[mkhaderm]

Hello Fellow members,

I am about to change the trasmission fluid and would like to clarify a few things here.

Little bit of history here to understand my scenario. When I bought this car new, I then knew nothing about cars and didn't know what's the interval to change it. But I kept asking my mechanic back then when to change and he kept saying fluid is ok until 62k. We drained and filled first time at 62k. Roughly from 80k to 100k mileage, I had stuttering in the transmission between 20 to 35 mph speeds that needed an extra rpm to go smooth. So, at 105k mileage, I changed the fluid second time. The stuttering almost vanished from 80% to 5% and then went to nil. Now It's at 139k, I see the stuttering popping up 5 to 10% of the times. I just learned the interval is every 30k miles somewhere and don't remember to have noticed mentioning about it in the manual nor in maintenance minder alerts.

Here is my question to clarify:

1) I checked the oil through dipstick and it is not dark, somewhat reddish. If I had changed in the regular intervals at every 30k, It would have gone through 4 drain and fill already and be nearing 5th at 150k. However as I mentioned, I have only done two times in the past. Since I have missed the intervals in the past, Should I drain and fill twice or thrice at the current mileage 139k?

2) Should we have to have that plastic cover that covers the transmission always? What is that for? Is it to be Aerodynamic? Can I remove that cover permanently or Has anyone created a bigger hole by removing the platstic off near drain plug to change fluid without removing that entire plastic cover every time? Any thoughts on that?

3) I am doing this fluid change first time myself. Appreciate it if you could share any do's and don'ts from your experience, if any

Thank you.

 

[97trophy]

ATF is cheap vs cost of tranny / rebuilds.

I would do a 3x ATF change. You can space them out one per week or per month. And thereafter one every 30k miles. Only a small % of the ATF comes out each drain.

Sorry that mechanic is wrong - that's seriously bad advice.

There's youtube videos on how to do this.

Unpopular opinion Maxlife ATF is better than OEM ATF. Buy from Walmart or Amazon.

 

[kdxyardsale]

It is hard to get a mileage interval to change because they all use this maintenance minder in the car, which I believe waits far too long, however every 30k seems excessive, I would say 40K is more reasonable, but if it is cheap it is good insurance. Where did you get it changed and what fluid did they use. Your changing symptoms seems like a fluid breakdown as it gets worse quick. I just go to the Honda dealer. These cars are picky on fluid types, I wrench most my other jobs. Cheap insurance for an expensive transmission. I just rolled to 100K and the car drives like new. In my 2000 Toyota truck they always put a bottle of Lubegard in the transmission fluid, many transmission shops use this, it lowers temps and wear. My truck has 150K and drives like new.

 

[a1smith]

On our Accord that's been driven enough to change the ATF a few times the MM told us to change ATF at 32k and 26k miles. That's the interval between the 3 ATF changes I've done.

The engine compartment lower cover is mostly for aero but also helps with engine warmup and protection of engine compartment. I did cut out a rectangular hole so that I could drain the ATF without removing it. Make sure you make the hole big enough so that when the ATF drains it clears the hole the entire time - towards the end of the drain the oil draining curves some towards the transmission case.

 

[KW2004Accord]

The MM for a trans. fluid change usually comes up at 40K+ as reported by many members, but sometimes it can come up earlier based on driving, etc.(if driven in hilly terrain, congestion or towing, half the change interval). The 30K change interval is what many members have found that works best for them. 44,66,83,92% (approx.) newer fluid with ea. d/f, which will get mixed up with the old worn out fluid. Some members have had success with using Lubegard "shudder fix" added to the fluid during a change. Change the fluid 4 times with driving in-between (100 miles) as that will give you a baseline to start. Change the in-line filter on the last change 2011 Honda Accord 4 Door EX KA 5AT Parts - HondaPartsNow.com.

 

[mkhaderm]

ATF is cheap vs cost of tranny / rebuilds.

I would do a 3x ATF change. You can space them out one per week or per month. And thereafter one every 30k miles. Only a small % of the ATF comes out each drain.

Sorry that mechanic is wrong - that's seriously bad advice.

There's youtube videos on how to do this.

Unpopular opinion Maxlife ATF is better than OEM ATF. Buy from Walmart or Amazon.

Thanks for the reply. I did the first time today. What I could watch from youtube, particularly scotty kilmer said that Anything that is related to Honda, be it a transmission fluid, coolant, steering oil or break oil, he recommends to use Honda brand, as he mentions it they are very delicate and designed specifically to use Honda oils. Have you been successful in using after-market brands? Did you mean Volvoline brand for Maxlife ATF?

 

[mkhaderm]

It is hard to get a mileage interval to change because they all use this maintenance minder in the car, which I believe waits far too long, however every 30k seems excessive, I would say 40K is more reasonable, but if it is cheap it is good insurance. Where did you get it changed and what fluid did they use. Your changing symptoms seems like a fluid breakdown as it gets worse quick. I just go to the Honda dealer. These cars are picky on fluid types, I wrench most my other jobs. Cheap insurance for an expensive transmission. I just rolled to 100K and the car drives like new. In my 2000 Toyota truck they always put a bottle of Lubegard in the transmission fluid, many transmission shops use this, it lowers temps and wear. My truck has 150K and drives like new.

Thanks for the reply. I did it with the independent mechanics for the last two times. First time at 62k which was 5 years ago, I don't remember what brand was used. Hope, it was Honda ATF. Second and last time which was 3 years ago, I bought Honda ATF and took it to the mechanic. That's when I started learning about the cars watching on youtube. I changed it today myself for the first time.

 

[mkhaderm]

On our Accord that's been driven enough to change the ATF a few times the MM told us to change ATF at 32k and 26k miles. That's the interval between the 3 ATF changes I've done.

The engine compartment lower cover is mostly for aero but also helps with engine warmup and protection of engine compartment. I did cut out a rectangular hole so that I could drain the ATF without removing it. Make sure you make the hole big enough so that when the ATF drains it clears the hole the entire time - towards the end of the drain the oil draining curves some towards the transmission case.

Thanks for the reply. I don't remember if MM showed anything related to transmission in the initial period around 30k or 60k in my car. Even up until now, I don't think I ever saw a reminder for the transmission fluid and coolant. I voluntarily changed it, as I was asking for a while then to my mechanic when we should change it ever since it was around 50k on every oil change and happened to change at 62k first time. I will see and try to cut an rectangle for the fluid to drop, that will be much easier to do it frequently. Thanks again for sharing it.

 

[mkhaderm]

The MM for a trans. fluid change usually comes up at 40K+ as reported by many members, but sometimes it can come up earlier based on driving, etc.(if driven in hilly terrain, congestion or towing, half the change interval). The 30K change interval is what many members have found that works best for them. 44,66,83,92% (approx.) newer fluid with ea. d/f, which will get mixed up with the old worn out fluid. Some members have had success with using Lubegard "shudder fix" added to the fluid during a change. Change the fluid 4 times with driving in-between (100 miles) as that will give you a baseline to start. Change the in-line filter on the last change 2011 Honda Accord 4 Door EX KA 5AT Parts - HondaPartsNow.com.

Thanks for the reply. The fluid, when it was draining today, I could see the reddishness from looking at it. But in the pan, It was very dark, if not pitch dark. So, I think, as you mentioned, I definitely have to do multiple times. I cleaned the magnet in drain plug, but I have never heard or seen in any of youtube video changing in-line filter. In fact, I didn't even know such thing exists. Thanks for bringing it up. I will look it up more about it and get back if any questions. Thanks again.

 

[mkhaderm]

Thank you all for the replies. Really appreciate it. I was postponing this for about 2 months, since I was feeling nervous to do it myself. At the same time, I didn't want to go to mechanic, as I thought that it will be opportunity to learn. Overall, my experience in doing it was fine except I did one blunder. A few clips of mud guard over passenger tire was sharing the same hole with the plastic guard that covered the transmission. When I removed that plastic cover while changing the fluid, the portion of the mud guard was hanging low without clips. Since I thought to drain and fill multiple times after seeing the fluid condition, I took it for a test drive after first attempt, but forgot to restore the mud guard with the clips. The low hanging mud guard somehow got caught on the tires and tore it apart in the force during the test drive. I realized only later after the damage was done. That was a loss. I have to find a mud guard and plastic transmission cover, as it looks worn out too and fix it. Otherwise, I am super happy that I was able to drain and fill and learned to do it myself. Lesson learned hard way to pay attention next time.

 

[KW2004Accord]

Thanks for the reply. The fluid, when it was draining today, I could see the reddishness from looking at it. But in the pan, It was very dark, if not pitch dark. So, I think, as you mentioned, I definitely have to do multiple times. I cleaned the magnet in drain plug, but I have never heard or seen in any of youtube video changing in-line filter. In fact, I didn't even know such thing exists. Thanks for bringing it up. I will look it up more about it and get back if any questions. Thanks again.

You want to go slow on the changes as to not dislodge to much crud at one time that could clog up the valve body (drive a week or more between ea. change). Post # 13 of this thread - https://www.driveaccord.net/threads...threads/the-best-write-up-on-how-to-change-transmission-fluid-and-filter.59495/

 

[mkhaderm]

The spec says the refill capacity is 2.6 quarts for this model. When we changed last time at 105k, the mechanic filled in 3 quarts and it was exactly on the top of the upper limit line on the dipstick at that time. When I did today, I drained 3.2 quarts. So, I had to refill the same amount 3.2 quarts to get the mark at upper limit line. Has anyone ever faced this problem before taking more quarts in during refill? Does that show that the fluid gets burnt in the transmission and lose its quantity over time? I have never seen it to be leaked. This is bothering me to know more. Appreciate if anyone could clarify. Thank you

 

[mkhaderm]

Thanks for the reply. The fluid, when it was draining today, I could see the reddishness from looking at it. But in the pan, It was very dark, if not pitch dark. So, I think, as you mentioned, I definitely have to do multiple times. I cleaned the magnet in drain plug, but I have never heard or seen in any of youtube video changing in-line filter. In fact, I didn't even know such thing exists. Thanks for bringing it up. I will look it up more about it and get back if any questions. Thanks again.

As I saw it dark in the first drain today, If I try to baseline at this point to a fresh liquid all the way, Would it not start slipping and fail altogether? Any thoughts on that? Would you expect the color of the drained fluid to be as close to a new liquid possible in red color, if we had done religiously every 30k miles? Is that why you say to baseline and start the frequency all over? Just checking for my knowledge.

 

[mkhaderm]

You want to go slow on the changes as to not dislodge to much crud at one time that could clog up the valve body (drive a week or more between ea. change). Post # 13 of this thread - https://www.driveaccord.net/threads...threads/the-best-write-up-on-how-to-change-transmission-fluid-and-filter.59495/

Ok. Sounds good. Thanks Is the in-line filter change a must, when I baseline again? Can I skip it? The gentleman in this youtube video says it is not maintenance item:

May I know why you think we need to change it?

 

[KW2004Accord]

The spec says the refill capacity is 2.6 quarts for this model. When we changed last time at 105k, the mechanic filled in 3 quarts and it was exactly on the top of the upper limit line on the dipstick at that time. When I did today, I drained 3.2 quarts. So, I had to refill the same amount 3.2 quarts to get the mark at upper limit line. Has anyone ever faced this problem before taking more quarts in during refill? Does that show that the fluid gets burnt in the transmission and lose its quantity over time? I have never seen it to be leaked. This is bothering me to know more. Appreciate if anyone could clarify. Thank you

My mechanic always put 3 qts. in for the refill. A little over doesn't matter. Heat is what degrades the fluid, some members install a trans. fluid cooler, others like myself use a syn. fluid. Once you finish the 3 or 4 d/f's that becomes your base line (all new fluid) then do 30K mile changes from there. The filter in the engine bay is a non-maintenance item as long as you followed the scheduled changes, but since your trans. is dirty and all the crud that is being dislodged, the filter will catch. When mine clogged up the trans. wouldn't downshift (filter in bypass starving trans. of fluid). 70K, 130K changes then the filter clogged.

 

[mkhaderm]

My mechanic always put 3 qts. in for the refill. A little over doesn't matter. Heat is what degrades the fluid, some members install a trans. fluid cooler, others like myself use a syn. fluid. Once you finish the 3 or 4 d/f's that becomes your base line (all new fluid) then do 30K mile changes from there. The filter in the engine bay is a non-maintenance item as long as you followed the scheduled changes, but since your trans. is dirty and all the crud that is being dislodged, the filter will catch. When mine clogged up the trans. wouldn't downshift (filter in bypass starving trans. of fluid). 70K, 130K changes then the filter clogged.

I see. Ok, Thanks. Can you share what synthetic fluid you use? Is Honda OEM ATF not a synthetic fluid, if you know by any chance? Since I am trying to do multiple times for reinstating the state for a baseline, Would you recommend to go with any third party synthetic fluid if you think that is better than Honda OEM ATF which you have seen working great at it? Sorry if I am bothering with lot of questions. Thanks again for your help

 

[mkhaderm]

My mechanic always put 3 qts. in for the refill. A little over doesn't matter. Heat is what degrades the fluid, some members install a trans. fluid cooler, others like myself use a syn. fluid. Once you finish the 3 or 4 d/f's that becomes your base line (all new fluid) then do 30K mile changes from there. The filter in the engine bay is a non-maintenance item as long as you followed the scheduled changes, but since your trans. is dirty and all the crud that is being dislodged, the filter will catch. When mine clogged up the trans. wouldn't downshift (filter in bypass starving trans. of fluid). 70K, 130K changes then the filter clogged.

Ok, I see. Thanks. I have not seen the downshift problem so far, if my understanding about it is correct. The RPMs for upshift and downshift seems to be linearly increasing and decreasing respectively from what I have seen. However, I will see if I can find a good video to learn how we can change it.

 

[KW2004Accord]

I see. Ok, Thanks. Can you share what synthetic fluid you use? Is Honda OEM ATF not a synthetic fluid, if you know by any chance? Since I am trying to do multiple times for reinstating the state for a baseline, Would you recommend to go with any third party synthetic fluid if you think that is better than Honda OEM ATF which you have seen working great at it? Sorry if I am bothering with lot of questions. Thanks again for your help

The great transmission fluid wars here on DA ! Use to be DW-1 was a semi-syn. in the USA, full syn. in Canada (that may of changed ?) It is what is recommended by Honda because of its viscosity for one thing. I have read that Honda stated DW-1 must be used in auto. transmissions from 2011 on if it is the required fluid because of the viscosity. On my 2004 it was recommended to use the old Honda Z-1 fluid because of the viscosity but later when DW-1 (different viscosity) came out they said it was now OK to use (marketing). Some here use the Valvoline Maxlife for Honda (think it is their multi fluid) syn. fluid (Walmart). I used Amsoil full synthetic (expensive). A syn. fluid will absorb more heat and will not become "thicker" in extremely cold weather. Read reviews on Amazon or BOBISTHEOILGUY.COM about the Valvoline fluid.

 

[KW2004Accord]

Ok, I see. Thanks. I have not seen the downshift problem so far, if my understanding about it is correct. The RPMs for upshift and downshift seems to be linearly increasing and decreasing respectively from what I have seen. However, I will see if I can find a good video to learn how we can change it.

Not to hard, tight space but you will need long handled needle nose pliers for the clamps and something to remove the filter holder bolt. Make sure you install it for correct flow direction, (the V6 has a different set-up).

 

[mkhaderm]

The great transmission fluid wars here on DA ! Use to be DW-1 was a semi-syn. in the USA, full syn. in Canada (that may of changed ?) It is what is recommended by Honda because of its viscosity for one thing. I have read that Honda stated DW-1 must be used in auto. transmissions from 2011 on if it is the required fluid because of the viscosity. On my 2004 it was recommended to use the old Honda Z-1 fluid because of the viscosity but later when DW-1 (different viscosity) came out they said it was now OK to use (marketing). Some here use the Valvoline Maxlife for Honda (think it is their multi fluid) syn. fluid (Walmart). I used Amsoil full synthetic (expensive). A syn. fluid will absorb more heat and will not become "thicker" in extremely cold weather.

Ok. Thanks for the info.
Volvoline ATF here says that It's approved to use except CVT:

MaxLife ATF - Valvoline™ Global Thailand - EN

Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF is a full synthetic formulation with advanced additives to prevent the major causes of transmission breakdown and help extend...

www.valvolineglobal.com

BTW, Is Amsoil approved for Honda DW-1 CVT? Since you are using full-synthentic, How frequently you change it? Will you go higher miles than 30k? If I think to follow you, Can I mix it with the current fluid and set the baseline in Amsoil? The three quarts for Honda OEM costs $32 here.