[Mr. White]

First of all, I have a 2005 AV6-6 Coupe with 104,000 miles on the original clutch and dual mass flywheel. It's usable service life has come to an end. I'm fortunate that I can still get myself moving enough to drive around town. After searching and searching while waiting for the money to pay for a new clutch replacement, I have decided on this. Clutch Masters FX200 Power Plus w/ Aluminum Flywheel
(found here)

The FX200 System uses the Power Plus I Pressure Plate and a Steel Backed Kevlar disc. This clutch is designed for the street enthusiast or weekend racer. The FX200 offers similar torque rating and holding capacity as the FX100, however, its life expectancy is increased with the Kevlar disc. Our Kevlar friction material is non-abrasive and doesn't score the mating surfaces. It features only slightly increased pedal pressure, significantly longer life than stock, and normal clutch feel during engagement and disengagement for the smoothest operation of any stage we offer. Minimum 500 Required break in miles. Please see The Technical guide for more details. *


Now,
Any reccomendations for Clutchmasters or info on a similar setup with a solid/lightweight flywheel?
-I have searched and got my info but there is a few years since the old posts so some of you may have gotten new clutches and facts.

I found this for $1,1250.00 for clutch + aluminum flywheel. This seems decently priced for the performance vs. longevity vs. stock-options. STOCK IS CRAP. Im not going OEM with another Dual Mass flywheel no thank you!
-Would any of you get this? OR have a better option?

I aim to purchase soon. Good idea or bad idea?

 

[jfuredy]

I'm confused why you are saying that stock is crap on one hand, and that your car went 104K miles on the OEM clutch on the other hand. To me, a clutch that can last more than 100K miles seems to be doing its job quite well.

I just recently replaced my clutch at about 120K, and my dual mass flywheel was fine. I replaced the clutch/pressure plate with an OEM Luk clutch kit for $164, and even if I needed a new DMF, I could have gotten one for $230. So for a third of the money that you're planning on spending, you can have a functionally equivalent setup that lasts you another 8-9 years. Are you SURE you really need to upgrade your clutch?

 

[Mr. White]

Stock clutch has caused some serious questions when my clutch pedal sticks to the floor and I can't shift into gear after WOT. This has caused panic one too many times. I've searched and searched about this and found that the pressure plate is the weak link. The DMF is fine if it is working properly but if one can remove a problem piece, why not?

Sure it drives for 104,000 miles but its been acting up for a while now. Based upon labor and size of the job, I would hate to put back another weak link after so much work and downtime.

Am I sure? Nah, that's why in fishing for some opinions and facts I may have not considered. Thanks jfuredy

 

[jfuredy]

For what it's worth, mine was doing the same "sticky" clutch pedal thing after high revs. The clutch was still holding fine, and there was still a little bit of life left in the clutch disc, but I was always afraid to go full tilt the way it was. Even though all it took was a couple of pumps of the clutch pedal to get the normal feel back. Everything has been great since I replaced it with stock parts, but I guess I won't know for another 100K miles if I made the right choice. Good luck with it whichever route you decide to go.

 

[Night]

jfuredy,
What website did you buy the Oem clutch from?
I got 107K on my 04 v6 coupe and gotta replace the clutch aswell

 

[jfuredy]

I got my complete Luk clutch kit from PartsGeek.com. When I did the search, the 3.0L V6 clutch was the first one in the list, but check the description to be sure you're getting the right kit. The $165 price is about what I paid for mine. It looked exactly like the parts that I pulled out of my car. Good luck with your project!

 

[Carlossantan90]

I would really like to know a good replacement clutch for our car. The sticky to the floor pedal just make me *^%**. That's is got no sense that a car like this got this kind
Of problem. I didn't search for one right now but my is going to be due in the next year so.

 

[07AccordEx-L]

I had the stage 3 and it grabbed like a mofo! You will like it, just make sure you break it in properly.

 

[ezshift5]

I had the stage 3 and it grabbed like a mofo! You will like it, just make sure you break it in properly.

Mofo - IMHO - would certainly describe the OEM clutch (thanks to the slave cylinder check valve).............

That being said, my factory original clutch feel at 130,000 miles has not changed since I drove it off the showroom floor.

I never have really liked the strange engagement point (SCCV induced), but can't really bitch about the longevity.

best, ez....

 

[Carnutz]

whats the weight difference between OEM and the one you mention for the flywheel..
The OEM dual mass FW is designed to absorb vibrations and regulate drop off rpms for smooth shifting.. A lighter FW will get you quicker acceleration.. but you pay for it with noise, vibration and uneven abrupt shifts..
I learned this from experience by getting too light of a FW for everyday use..
screwed up the car as a daily driver..

 

[dashline79]

On a side note, how are your motor mounts? Installing an aluminum flywheel is going to increase your vehicles vibration quite a bit. Some who install an aluminum flywheel end up disliking their car because of the increased vibration.

 

[Mr. White]

Bump

Haven't checked this post for a while thanks for all who responded.

1.carnutz- Lightweight flywheel - I understand the drivability concerns and daily driver sacrifice of too light. The Solid flywheel in the Street-oriented clutch kits seems heavy enough for daily use. I can't imagine a more "finicky" clutch than what Honda gave to us stock. I will post the weight difference when I do more exacting research.

2.dashline- I have upgraded Engine Mounts that are rigid and stiff. Innovative Mounts FYI. I have plenty of vibration at low RPMs (like idle) but on the road and under load I can't tell a difference. Unless the clutch chatters ( possible with a stage 4,5 or race clutch) I think the vibration won't be noticeable when driving mildly. My clutch is chattering and slipping right now so anything new will probably feel relieving.

Carlossantan90- I'm looking for the best replacement clutch as well! Stay tuned. If we wanted OEM the we wouldn't be on this thread.

*yesterday I used more throttle than I have in the last 2 months. Now I can flare in 1st gear! Ugh... My 0-60 right now is about 9.8 seconds and that's with substantial throttle lag to feather the slip point. I'm guessing my clutch can hold about 125lb/ft tq before slipping. I haven't heard my VTEC crack since December