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sblennis

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
When coming to a stop it will downshift into 1 hard before stopping, and taking off it will rev higher than it needs to and slams into gear. It seems to be having this problem only in 1 and 2 gear, but 3 and 4 seem to be fine when it shifts into them. I have been to a transmission shop and they said it seemed fine and did a flush. Didn't help and i am now in the same situation. Now they're saying that its a solenoid or something rather. I don't know what they mean by this, or if it will work or not, but if anyone has add this similar problem and had it fixed, i would greatly appreciate the help. thanks
 
When coming to a stop it will downshift into 1 hard before stopping, and taking off it will rev higher than it needs to and slams into gear. It seems to be having this problem only in 1 and 2 gear, but 3 and 4 seem to be fine when it shifts into them. I have been to a transmission shop and they said it seemed fine and did a flush. Didn't help and i am now in the same situation. Now they're saying that its a solenoid or something rather. I don't know what they mean by this, or if it will work or not, but if anyone has add this similar problem and had it fixed, i would greatly appreciate the help. thanks
Since no one has responded, maybe cause there are so many trans threads...

Mine was doing the same thing, it eased somewhat after I drained the trans and refilled it. Some months later, after it would heat up it would downshift while driving into 2nd. 1st and 2nd worked, but while it was hot it wouldn't go into D3 or D4.

I don't know what kind of flush they did, if they used any cleaning solvent or not. What I did is purchase and us SeaFoam Trans Tune. So far my trans is operating better than it was. The other item I've been advised to check is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Haven't done that yet...

I don't know if this would work for you and I'm not suggesting you try it, I'm just saying what I've done.
 
When coming to a stop it will downshift into 1 hard before stopping, and taking off it will rev higher than it needs to and slams into gear. It seems to be having this problem only in 1 and 2 gear, but 3 and 4 seem to be fine when it shifts into them. I have been to a transmission shop and they said it seemed fine and did a flush. Didn't help and i am now in the same situation. Now they're saying that its a solenoid or something rather. I don't know what they mean by this, or if it will work or not, but if anyone has add this similar problem and had it fixed, i would greatly appreciate the help. thanks
Do you know what transmission fluid they flushed/refilled it with? Our tranny's are very tempermental and only like certain fluids. I would stick with a Honda brand fluid like Honda Z-1 or DW-1. There is a member here that uses Valvoline Maxlife with no problem.
 
Do you know what transmission fluid they flushed/refilled it with? Our tranny's are very tempermental and only like certain fluids. I would stick with a Honda brand fluid like Honda Z-1 or DW-1. There is a member here that uses Valvoline Maxlife with no problem.
there are several actually.

Other known compatible Z-1 fluids are AmsOil, Mobil1 ATF, RoyalPurple, and RedLine D4.

I'm sure that there are other brands out there that work, but those are the ones people have been mentioning in other transmission threads.
 
owns 2000 Honda Accord EX
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Hey guys sorry i havent replied. No one replied so i didnt pay much attention. But im not sure what trans oil they used but i can find out. And mine does it when it heats up as well but it seems opposite since mine is 1 and 2 that it has trouble with. Thank you guys for the help by the way, i really appreciate it
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I'm supposed to take it in today and theyre gonna check a sylenoid or something, since to them it sounds like its sticking which seems appropriate. I'll see what they say and how long its gonna take and go from there
 
cool. let us know what they say.
 
owns 2000 Honda Accord EX
Discussion starter · #8 ·
So i am just getting it back tonight, and apparently they didnt switch out the sylenoids because they're saying its an egr code that is causing it. So in order to fix it, we need to find out what is causing that code to come on. I dont know what the code is or anything, but if you guys have anything on codes that can cause this, i would appreciate it.
 
owns 2000 Honda Accord EX
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Hey checked out that thread, but none of them specify anything. But i have the mdII code reader, and i cleared the check engine lights whenever it came on, and the car ran great today. Although one time i tried to see what would happen if i revved it up, and it studdered a bit but nothing like before. I guess my best bet is to let the codes go off and see which of these would cause this kind of trouble? idk what would you suggest?
 
Same problem.... About to start a complete rebuild today

Accord Guys,
I'm new to this forum with this being my first post here ever.

I stumbled across this thread and my daughter's car is having exactly the same problems. A few months ago we started having problems with the '99 (LX - Auto). Honestly, I had not taken proper care of the fluid in this vehicle. I performed a thorough flush and the car worked PERFECTLY for the last 3 months.

Last week, it started shifting EXACTLY as the initiator of this post described. I replaced ALL of the solenoids and the car ran well for the week. When replaced, I noticed the screens in the lock-up solenoids were clogged with crud. I assume this "CRUD" is disk material.

Today, it's acting the same again. Once it gets hot, it shifts very hard and slips.

I purchased a complete rebuild kit from RockAuto which contains all the plates, fibers, gaskets, seals etc. I have rebuild successfully several GM TH-350's and TH-400's. However, I have NEVER touched the internals of one of these. It seems likely the internals of this '99 are toast? It has 250k on the odometer and has been rode hard and put up wet....

Any additional advice? Anyone pull one of these apart at home? Any specifics to watch for? I do NOT have any good documentation of the inside of this tranny....Got some?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Kboehringer
Peachtree City Georgia

'97 4-Door EX (Standard 4-Cyl Vtec)
'99 4-Door LX (Auto - 4-Cyl - Vtec)
'04 4-Door EX-L (Standard 4-Cyl) -TOTALLED by Son
'07 4-Door EX-L (Standard 4-Cyl Vtec)
'12 4-Door LX (Standard 4-Cyl Vtec)
 
Accord Guys,
I'm new to this forum with this being my first post here ever.

I stumbled across this thread and my daughter's car is having exactly the same problems. A few months ago we started having problems with the '99 (LX - Auto). Honestly, I had not taken proper care of the fluid in this vehicle. I performed a thorough flush and the car worked PERFECTLY for the last 3 months.

Last week, it started shifting EXACTLY as the initiator of this post described. I replaced ALL of the solenoids and the car ran well for the week. When replaced, I noticed the screens in the lock-up solenoids were clogged with crud. I assume this "CRUD" is disk material.

Today, it's acting the same again. Once it gets hot, it shifts very hard and slips.

I purchased a complete rebuild kit from RockAuto which contains all the plates, fibers, gaskets, seals etc. I have rebuild successfully several GM TH-350's and TH-400's. However, I have NEVER touched the internals of one of these. It seems likely the internals of this '99 are toast? It has 250k on the odometer and has been rode hard and put up wet....

Any additional advice? Anyone pull one of these apart at home? Any specifics to watch for? I do NOT have any good documentation of the inside of this tranny....Got some?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Kboehringer
Peachtree City Georgia

'97 4-Door EX (Standard 4-Cyl Vtec)
'99 4-Door LX (Auto - 4-Cyl - Vtec)
'04 4-Door EX-L (Standard 4-Cyl) -TOTALLED by Son
'07 4-Door EX-L (Standard 4-Cyl Vtec)
'12 4-Door LX (Standard 4-Cyl Vtec)
Did you only perform 1 drain & refill? If so, that is not enough. In order to get most of the old fluid out, you need to perform 4 drain & refills. Do 1, drive around for a few miles, do another one, drive around for a few miles, etc. Not all the tranny fluid will come out the first time (as there is fluid in the transmission itself that you won't be able to access). I would try that before you start rebuilding the tranny.

As far as rebuilding the tranny, I have no knowledge. Maybe someone who has ripped into one of these bad boys can give you some advice. If that's the route you take, good luck... I am sure it will be a bear to work on.
 
Pls house, the issue of vibration in d gear box when changing gears, do u think cleaning d filters on the gearbox can help? Anyway, In my 2002, I discovered there are about three different small filters. I have managed to loosen one of the three. I think there is an improvement. The other two re a bit tough to open. I am yet to get assistance and do the same cleaning on the filters. If anyone has gone thru dis process, pls i need to know. Thanks guys.

Sent from my GT-P3100 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
Hey everyone,

The 1998-2002 Accords were notorious for Transmission problems. You can do drain and refill's, even replace solenoids all day long if you want. The fact of the matter is, these transmissions were junk. They even created a "technical service bulletin" over them. They had extended the factory power train warranties for 2000 to 2002 models to 7 years or 109,000 miles. THIS WAS NOT A FORMAL RECALL AND WAS A CASE-BY-CASE deal. Just trying to help all of you out! As I was having problems with my transmission as well. I though maybe just a solenoid too. But in fact I needed to replace the entire transmission. I bought a fully rebuilt Honda Transmission with the full factory warranty of 3yrs./36,000mls. Honda also keeps records of every time a transmission has been replaced obviously and had told me that I was lucky i got the mileage out of the transmission I did! I got 181,000 miles out of it! And the new transmission was $2,600 after a returned $1,200 core for the old one and an employee discount... (Just for the part :/ I installed the tranny myself. Labor would have been an extra $1,000 if I wasn't a tech)
 
transmission

I have 98 accord the trans went out 2 weeks after I bought it. frm 98 - 02 Honda used a transmission called b7xa and they have had nthing but problems with it. your best bet is to replace the tranny I know this can be expensive but if yu go to the right shop it will be worth your mmoney. I have hd no problems since. best of luck to you
Chad
Hondas will run forever if you take care of them and preform the required maintenance.
 
I have a 98 accord 2.3. Just like many here I was having trans problems. I nursed it for 1 1/2 years and tried every low cost band-aid in existence... fluid changes x8, clean every part accessible on the outside, seafoam, Friktion Tek (worked for 2 months), lucas, trans fluid cooler, etc... Luckily, when it finally gave up the ghost it was in my driveway.

I looked back and estimated the cost of trying to find an easy fix, the cost of towing x2 when my wife drove it and the headaches of slamming into 2nd gear at 60mph. I once drove it over 50 miles on the shoulder of the highway, exits and entrances in 2nd gear. My guess is around 600-700, this includes all the honda fluid, junk yard parts, time spent....

I just purchased a low mileage import trans for 500, 300 to get it installed (that's being done today and tomorrow). I should have just replaced the trans last year... I crew I got the trans from (Orlando, FL) told me they sell more 98-2002 transmissions than any other import trans.

It seems to me that the question isn't what's a quick fix or how long will it last, it's how soon will it die....

I'm pretty sure that at some point this import trans will begin it's downward spiral as well. I will use the time I have to properly rebuild the other one...
 
Don't waste your time changing fluids, or paying for useless flushes. For Honda's flushing is not recommended anyway, just drain and fill. My 98 4 cyl accord trans failed on me while I was 20 miles from home, I was lucky and was able to limp back home in 1-2nd gears. Anyway, you face a tough choice. If you don't have any other major problems, then pay the dealer or if you have mechanical ability just get yourself a JDM transmission from ebay for 600 bucks and install it yourself. Dealers are charging around $2700. I replaced it myself, it was not too bad, the only "issue" I have it my speedo is off with respect to ground speed, due to different gear ratios....meh...car runs like its 5 years old now...so part of me says oh well...but I would pay the dealer to have the ratio fixed if that was possible. I called the dealer today and they said its not possible,,...but I don't if that guy knew 100%. I'm sure it is possible, its just software running in the ecu that has the wrong gear ratios.

lee19k
Once you get your car back, you are gonna love it. The JDM transmission are super smooth, I enjoy driving my 98 now that it doesn't adjust my back at every stop. The JDM will outlast your engine, just remember to drain and fill your trans fluid every 30k...and most importantly get yourself a trans cooler installed, they only cost like 30 bucks. Your trans is going to love you with the cooler.
 
I have a 98 v6 and am also having rough shifts in low gears, slamming gears, etc.

Until I read this post, I was planning to have a local shop re-build my transmission but now I am considering a JDM trans. Where can I order one from? Do they bolt on in place of the old one or what other parts do I need to complete the swap to a JDM xmsn.
 
I have a 98 v6 and am also having rough shifts in low gears, slamming gears, etc.

Until I read this post, I was planning to have a local shop re-build my transmission but now I am considering a JDM trans. Where can I order one from? Do they bolt on in place of the old one or what other parts do I need to complete the swap to a JDM xmsn.
Do you have a B7XA? If so I would get in touch with local JDM shop in your area and see if they can hook you up. I found my on ebay, but it was local to me so I went to pick it up myself. The guys were real cool so they gave me one that was in near brand new condition, I mean the machine had no rust or corrosion on the body. The trans was still attached to the engine, they unbolted it and drained it in front of me, when I saw the red cherry fluid I was all smiles. But if you decide to do this yourself, get yourself a transmission jack and good safe jacks, and power tools to help you.
 
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