Honda Accord Forums - The DriveAccord community is where Honda Accord 2003+ owners can discuss reviews, service, parts, and share mods. banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

JamieJam1AIM

· 8th Gen Audio Expert
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Reaction score
1
Location
South Fla.
Discussion starter · #1 ·
MOD's If you like you may want to make a sticky of this as it is 8th gen Specific and can save a million search hours on the threads...




well you got the Accord and now you want to upgrade the audio cause yea it lacks a little in areas!

Heres your options.. what you can do:
add an eq.
modify the system to add an amp ****WITHOUT**** having to get an:
* Bit One
* ms8
*lc6i
*clean sweep
*RF 360.2

so here we go....

since you have an ex or exl with Premium sound you have a sub (8") in the rear.. this means you also have an external amp which is located to the far right behind the glove box.
It is possible and simplistic to bypass the amp and make it a full balanced low line signal without a processor.... The Outputs from the radio are a differential balanced low level output. thus you need not Necessarily use a line driver unless you want to ....
This can be acomplished by adapting rca's to both sides of the wires between the radio and amp. from there you can add an equalizer, a bit one ar even the ms8 if you like..
The beauty in that concept it now you can trim frequencies or add them to tailor the sound to your own tastes!

below tells you more in detail!


you have the premium system with the sub already there.. Theres a few different ways you can go.
If you plan to upgrade your system for a more mild system simple upgrades, Id say plan on the front side for a full upgrade speakers amp small sub replacement in advance for later on. ( No sense in recreating the wheel later on)
Figure on purchasing a good 5 channel amplifier, seperates/ components for the front 6.5 coaxials for the rear. The next steps are the crucial points whereas this will save you time and room down the road. With this in mind, alot depends on who will be installing your system.. there are ways to make your system perform a million times better based on specific specifications but you either need to be proficient in soldering wires or have a VERY competent shop do it for you.. the leads from the radio can be directly adapted to RCA before it reached the factory amp.. they are the greens and reds on the molex plug of the amp. The greys are balanced and wont be used in this case. That is a very clean signal and is the same way I set mine up ( Mind you I compete in Sound quality and as of last week, the #1 amateur car in North America So I know this works!) If you solder the leads from the amp you will have 5 discrete channels of clean audio.with nearly 4 volts per channel, Clean! The front stage seperates the mids and tweets with crossovers the driver's side one is behind the radio. if you run new speaker leads to the doors you can eliminate dismantling the radio from the dash and all the take apart. by adding the rca ends, this will also allow you to add an equalizer to the car should you opt to, and fine tune your system to your own accoustical tastes .. some people like brighter audio some like more midbass.. etc.. either way this is the easiest way to do it...
I would say pre- plan by having the ends soldered male on one side female on the other later on when you sell or trade the car, all you have to do is reconnect the two and the OEM amp is back in play.. , By adding a QUALITY 5 channel amp, run the wires you need, add the Speakers and then as you go, add the rear deck speakers ( 6.5's and then you have the 5th channel to replace the 8" sub on the rear deck.. Now as far as the sub, its a crappy quality from Pio---- but it fires in IB or infinite baffle.. 90 % of the subs on the market do not perform well in IB. I have found one that impressed me in a major way and it cost about 150.00 by Image Dynamics in California do some research on IB subs and find one that suits you. in "ID's case, they are high end but are also high performance as well... a single 8" with a " real" amp will compliment your new set up very well and give you that clean sound you are looking for....

for the more advanced listener who wants to pound the neighbors into deafness and annoy the people in traffic.. You can follow the same steps too aand then add line driver like the Audio Control Matrix, a processor, or whatever equalizer you wish to go to. Ultimately you can tailor your system to you presonal budget and needs..

Due to my limited membership I am unable to post pics so I recommend looking up the thread in the audio seciton by Jay Knight. http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19987
There are pics there of the wire diagram of the molex plug and you will have a really good idea of what needs soldering... that thread was the original audio thread for the 8th gen and it continues to evolve as we learn more every day about this model! :)

Heres the Kicker! The data I provided above is not contained in that thread but this thread can save you money time in the long run on un needed line drivers processors and high low adapters...

Unfortunately for those with the non premium level system you will still need to go the other route with units like the LC6i from audio control or the MS8 in order to get low level balanced signal... or the good old noisy Hi-Low Adapters from Audio Pipe or radio Shack...

Hope this helps..
 
Hey JamieJam good to see this clarification if nothing more than to shorten the read for most people on the reference thread, since in my humble opinion, there is way too much needless chatter and a few contradictions.

You mention the grays are balanced and not used. Please clarify something for me since it is NOT clarified in the reference post. That is the differential balanced inputs to the factory pioneer amp and the importance of having an amplifier that can handle this type of input if you intend to bypass the factory unit- most amps do not have this. This is were the confusion from the reference post just mucks up the referenced thread that bounces all over the place.

If you are tapping the reds and greens are you tapping a standard RCA level input that can be ran to ANY amplifier or are you tapping a differential level RCA that only select amps can handle. If you don't have a differential input amp then you MUST use the matrix or equivalent product to convert - and add other nice features - before it hits your amp or you will short the head unit. Which one is it?

Did you replace the OEM IB sub or just pull everything from the deck and use "real" sub or subs in the trunk and let the holes for the factory rears and factory sub help eliminate deck rattle and relieve some pressure that a single or dual sub might incur?
 
Very awesome. Thank you JamieJam1AIM!! Sticky please!
 
It appears image dynamics is out of business. :thumbsdow Bummer. You can still get the 8" ID3 off ebay....
 
Interesting... I am curious, Ive got premium audio with nav. Personally I find the sub to be very weak, and the fact that it gets Turned down if you will after a certain volume level to protect the speaker is annoying.

Question is? IS there a way to simply modify the sub output so I could run a seperate amp for the sub and still have the radio control the sub output in the menu's? and is the Turn down or whatever feater created from the amp or is that in the head unit?

Essentially I want to add better sub/amp and would prefer the SUB control in the stock head unit run it.... However if the TURN volume down is coming from HU then Im opting towards pulling the low signals out of the regular outputs and just using the BASS Setting to raise/lower the levels..

Trying to get away on the cheap as I have NOS PPI art series amps I was planning on using for this. Going old school..
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Hey JamieJam good to see this clarification if nothing more than to shorten the read for most people on the reference thread, since in my humble opinion, there is way too much needless chatter and a few contradictions.

You mention the grays are balanced and not used. Please clarify something for me since it is NOT clarified in the reference post. That is the differential balanced inputs to the factory pioneer amp and the importance of having an amplifier that can handle this type of input if you intend to bypass the factory unit- most amps do not have this. This is were the confusion from the reference post just mucks up the referenced thread that bounces all over the place.

If you are tapping the reds and greens are you tapping a standard RCA level input that can be ran to ANY amplifier or are you tapping a differential level RCA that only select amps can handle. If you don't have a differential input amp then you MUST use the matrix or equivalent product to convert - and add other nice features - before it hits your amp or you will short the head unit. Which one is it?

Did you replace the OEM IB sub or just pull everything from the deck and use "real" sub or subs in the trunk and let the holes for the factory rears and factory sub help eliminate deck rattle and relieve some pressure that a single or dual sub might incur?
OK im going to post here and post it back in the original thread.. It is a "Differential Balanced out going to the OEM Amp so the matrix or line driver is not a necessity..I changed out everything in my system for competition purposes but I put as per my post for those who wish to do a more simplistic system upgrade.... Hope this helps!~
 
It appears image dynamics is out of business. :thumbsdow Bummer. You can still get the 8" ID3 off ebay....
They arent out of business there was an issue with eric the owner and a partner he had ID is still around and can be purchased with full warranties.. google them and you can find the subs and midranges! :)

Interesting... I am curious, Ive got premium audio with nav. Personally I find the sub to be very weak, and the fact that it gets Turned down if you will after a certain volume level to protect the speaker is annoying.

Question is? IS there a way to simply modify the sub output so I could run a seperate amp for the sub and still have the radio control the sub output in the menu's? and is the Turn down or whatever feater created from the amp or is that in the head unit?

Essentially I want to add better sub/amp and would prefer the SUB control in the stock head unit run it.... However if the TURN volume down is coming from HU then Im opting towards pulling the low signals out of the regular outputs and just using the BASS Setting to raise/lower the levels..

Trying to get away on the cheap as I have NOS PPI art series amps I was planning on using for this. Going old school..

ABsolutely just follow the same steps but only utilize the sub channel and rca it to the new sub Amp.. Problem solved.. additionally youll have sub control at the head unit via your sound button when you raise and lower the sub channel by itself! :) remember the sub channel is a discrete channel just like aftermarket units so its a no brainer.. :)

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Y0LuRpaQaIB/p_236REQ/MTX-re-Q.html

Look at this product, if thats all you want to do it is the cheapest option.
just one more processor the dirties up the signal.. Ironically I never have an issue with bass dryup cause my system is loud enough before I ever cross that threshold.. max volume is never good cause our systems loose coontinuity and gain sound wave distortion at 36. hence where the roll off begins...
 
OK im going to post here and post it back in the original thread.. It is a "Differential Balanced out going to the OEM Amp so the matrix or line driver is not a necessity..I changed out everything in my system for competition purposes but I put as per my post for those who wish to do a more simplistic system upgrade.... Hope this helps!~
If i was not half a tard it might. But if its a differential balanced out going to the factory amp and you splice rca connection here you are sending a differential balanced out to your non factory amp and most common amps cant take that signal. ???

just one more processor the dirties up the signal.. Ironically I never have an issue with bass dryup cause my system is loud enough before I ever cross that threshold.. max volume is never good cause our systems loose coontinuity and gain sound wave distortion at 36. hence where the roll off begins...
Wow, I thought the roll off began much earlier. Have not turned my factory unit up much, only had the car a month now and the factory sounds so bad past 12 it makes me cringe.

They arent out of business there was an issue with eric the owner and a partner he had ID is still around and can be purchased with full warranties.. google them and you can find the subs and midranges! :)
There website seems to be dead, but i could indeed find the product on ebay.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
If i was not half a tard it might. But if its a differential balanced out going to the factory amp and you splice rca connection here you are sending a differential balanced out to your non factory amp and most common amps cant take that signal. ???
No Factory Amps can take it .. rest assured it works!:thmsup::thmsup::thmsup:
 
No Factory Amps can take it .. rest assured it works!:thmsup::thmsup::thmsup:
This is too funny, we dont communicate well. I know the Honda factory amp can take it but can my old school JBL amp take that differential signal input if I splice an RCA inline and feed it this signal directly?
Maybe I dont understand what a balanced input is and your reference to the gray wire that we dont need to worry about being. If we use the red and green wires any aftermarket amp can accept that signal.
 
Can you post pics on photobucket?
 
The PRE-AMP red (SUB+)and green(SUB-) wires are the ones i need to cut and solder female RCA heads on? From there i'm guessing i just wire everything as i normally would for an amp? So there would be no need of a line out converter. Can someone help clarify this?
 
is this the same procedure for the LX-s or is it not since the factory headunits are different...
 
sub RCAs spliced into rear speakers

I'm waiting on my Audiocontrol EQS and I am hoping that maybe that will clean up the signal. Until then I went ahead and wired my 500/1v2 and 10w7 and spliced into the rear deck speakers for the RCA. At first everything was amazing then when I got in my car to take a spin every so often there are these 2 loud booms and nothing in particular seems to cause them. This happens during music on my ipod or the radio whether I'm driving or not. Just randomly (Boom, Boom). I've read the 2 big articles from Jayknight and jamiejam over and over again and feel like I'm doing everything right, what is my problem? I read some stuff about adjusting the gain I'm trying that out, but is there some issue with splicing the RCA's off the rear deck speakers that is causing this? The automatic volume control is turned off and the stock sub has been disconnected. Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Did you disconnect the ANC mics?
 
I just installed one of them self contained 8" sub boxes in the trunk.

I set it to be at max with a cross over of 90hz.

It is rated at 120w, all is did is mount it behind the rear wheel well having the port facing up and the sub facing the opposite side.

Having kept the original rear speakers and the seats up with no additional opening for the sub, I find it a good booster for the small sub in the rear.

Before the rearview mirror would not shake at 15, now it does. :eek:)

The trunk being sealed really resonates with the inclosed sub.

The nice thing is I still have plenty of room in the trunk as it is tucked away and it can be connected right to the powered connections at the rear speakers. Thus no splicing, just run a powered connex to the box and connect to ground.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts