on going another 5 years 100k, I'd probably replace them or go as long as you can on your current set. You're not going to hurt anything if you stretch it as you'd have to replace the calipers and rotors anyway when you hit metal to metal contact.

As for new rotors, I've found the OEM ones to be the slowest to rust compared to the ones that the dealer gives (yeah dealer didn't use OEM Honda rotors in my case). If you got 100k on the Honda parts why switch to something else? During COVID OEM stuff was comparable in price to what the local parts store was charging, so be I'd check what the actuals are today.

Maybe a drive belt, EDPM rubber lasts a long time but 100k is a lot of miles. Possibly a tensioner if that's a theme for the 10th gen.

Tires, how are those working out. I guess you're long in the tooth on your second set?

I don't think there's much else to be pre-emptive about, just regular maintenance.

Happy motoring.


I don't see tie rods as a pre-emptive thing. There not a direct function of time or mileage but more about road conditions. I'd have them checked or if you're going to have things like halfshafts or struts replaced then it's a case of the good old "you might as well"

 

[Accord-Boomer]

The brake pads should be able to go 200k miles or close to it so I would just inspect those. Same with rotors, if braking is good don't replace, just inspect and maybe lube if squeeling.

 

[WiiMaster]

I wouldn't just straight up replace the pads and rotors. If they're worn, sure. But my Odyssey, a much heavier vehicle, is still on original rotors at 111k and original rear pads. You can often go quite some time on them.

Use OE brand spark plugs, but I don't think you need OEM plugs from the dealer. Good set of NGKs or Densos should work fine.

 

[Inspire2.4]

Replace Engine Air Filter
- Should be done by maintenance minder or by regular check

Replace/inspect Cabin Air Filter
- Same as above

Replace all Spark Plugs (with OEM spark plugs)
- Yes

3x drain and fill ATF (with 2.0t Honda ATF) - I'll probably get it done soon, but definitely before/by 100k.
- Yes. I think people suggest more often because you can only get to a portion of it at a time.

Flush coolant (with OEM Honda coolant) - don't recall it was ever done
- Yes. If anything like previous Hondas, it's 50k thereafter.

Replace all 4 rotors (possibly with Honda ones) and brake pads
- No. This is a usage based item. Just change when they squeal. But it's a good idea to just lube the sliding pins. And even the Gucciest of the Gucci iron rotor surface WILL rust if left sitting. Unless you go carbon ceramic.

Replace / flush brake fluid
- This has nothing to do with mileage. Should be done every 3-4 years but I know people in FL who never do this and their ABS module is fine....

Inspect / replace outer tie rod (recommended by a forum member here)
- Inspect yes, replace if only needed. My 07 TL was on its original tie rods at 215k when sold, 8th gen at 95k, and now here.
One "special" thing I do is I turn steering only when the car is rolling even in tight parking lots and don't hit full lock left or right. And when there's a bump/dip I know my front wheels are going to hit at speed, I straighten out for a moment, if safe to do so.

And obligatory:

You'll probably see a "4" in your first message after 100k lol. Valve clearance.

 

[Honda2014]

but there comes a time when replacing calipers is a consideration

I didn't know replacing calipers was actually required. I thought those were supposed to last the life of the car?
Never knew this was a thing. But then, I didn't really keep my cars a long time after my 7G before getting into the 10G.

The brake pads should be able to go 200k miles or close to it so I would just inspect those. Same with rotors, if braking is good don't replace, just inspect and maybe lube if squeeling.

I wouldn't just straight up replace the pads and rotors. If they're worn, sure.

Yep. I'll probably have my mechanic look into those to see what exactly needs to be done. The reason I'm thinking about replacing them all is, well, it seems like every time I go to a dealer they seem to like want to replace the pads, resurface the rotors, brake fluid flush or a combination of the three. I don't exactly recall what's done or not without looking at the receipts, so just thought to replace everything. You know, kinda resetting the baseline kind of thing. So if I visit dealers again in the next 2 years, I can just ignore their "advice" without having to worry about it.

Also, don't know if anyone remembers (I posted it on 10G forum somewhere before), but I had premature brake wear at around 11k. It was finally "fixed" under warranty at around 16k mile mark, but I doubt the rotors were actually replaced, so I think it's actually about time. No squealing. Will lube for sure.

 

[Honda2014]

I bet you're happy there's no Timing Belt or Valve adjustment on the list. I'd double check manual to be sure that you list has it all covered.
I've rarely gone past 10 years 100k mostly because here in upstate NY, rust takes its toll or I don't feel like investing in a timing belt job on a car that I'm not going to keep past 10 years.

Regarding the brakes and you're not necessarily there yet since your Accord is 5 years old but there comes a time when replacing calipers is a consideration. Before I felt confident enough to change pads and rotors myself, It got rather expensive to have pads and rotors replaced only to have a caliper lock up requiring the pads and rotors to be replaced again. So if done by a shop that was two brake jobs and calipers in a short amount of time. If you're doing the work yourself then you save on all that labor. You've made it 5 years 100k on so far on a original calipers, do you think that you will make it on the original set of calipers for your ownership term? Just something to think about. If you plan on going another 5 years 100k, I'd probably replace them or go as long as you can on your current set. You're not going to hurt anything if you stretch it as you'd have to replace the calipers and rotors anyway when you hit metal to metal contact.

As for new rotors, I've found the OEM ones to be the slowest to rust compared to the ones that the dealer gives (yeah dealer didn't use OEM Honda rotors in my case). If you got 100k on the Honda parts why switch to something else? During COVID OEM stuff was comparable in price to what the local parts store was charging, so be I'd check what the actuals are today.

Maybe a drive belt, EDPM rubber lasts a long time but 100k is a lot of miles. Possibly a tensioner if that's a theme for the 10th gen.

Tires, how are those working out. I guess you're long in the tooth on your second set?

I don't think there's much else to be pre-emptive about, just regular maintenance.

Happy motoring.


I don't see tie rods as a pre-emptive thing. There not a direct function of time or mileage but more about road conditions. I'd have them checked or if you're going to have things like halfshafts or struts replaced then it's a case of the good old "you might as well"

Absolutely! I personally don't mind the timing belt that much if i'm going to keep the car long term (somewhat), like 100k miles, but it's definitely a plus that I don't have to worry about it with this car. Between possible head gasket failure and timing belt, it's going to drive me nuts if I'd have to tackle both at the same time lol

Oh, there's a reason that I'm thinking about replacing all brake rotors / pads. I hate wasting and inefficiency, so I wouldn't do that if there's zero reason to do it. I'm not quite there with my skills and tools (no lift), so I'll have my mechanic do it. I probably won't visit the dealers for all these, I'm probably looking at 1k minimum just doing the brakes alone at the dealer. I'm sure the rest altogether is going to cost me an arm and a leg. Not gonna do it. My trusty indie mechanic is the way to go. Good call on the parts. I was debating if I should try something else, but think I'm going to stick with OEM like you suggested.

My tires are fine. It's actually my third set. I had one set stolen a few years ago with about 23k on it. I just replaced the second set at about 75k or something like that. So, it's got at least a couple years more to go (60k mile warranty).

Ok. Drive belt and tensioner. Forgot those two. Will get them checked out as well.

Many thanks for the detailed post!

 

[14v6]

Calipers could last the life of the car. I think that if you live in a rusty area and a pad(s) seize in the caliper bracket that can't be healthy for the caliper. Also, when it comes to the Honda required brake fluid change every 3 years, I think there's a lot of dishonesty there. I think there are some techs that simply vacuum the fluid from the brake master cylinder and call it a day. The proper way to do it is to break the bleeders loose and push the old fluid out of the caliper. This gets the sediment out of there and clean fresh fluid in the caliper. Remember, brake fluid doesn't circulate so clean fluid in the master cylinder which you see won't do anything for your calipeer. I've changed pads and rotors a couple of times now but I'm wary of opening a hydraulic system. In all fairness, why would a mechanic risk snaping a rusty bleeder and be on the hook for a caliper when they simply vacuum the master cylinder reservoir. Just a theory. If I think a caliper is seizing I use one of those infrared temp guns and take a reading at each wheel. It'll become obvious if there is an issue.

Since you have an honest mechanic, I'd do whatever he says.

 

[Honda2014]

Calipers could last the life of the car. I think that if you live in a rusty area and a pad(s) seize in the caliper bracket that can't be healthy for the caliper. Also, when it comes to the Honda required brake fluid change every 3 years, I think there's a lot of dishonesty there. I think there are some techs that simply vacuum the fluid from the brake master cylinder and call it a day. The proper way to do it is to break the bleeders loose and push the old fluid out of the caliper. This gets the sediment out of there and clean fresh fluid in the caliper. Remember, brake fluid doesn't circulate so clean fluid in the master cylinder which you see won't do anything for your calipeer. I've changed pads and rotors a couple of times now but I'm wary of opening a hydraulic system. In all fairness, why would a mechanic risk snaping a rusty bleeder and be on the hook for a caliper when they simply vacuum the master cylinder reservoir. Just a theory. If I think a caliper is seizing I use one of those infrared temp guns and take a reading at each wheel. It'll become obvious if there is an issue.

Since you have an honest mechanic, I'd do whatever he says.

Good info there.

I'm not sure exactly what's going on. But there's no consistent squealing, nor is there significant reduction in braking performance. Other than the premature wear I mentioned above, and the constant "recommendations" from the dealers.... it seems to be just making some noises here and there. I think it's more so weather dependent too. Anyways, I'll have my mechanic look at it, and if necessary, I'll just replace the whole thing lol. It's going to be a heck of a lot cheaper than at the dealers anyways.

 

[14v6]

Good info there.

I'm not sure exactly what's going on. But there's no consistent squealing, nor is there significant reduction in braking performance. Other than the premature wear I mentioned above, and the constant "recommendations" from the dealers.... it seems to be just making some noises here and there. I think it's more so weather dependent too. Anyways, I'll have my mechanic look at it, and if necessary, I'll just replace the whole thing lol. It's going to be a heck of a lot cheaper than at the dealers anyways.

Do you live in an area where the salt the roads? Do you watch the Car Care Nut. He's mostly Toyota but has some good universal information IMO. I you trust your mechanic to flush the brake fluid through the calipers that's probably money well spent.

I'm not sure what you mean my premature wear, I mean you have a 2.0t. However, if you have uneven wear (one pad is worn more than the other on the same caliper) that requires investigation.

 

[Honda2014]

Do you live in an area where the salt the roads? Do you watch the Car Care Nut. He's mostly Toyota but has some good universal information IMO. I you trust your mechanic to flush the brake fluid through the calipers that's probably money well spent.

I'm not sure what you mean my premature wear, I mean you have a 2.0t. However, if you have uneven wear (one pad is worn more than the other on the same caliper) that requires investigation.

Yep. Sometimes they do during the winter, but not much compared to upstate NY I'd think. Our winter here is like 3 serious days of snow in general each year, haha. Just the way I like it. I don't watch Car Care Nut often, but yeah, i've seen a few of his videos when I was deciding on my second car just a few months ago. He seems like a big Toyota / Lexus fan lol. I'll look to check him out more.

I do trust my mechanic. He's been awesome (with work and pricing). My mother had all her brakes replaced by him three years+ ago. They're still working great today. Only thing we've done brake related all this time was a brake fluid flush.

As far as premature wear I meant the issues I had back when I just got the car. In less than a year, at about t 11k, I visited my dealer with brake fade / abnormal squeaking. I was turned away (was told everything was normal.... yeah right) only for the problem to continue and worsen so I returned at 16k mile. Thankfully, I was covered under warranty after demanding to see the service manager. I'd say it probably had to do with me having a bit too much fun with the 2.0t lol, but still, I had other higher power fast sedans too (AV6, TL) and they never wore out that fast. I dunno. I guess I'll figure out soon.